Code P 1682 ........





This does make sense. About a month ago, I started my 2008 up and it ran like crap, shuddering, felt like it was running on 3 cylinders, then the "reduced power" message came up. I shut it down. Was bumming about spending several thousand $......then I remembered what I'd read here about low voltage. So I removed the battery cables, thoroughly cleaned the cables and posts, restarted - voila!! Problem solved. Runs great. I've driven it about 5 times, for a total of 60 miles and it runs great. But I do still have an engine light. I borrowed a scan tool and it only has the one code. Questions:
1. will this code prevent it from passing TX state inspection?
2. assuming I fixed the problem, will it clear itself after xx number of ignition cycles?
Would put a tech II on the car to double check, but if the car passes is self tests 5 times during start ups, it should clear the code to shut the light off, and just store the code as happened in past event memory instead.
So dash light, your not going to pass smog, but as stated, if you solved the problem, then car should turn the light/problem off after 5 times the car is started/it runs is self tests instead. If you have started the car, run it, and the light is still on, you did not fix the entire problem.





Would put a tech II on the car to double check, but if the car passes is self tests 5 times during start ups, it should clear the code to shut the light off, and just store the code as happened in past event memory instead.
So dash light, your not going to pass smog, but as stated, if you solved the problem, then car should turn the light/problem off after 5 times the car is started/it runs is self tests instead. If you have started the car, run it, and the light is still on, you did not fix the entire problem.





The car goes through self tests every start up (two of them), and if a problem resolves it self in enough test, then the car will cancel the active DTC. Also, if the car does pass the self test and the code is still active, you can clear it with the Tech II as well.
As from there if still problem, you can either fix the problem, or just go in with a Hp tuner or EFI live to shut off the code from being re-acitaved if you need to get the car through smog, but don't have the time right away to fix the problem instead. Hence with the HP tuner method, you still have the problem, but is not going to throw a DTC to shut you down during a smog test.





The car goes through self tests every start up (two of them), and if a problem resolves it self in enough test, then the car will cancel the active DTC. Also, if the car does pass the self test and the code is still active, you can clear it with the Tech II as well.
As from there if still problem, you can either fix the problem, or just go in with a Hp tuner or EFI live to shut off the code from being re-acitaved if you need to get the car through smog, but don't have the time right away to fix the problem instead. Hence with the HP tuner method, you still have the problem, but is not going to throw a DTC to shut you down during a smog test.
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