When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
During an A/C repair the technician advised replacing the harmonic balancer on my 2006 Corvette,103K miles. The harmonic balancer was replaced before at @30kmiles. When I went to pick up the car, I asked if the bolt was replaced with a new bolt and was told no that the bolt could be reused according to the shop manual. I pitched a "Corvette Forum fit"so the service manager agreed to change the bolt at no cost to me. Is the bolt replacement part of the shop manual?
The OE bolt is termed a "torque to yield" bolt and is one-time use.
from the shop manual:
"The used crankshaft balancer bolt is used only during the first pass of the balancer installation procedure. Install a NEW crankshaft balancer bolt and tighten as described in the second, third and fourth passes of the balancer bolt tightening procedure.
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
While they do have a coating on the underside of the head to help with friction, and they are noted to be a torque to yield, I have serious doubts about tty bolts and reuse. When I did the rebuild on my LT1 I reused the head bolts and torqued to ... I don't honestly recall what spec, but whatever torque they used to call for on alum heads or whatever. I looked something up. They worked just fine for 80K miles and are still fine. I'd love to see the reasoning behind those things. I think it's a great way to sell bolts...
When I did my LS1 I put an ARP bolt on it and while it's a nice bolt, it's not $30 nice.
That's why a $4 OE GM bolt works fine, certainly better than reusing the old one.
It is not rocket science to torque a bolt to spec then turn another 135 degress or whatever it is.
ARP bolt solves a problem that doesn't exist. Nothing wrong with a GM bolt installed properly.
Not sure I agree here, the ARP bolt can be re-used and it's way easier to torque to a ft/lbs spec than to "turn another 135 degrees" when working within an engine compartment...
Not sure I agree here, the ARP bolt can be re-used and it's way easier to torque to a ft/lbs spec than to "turn another 135 degrees" when working within an engine compartment...
HUH?? Me thinks it seems logical that which ever method of tightening is used that the same amount (or very close) of rotation on the stick will still be needed, so close to the same amount of room in the engine compartment will be needed.....
HUH?? Me thinks it seems logical that which ever method of tightening is used that the same amount (or very close) of rotation on the stick will still be needed, so close to the same amount of room in the engine compartment will be needed.....
You have to keep track of how many degrees you have gone during each stroke. How do you want to do this? If you put a mark on the bolt, then you have to remove the socket after each stroke to check your progress. If using ARP bolt, just keep stroking until the wrench clicks. I have done this on engine stands and in the car. On the stand, I don't care since I can go in one stroke, but in the car, I prefer the ARP solution.
Last edited by RogerRamjet21; Apr 4, 2019 at 11:22 AM.
My balancer was redone in the past. Bolt came loose this past summer. Problem is not so much the bolt, but the crank/balancer that's not keyed or pinned. If the balancer starts to slip on the crank it will turn the bolt and then its just a matter of time. I used a powerbond balancer with a Earls/ARP bolt torqued to 240 foot lbs, with blue loctite, also pinned it, good luck!!
or you can do what I did. when doing an engine replacement ( 1973 Camaro early '90's ), after I installed
the H/B, I could not locate the installation bolt. told myself, I'll get a new one later.
yea...fast forward a week or so, when traveling down the freeway, after losing my power steering & watching the
temp rise to about 250°, pulled over to find the H/B had backed off. in doing so ( never did replace that bolt. ), it also took part of the crank snout with it. that did not leave much for my 'new" bolt to thread into. after that bolt backed twice more, I used some red lok-tite and sold the car!
don't worry, I graduated with honors from the school of hard knocks. I've plenty of these stories to toss around.
good thing is, I finally I have a decent ability to sort day to day stuff.
like steven wright said. " experience is something that you only get, just after you need it".
You have to keep track of how many degrees you have gone during each stroke. How do you want to do this? If you put a mark on the bolt, then you have to remove the socket after each stroke to check your progress. If using ARP bolt, just keep stroking until the wrench clicks. I have done this on engine stands and in the car. On the stand, I don't care since I can go in one stroke, but in the car, I prefer the ARP solution.
You seem to just confirm my thoughts. It seems that either way one will have to "stroke" the stick a certain amount to reach specs. Your description seems to suggest that one would actually need less space if they are re positioning the stick every 1/8 turn or so. I dunno.....being able to do it all in one stroke is somewhat of an advantage......but not sure how many people are gonna lose sleep over having to re position the stick a few times.......:
You seem to just confirm my thoughts. It seems that either way one will have to "stroke" the stick a certain amount to reach specs. Your description seems to suggest that one would actually need less space if they are re positioning the stick every 1/8 turn or so. I dunno.....being able to do it all in one stroke is somewhat of an advantage......but not sure how many people are gonna lose sleep over having to re position the stick a few times.......:
I'm glad you're happy with the torque to yield bolt, I am not. As I said, I PREFER the ARP solution, it's a preference thing, not a right or wrong thing, and you are certainly free to do it your way.
Balancer slip is the problem due it not being locked in with a key or pin, not bolt.
Not sure what problem you are referring to. The most commonly talked about C-6 balancer problem IS NOT the balancer slipping on the crank. The problem is the actual balancer components (outer ring & inner ring) coming "unglued" so-to-speak and then separating.......