Not sure if this is on the right thread, but I'm just trying to get advice from people on what my next few moves should be.
This is my current setup
2013 A6 Vette
Whipple SC Kit with stock 4" pulley
Killer bee intake
Had NW 102mm TB but i had to sell because it is not the boosted version and it snapped shut.
1 7/8 Longtube headers with 3" offroad x pipe
DSX E 85 flex fuel kit
Dual racetronix LPH 350 fuel kit and Bap
2.56 gearing
Stock Stall converter
Car made 629 @6500 RPM.
Car ran 10.89 @ 130. 1.7 60 Ft with a DA of 2200
Rear tires are 305/35R/19 Nitto 05R

I have around 10k to play with and am trying to make around 750whp on stock internals, but i dont know if the stock block will hold. I dont really care about 1/4 ET times. Just a good street car and hypothetical roll race car. Of all the guys i talk to, half say 750whp with E85 is fine, the other half say no. If not i was thinking around 700whp with 3.42 gearing. Is there any other recommedations you guys thing i should or shouldnt do? Meth kit, Ice box, head bolts, valve springs, rods, leave it as is. As long as yall are nice i dont really care what inputs people have. I've seen stock ls3 vettes making 770whp on a stock block but i mean every motor is different and i take that into consideration. I would rebuild the motor but i dont plan on making past 750. If it makes like 730 or whatever im not gonna push higher. If i want to go higher then i will rebuild it. This car will most likley only come out 2-3 tims a week and kept in a garage the rest of the time. Any help from anyone or even experiences is much appriciated.

 

You may do better in the forced induction section.

 

I would think with a cam and the addition of meth you could potentially get close to that. If it was my car I would refresh the bottom end, sell the whipple, and slap on a centiifugal and make 800+. I think a 700whp SBE car can hold up as long as you don’t rag on it every chance you get. It really is ALL in the tune.

 

I’m relatively new to the LS world but not new to the go fast world. Been a Mustang guy all my life but absolutely love my Vette. I’ve been in your shoes.... I know you’re thinking if I could only have 750ish whp then I’d be happy. Well, you’ve already got a fast street car, I’d bet you could beat almost every car you run up against on the street, most motorcycles too. The thing is, you’ll get to that 750 number and it’ll be fine for a little while but then you’ll want more. I agree that if you want that kind of mega power that the blower you have is not the right one, centrifugal or turbo would be the way to go. If it were my $10k to spend, I’d build the crap out of the bottom end, maybe stroker if that’s doable for this amount of money, do some head work and a blower cam. Upgrade the fuel system and turn that Whipple up. If this doesn’t give you what you’re after then pull the Whipple off, sell it and move on to a different blower or a turbo. Just my $.02.....

 

The stock bottom end will handle 700HP.
You are right at the edge of the maximum useful power for good street tires. Adding more will only make that expensive rubber turn into smoke. On our cars, right around 600 HP is the traction cut-off point.
If you want better ET's at the track, I'd change the convertor. Increasing the stall speed should lower your 60" times, assuming you have the traction. If you change the convertor, buy it from someone who is going to ask you about a hundred questions about the car and the setup. Everything matters when you are choosing a convertor.
I would upgrade the valve springs and rockers, and install a cam meant for a supercharged application. LS motors are incredibly responsive to camshaft changes, it's shocking what a difference the right cam selection makes.
If you add more power and drive it hard, you will likely tax the capability of the stock cooling system, so a better radiator may be needed.

Think about what Boostedsvt said about wishing for more power... because he's dead on. Sometimes we only think we want more, but more isn't always better.

Best of luck to you whichever way you go.

 

Being that the unit is sized to that of a TVS-2900, have more than enough boost to get you where you want to go.

The glitch will be that if you pushing for 750hp (around 830HP at the crank) that a lot of boost that the stock pistons and piston rods are just not gong to hold up to that much pressure long. Also, your talking about the same amount of torque to the drive line as well from just off idle (Roots blower creates linear pike torque just off idle) and the stock drive line is not going to hold up to that much torque on launches as well. Hence with roots type blowers, tend to keep the HP down to around 650 on stock motors to keep the engine safe. By safe, I road course race, so motor will see a lot of time on boost during the laps. For strip type guys, have seen centrifugal units pushing over 750hp on stock motors, but these motor only see boost for a few seconds every few mins isntead.

E85 is kind of pushing it for cooling needs, so would be looking at adding in a meth kit to hold the air temps down with that kind of boost as the roots becomes a heat pump pushing that much pressure.

To bottom line it, with the power you want to make with the blower, would not do it on a stock motor. The oem crank can take 1Khp no problems, but that;s a lot of pressure on the oem pistons and piston rods to get you to the power level you want, they will not be up for the task long term instead (nor the drive line, much less street tires that are going to stayed glued to the road as well).

Truth is, before you go bulk wild on changing the motor in any way, would go into the tune to check what level TM is set to to start with. Hence you should already be able to blister the tires in any gear now if TM is not hobbling the motor, and would bank that the tune has TM on the heavy side to keep the tires glued now. So is not really more HP that you want, but to lower the level that TM is hobbling the motor to give you more power to the wheel instantly instead.

P.S, you show up at a road course track making over 800hp in a C6 (short of a even more moded T1 car and pro license), and no track in the world is going to allow you to run the car on it. Hence the T1 cars with a hell of lot of down force to allow them to keep the tires glued, are only making around 650hp to start with.

 

And to be clear, in my response, I was referring to crankshaft horsepower, not rear wheel HP. Dano's dead on, as usual.

 

I wouldn't take this car to the strip anymore once i pass 700. Too much strain. It would be mainly used for roll racing (NFZ of course!) But from the power and tall gears i have now i can hit it from 60Mph in 2nd and hook up no issues. I dont know what this stock tranny holds up to for power as well. Being 3rd to 4th is the weakest link in the 6L80. Even in the hypothetical red light to red light race i do, I dont slam it off the line. But the power is very easy to maintain with 2.56 gears and out of the year ive had the whipple, had no issues of spinning sideways. Very easy to ease into it and then hit it. I know 630 to 700 / 710ish is a bigish jump but i have nothing to compare it to in terms of racing. Not many people have a PD blower on an A6. To be safe i will probably stop around 700whp to see how it stacks up. Do you guys think i need to get a 102mmTB again or do you think the 90mm stock one will do just fine?

 

90mm TB will be fine for 700hp, and again, see how much TM you have in play now, since increasing the TM number will give you more instant HP and torque to the wheels now without having to add more power to the motor.

And trust me, if TM was turned off completely, the rear tires would break free in pretty much any gear under 100mph. Hence with 4" pulley, should be right about 600hp'ish, and which means that amount of torque just off idle as well.