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Not required but a really good idea to make sure your new tires are going to wear correctly. Alignments are also a good way to detect any issues that the suspension may have.
Small price to pay to get the most out of those tires. The alignment goes out so easily on these cars, why risk it? But as many have said, if your last set wore even, chances are this set will too.. (shrug)
I have had this discussion many times with many different people. The census of opinion is get the alignment when getting new tires. Small price to pay to get the most out of new tires.
Would recommend a shop that can apply the pdaft alignment specs on your car for street use (if you are in the I street drive it 90% of the time, occasional track category)
The stock C6 alignment tends to wear out the inner portion of the tires on the fronts.
Would recommend a shop that can apply the pdaft alignment specs on your car for street use (if you are in the I street drive it 90% of the time, occasional track category)
The stock C6 alignment tends to wear out the inner portion of the tires on the fronts.
That's because the alignment was done wrong. A stock c6 alignment set to dead center of the factory specs yields tremendous handling and great even tire wear. I am on my 3rd c6 and never a wear problem on a tire. The problem with the factory settings is the tech doing the alignment, not the specs themselves! Like This
The factorry alginment specs allow for more toe in than the pdaft specs, a little bit more toe in and the negative camber (as much as -1 degrees) is more than enough to produce uneven wear on the inner front where you will have half the life of most manufacturer specifications.Combined for most alignment techs to just get it in the "green" for manufacturer settings rather than think of ideal settings vs consequences and you have a recipe for inner tire wear across more than a statistical anomaly would account for.
factory specs
front
camber -0.45 +/- 0.60 (+0.15 .. -1.05)
caster 7.90 +/- 0.60 ( 7.30 .. 8.50)
toe in 0.20 +/- 0.20 total ( 0.00 .. 0.40)
rear
camber -0.45 +/- 0.50 (-0.05 .. -0.95)
toe in 0.00 +/- 0.20 total (-0.20 .. +0.20)
So you have 1 tech at a GM doing fairly decent work to get it close to right?
The reason pdaft exists (who's done more extensive testing than just 3 vettes) and the complaints on this forum alone across 05-13 tend to indicate that the factory specs are not quite as robust as your experience would indicate.
I purchased my 2011 GS when it was new. When the car had 13,000 miles on it, the original tires were wore out.
During this period of time, I had never hit any large pot holes in the road that could effect the alignment.
Prior to replacing the tires, I had the alignment checked, and it was waaaaaay out of align specs (both front and rear) ... No wonder the tires only lasted 13,000 miles.
I wanted to make sure that the tires now last a long time, so I had the alignment set to the following:
_____________________________
Note: The more negative Camber you have, the more it will wear out the inside tread of the tires ... (performance alignment Camber specs calls for lots of negative Camber = lots of tire wear)
Note: The more negative or positive Toe you have, the faster the tires will wear overall (ideal would be 0.0° Toe)
.
Last edited by Turbo6TA; May 14, 2019 at 11:44 AM.
I dunno about PFADT vs. center of factory, but know I had mine done to PFADT street 90k ago and it still wears tires very nicely. If your alignment "keeps going out" you have some other issue.
The factorry alginment specs allow for more toe in than the pdaft specs, a little bit more toe in and the negative camber (as much as -1 degrees) is more than enough to produce uneven wear on the inner front where you will have half the life of most manufacturer specifications.Combined for most alignment techs to just get it in the "green" for manufacturer settings rather than think of ideal settings vs consequences and you have a recipe for inner tire wear across more than a statistical anomaly would account for.
factory specs
front
camber -0.45 +/- 0.60 (+0.15 .. -1.05)
caster 7.90 +/- 0.60 ( 7.30 .. 8.50)
toe in 0.20 +/- 0.20 total ( 0.00 .. 0.40)
rear
camber -0.45 +/- 0.50 (-0.05 .. -0.95)
toe in 0.00 +/- 0.20 total (-0.20 .. +0.20)
So you have 1 tech at a GM doing fairly decent work to get it close to right?
The reason pdaft exists (who's done more extensive testing than just 3 vettes) and the complaints on this forum alone across 05-13 tend to indicate that the factory specs are not quite as robust as your experience would indicate.
So whats your point. You can throw out all your numbers and explanations why because setting the factory specs to dead center reveals the correct numbers for proper tire wear. I really don't know why everyone overthinks this and Pdfat this and that. Set the thing dead center and you need nothing else. BTW I think GM tested a little more than 3 vettes also.
Set your front Camber at -1.05° and the Toe at +0.40° (all within OEM specs) ... and you will eat up those front tires in less than 12,000 miles
THIS.
GM specs are NOT the most ideal and if you follow the thought process of most alignment techs, getting it within spec doesn't mean jack alk as Turbo6ta has pointed out as well. You are taking this way too personally. I've had the gm specs for 2 of my vettes across 6 sets of tires. The last 2 sets laster longest with the tighter padft street performance specs which are ALSO within gm spec, but narrow the range to ensure tire wear and contact patch according to your driving style.
You aren't being constructive when you say just center it within gm specs. We are providing a proven combination to ensure ideal tire wear for other members, not anything crazy that requires anything more than showing a printed sheet to the tech doing the alignment
Exacty my point. When you set them dead center there is no guessing or numbers you have to plug in (aka Pdfat).
Yup .... and again, if you want great tire wear ... Set the Front Camber to -0.5 degrees ... Set the Rear Camber to -0.3 degrees ... and get both Front and Rear Toe as close to 0.0 degrees as you can
Yup .... and again, if you want great tire wear ... Set the Front Camber to -0.5 degrees ... Set the Rear Camber to -0.3 degrees ... and get both Front and Rear Toe as close to 0.0 degrees as you can
Simple
Very much so, but alignment is the most overblown, overthought single item on here, other than tires.