Engine won’t crank
Thread Starter
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Engine won’t crank
My 2006 convertible won’t crank when the start button is pushed. Furthermore, prior to pushing the start button, everything works, I.e. the lights come on, the instrument panel lights up, the horn, works, and windows all operate. When the start button is pushed, the instrument panel goes totally blank except for the “engine trouble” Icon remains illuminated. Also all the light etc turn off. The battery is new and I even tried to jump start it in case the new battery was defective. The car did crank and start when the new battery was first installed, and this problem arose about a week later. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 14,555
Likes: 1,255
From: Saint Albans, WV
My 2006 convertible won’t crank when the start button is pushed. Furthermore, prior to pushing the start button, everything works, I.e. the lights come on, the instrument panel lights up, the horn, works, and windows all operate. When the start button is pushed, the instrument panel goes totally blank except for the “engine trouble” Icon remains illuminated. Also all the light etc turn off. The battery is new and I even tried to jump start it in case the new battery was defective. The car did crank and start when the new battery was first installed, and this problem arose about a week later. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 2,800
Likes: 565
From: Mesquite NV
First thing I'd do is have the new battery load tested to be safe. Beyond that, I agree with Narddog. Had the same exact symptoms you describe in the past, turned out to be a bad battery.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 16,557
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From: Peoria/Phoenix AZ
C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
This has been happening a lot more often as the cars age and the number of start cycles increase. If you can wiggle the battery cable near the starter, you'll know the bakelite is cracked/broken and you need a new solenoid. Most auto electric shops can replace the solenoid for around $30-40, if you remove and replace the starter. More if they do the R&R..Don't waste your money on a whole starter w/solenoid, especially at a dealer.Be sure to leave as much slack in the battery cable as possible, so the stress doesn't break the solenoid again, since that might be what happened during the recent battery swap.
Last edited by HOXXOH; Aug 21, 2019 at 01:25 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Houston The Republic of Texas
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Racer
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 313
Likes: 24
Same here, thought it might be a bad battery so I bought a new one, that didn’t work. So I go further down the rabbit hole...bad starter, bad solenoid, bad ground or cable, bad multi plug connections behind battery or under passenger floor board, possible alternator cable fault, I think there are several more electrical issues to be looked at that escape me at the moment (fuse panel relays) but I certainly will need to have those checked out as well.
In case I can’t troubleshoot and repair all this stuff who will do it and how much will it cost? I want to get it running so I can replace the wobbling harmonic balancer, leaking radiator, convertible top strain straps, and the traction control/abs system doc warnings before I install the new drilled brake rotors, Vararam, and dyno engine/trans tune. The car is absolutely mint except for the above listed gremlins and yes I do get in it in the driveway and remember the last time I was able to drive it
In case I can’t troubleshoot and repair all this stuff who will do it and how much will it cost? I want to get it running so I can replace the wobbling harmonic balancer, leaking radiator, convertible top strain straps, and the traction control/abs system doc warnings before I install the new drilled brake rotors, Vararam, and dyno engine/trans tune. The car is absolutely mint except for the above listed gremlins and yes I do get in it in the driveway and remember the last time I was able to drive it
Last edited by new 2 me; Dec 28, 2019 at 07:58 PM.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 313
Likes: 24
I had the one year old battery the car came with tested at a battery and starter shop I have been dealing with for forty years, they told me it was good no evidence of a dead cell and they put a load test circuit on it telling me the battery had 85% life left. I use a Deltran battery tender rated 1.25amp charge and .75amp maintainer, the battery “green lights” (full charge) in a reasonable amount of time.
But with a lot of info on how needy C6 electrical systems can be I bought a new Delco 85 series battery, it’s manufacturing build date code pre-dated my purchase by two months so its a fresh battery. Put it on the battery tender overnight it green lighted by morning and I think the dcv was apprx 13.2. Installed it, tried to start it but no dice, dash goes black for 4 seconds before returning to normal. I realize new batteries can be bad so I’m going to jump it with my truck (which doesn’t have a hint of electrical problems), and go from there.
If it starts with the jump then I’ve had two bad batteries one new and one a year old, if it doesn’t start I’m inclined to believe it’s a car problem. Yes the battery posts are clean and the cable terminals too.
But with a lot of info on how needy C6 electrical systems can be I bought a new Delco 85 series battery, it’s manufacturing build date code pre-dated my purchase by two months so its a fresh battery. Put it on the battery tender overnight it green lighted by morning and I think the dcv was apprx 13.2. Installed it, tried to start it but no dice, dash goes black for 4 seconds before returning to normal. I realize new batteries can be bad so I’m going to jump it with my truck (which doesn’t have a hint of electrical problems), and go from there.
If it starts with the jump then I’ve had two bad batteries one new and one a year old, if it doesn’t start I’m inclined to believe it’s a car problem. Yes the battery posts are clean and the cable terminals too.
Last edited by new 2 me; Dec 29, 2019 at 10:07 AM.
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2020
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Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,461
Likes: 1,149
From: Wayne Township WI
Must get underneath to visually inspect starter/solenoid. Do yourself a favor, use a lift.
With a flashlight locate S/S on pass side, use a pliers to grasp each power line giving 'em a slight tug.
If attaching posts are burned/cracked there'll be much movement of wire/lug, want those connections to be tight & secure.
BEST to disconnect battery, BTW.
IF pliers are accidentally grounded you'll have much bigger & expensive problems to deal with.
Be careful.
With a flashlight locate S/S on pass side, use a pliers to grasp each power line giving 'em a slight tug.
If attaching posts are burned/cracked there'll be much movement of wire/lug, want those connections to be tight & secure.
BEST to disconnect battery, BTW.
IF pliers are accidentally grounded you'll have much bigger & expensive problems to deal with.
Be careful.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 392
From: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
Must get underneath to visually inspect starter/solenoid. Do yourself a favor, use a lift.
With a flashlight locate S/S on pass side, use a pliers to grasp each power line giving 'em a slight tug.
If attaching posts are burned/cracked there'll be much movement of wire/lug, want those connections to be tight & secure.
BEST to disconnect battery, BTW.
IF pliers are accidentally grounded you'll have much bigger & expensive problems to deal with.
Be careful.
With a flashlight locate S/S on pass side, use a pliers to grasp each power line giving 'em a slight tug.
If attaching posts are burned/cracked there'll be much movement of wire/lug, want those connections to be tight & secure.
BEST to disconnect battery, BTW.
IF pliers are accidentally grounded you'll have much bigger & expensive problems to deal with.
Be careful.
1) Can you put the car in "accessory mode"?
2) Do you hear a "click" from the starter when you try to start it?
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,187
Likes: 1,670
From: Long Island
Yea as stated before , a bad battery can kill a starter. When the battery voltage is low the starter draws more power (amps) .
To check most grounds = put on the headlights and try to start the car - if the headlights go out there is an electrical issue, Most likely a ground or power cable. Maybe even a bad battery. If nothing changes it's usually the starter.
If the headlights stay lit - Double check by putting 12volts to the S terminal on the starter and see if it cranks. If not it's bad.
To check most grounds = put on the headlights and try to start the car - if the headlights go out there is an electrical issue, Most likely a ground or power cable. Maybe even a bad battery. If nothing changes it's usually the starter.
If the headlights stay lit - Double check by putting 12volts to the S terminal on the starter and see if it cranks. If not it's bad.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Nov 1, 2020 at 05:15 PM.