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2005 Base electrical problem

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Old Aug 28, 2019 | 10:56 PM
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Default 2005 Base electrical problem

Evening all,

I’ve had this issue now four times, and don’t have a solid lead as to where it’s originating. The car is a 2005 base, manual coupe w/o Z51.

The first time this happened, the car was idling to warm up and I had walked back into the house when it shut off. The second time I was sitting in the car and it shut off. This time I was able to see that it did not stutter, nor did any lights illuminate on the dash. This was also at idle while warming up. The third and fourth times were earlier today, after the car had warmed up.

The third instance was on the freeway while heading home, and the car went directly from running to Acc mode, and all gauges went to zero but stayed lit. I came to a stop before restarting, but the car started again without issue. Not even ten minutes later, it happened again while stopped at a light, showing the same symptoms.

Two things of note:
1) I had replaced the ignition button with one from a newer C6, as mine was cracked and worn. The problem did not immediately occur after this swap.

2) Occasionally, but not regularly, the speedometer (only the speedometer) will cycle fully, as in the opening sequence, when letting the clutch out from a stop.

Sorry for the long read, but hopefully you guys can help because I don’t know where to start.

Thanks in advance.
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 05:28 AM
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I think I would put the old switch back in and see if the problem goes away.
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 10:43 AM
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That sounds like a flaky ground or bad connection on the bcm maybe.
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by door2416
I think I would put the old switch back in and see if the problem goes away.
I don't see how that would help. He had the problem, replaced the switch and still has the problem. Did I maybe miss something?
Could it have something to do with the proximity key? Battery in it getting low?
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by maverickmk
I don't see how that would help. He had the problem, replaced the switch and still has the problem. Did I maybe miss something?
Could it have something to do with the proximity key? Battery in it getting low?
I replaced the switch prior to the problem starting, though there was at least 1,500 miles of problem-free driving before the issue arose. It was more for appearance purposes than for functionality. I will also try replacing the key battery, though I haven't had any issues with range thus far.
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Huck19
I replaced the switch prior to the problem starting, though there was at least 1,500 miles of problem-free driving before the issue arose. It was more for appearance purposes than for functionality. I will also try replacing the key battery, though I haven't had any issues with range thus far.
Okay, I see. Sorry for not reading it that way.
Hopefully you get this worked out soon.
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Old Aug 29, 2019 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Huck19
I replaced the switch prior to the problem starting, though there was at least 1,500 miles of problem-free driving before the issue arose. It was more for appearance purposes than for functionality. I will also try replacing the key battery, though I haven't had any issues with range thus far.
Just put the fob in slot in the glove box. If it still does it there is nothing wrong with the fob/proximity/signal interrupt, etc.
Having said that, you can start the car, put the fob on the workbench, and drive away. The only issue will be when you try to shut it off. At that point the dash will say something like "hey, stupid, if I kill this thing you will have a long walk to get your fob".
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