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2006 C6 has been pretty flawless for 40K miles. Recently the FOB battery got weak and would not open the car. I tried to open using the hatch key and discovered nothing happens. Key turns the lock but hatch does not open. I realized in 13 years I never tested the hatch key. I finally found enough juice in the battery to get going.
Anyone have tips on where to start looking for the problem before I begin pulling the hatch area apart? I hate the thought that if the FOB or car battery dies I may have no way to get into the car.
When you turn the key is it easy, or do you turn until it feels like it stops?
If it feels like there is resistance, then I would say turn further and it will pop open. (sounds scary, but it really is harder to turn than folks realize). If it feels easy, then I would say your cable is not connected to the lock mechanism.
When you turn the key is it easy, or do you turn until it feels like it stops?
If it feels like there is resistance, then I would say turn further and it will pop open. (sounds scary, but it really is harder to turn than folks realize). If it feels easy, then I would say your cable is not connected to the lock mechanism.
This ^^^^^^^^^. Would also suggest some penetrating oil in the key way and working key back and forth until it turns all the way. If no resistance, cable off as owc6 says above.
This ^^^^^^^^^. Would also suggest some penetrating oil in the key way and working key back and forth until it turns all the way. If no resistance, cable off as owc6 says above.
Good suggestion.
It can get pretty gunked-up especially if thirteen years has gone by collecting crap up in the lock mech. and not even a key penetration to dislodge anything.
I'm assuming he is the original owner, so the key is most likely the one that is keyed to fit the car.
Yup, I am the original owner and picked it up at the museum. The key turns from 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock and springs back. I can feel resistance. But I even took pliers to give more leverage on the key and it didn't pop when pressing it at 3 o'clock. I did try and push down on the lid. The button pops the hatch fine.
weatherstripping might be holding it closed if the lid hasn't been opened in a great while. If that is the issue, be sure to lube the weathestripping once open.
St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20
MIne did the same thing. I used some wd-40 a few times, kept turning the key and it eventually worked. Took about a minute. Apparently the electrical contacts were dirty.
MIne did the same thing. I used some wd-40 a few times, kept turning the key and it eventually worked. Took about a minute. Apparently the electrical contacts were dirty.
How does the electrical contacts play into opening with the key? I thought the hatch key was mechanical pulling a cable to unlatch the hatch?
weatherstripping might be holding it closed if the lid hasn't been opened in a great while. If that is the issue, be sure to lube the weathestripping once open.
The hatch has been opened often. Just never had a reason in 14 years to use the key to open it.
I had to turn my key numerous times to finally get it to open the first time. Once it was open, I sprayed graphite into the key hole and worked it in with the key. I then covered the key hole with a small piece of tape to keep the dirt out. Seems to have worked pretty good because I just checked it, (first time actuated in about 8 months) and it opened very easy).
How does the electrical contacts play into opening with the key? I thought the hatch key was mechanical pulling a cable to unlatch the hatch?
Where did you spray the WD-40?
Logic says it must be a mechanical connection. The key is the last resort to open the driver's door or fuel door if the car battery is dead. And to do that, you need to be able to open the hatch in order to use the pull cables for the driver's door and fuel door. It's amazing how many folks never test to see if the key works, or if the pull cables work. The electrical contacts only come into play if you are trying to program fobs.
So we opened up the back area and discovered the hatch key cable is not connected to anything and has a tag on it saying Not Connected.
I am told that there should be a level on the hatch control module that the cable connected to but I do not see anything to connect it to.
I bought this car new and took Museum Delivery in Bowling Green. Car has never been in an accident and this area has never been opened up. I have to believe it came out of the factory this way.
Anyone has a picture of the way their hatch key cable attaches in their C6 Coupe?
theres supposed to be a plastic pull lever above that radio receiver on the right side of your picture. the little metal claw above it holds the plastic tab.
theres supposed to be a plastic pull lever above that radio receiver on the right side of your picture. the little metal claw above it holds the plastic tab.
I hate to be dense but can you circle for me the radio receiver and where the claw is? Clearly that plastic lever is missing and I am trying to figure out if I can hack something together.
theres supposed to be a plastic pull lever above that radio receiver on the right side of your picture. the little metal claw above it holds the plastic tab.
Is the piece circled in red the plastic pull lever my mechanism is missing? This looks like where the cable goes into.
I hate to be dense but can you circle for me the radio receiver and where the claw is? Clearly that plastic lever is missing and I am trying to figure out if I can hack something together.
Sorry, i just logged back in - aj and 4summers got it though. I honestly do not recomend taking apart that box - I did, it was a PAIN - I had to drill out a few aluminum crush bolts and the inside was quite complex. If you can see the tab itself though and its just slightly broken you might be able to glue/rivet somethign on to make it work.
Sorry, i just logged back in - aj and 4summers got it though. I honestly do not recomend taking apart that box - I did, it was a PAIN - I had to drill out a few aluminum crush bolts and the inside was quite complex. If you can see the tab itself though and its just slightly broken you might be able to glue/rivet somethign on to make it work.
Thanks Mike. It looks like the tab the box was defective from the factory with no sign of the pull tab in the slot on the box. I ordered this to replace it ...