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I wanted to share in detail the saga of replacing the transmission cable in my 2007 C6 automatic convertible. I read and watched videos extensively(as well as the forum) to do this as this is my first Corvette. I am a good mechanic so I wasn't worried about the project but rather the small details that I needed to know that make the Corvette unique. Tools for the project Trim removal tools
I watched the following videos to help me with the two things I wanted to do-remove the plastic retainer to prevent the auto trans stuck in park problem and to replace the automatic transmission cable.
Solving the auto transmission being stuck in part problem. In this case I simply cut the plastic retainer rather than tying it back with something.
Removing the automatic **** handle and the center console. This has to go down as one of the worst tasks I have ever had to do on any car(shifter ****). It is outrageous that GM designed the shifter in a way that you nearly break the shifter to remove the ****.
https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...nge-64200.html Installing the pucks into the slots was easy. I used the floor jack and started jacking the car up very slowly with the puck in the slot behind the driver side door. This essentially lifted up one whole side of the car. I placed the first jack under the front of the car on the crossmember behind the oil pan. Because the jack stands are not perfectly flat you have to find the right spot on the crossmember to place the jack. I spent time under the front of the car looking for the perfect spot to place it.
I then went to the passenger side of the car and did the same thing. Next was the rear of the car. I placed a piece of wood on top of the floor jack and jacked up the rear under the appropriate space. It easily lifted up the rear of the car. I then placed the jack stands in the appropriate place. Again finding a nice flat spot for the jack stands is a challenge. Frankly after I had the car jacked up I still never felt completely safe getting under it. I placed two cinder blocks on each side of the car where the jack puck would go for extra insurance. In addition, I left the floor jack under the rear of the car with just a little weight from the car on it. After all was said and done I was able to lift the car 14 inches into the air while on jack stands. I simply didn't feel comfortable jacking it any higher than that. I had two sets of jack stands-one Torin 3 ton and another Craftsman 3 ton. They were both new and the Craftsman 3 ton had a very poor build quality versus the Torin 3 ton. After this project was finished I bought another set of Torin 3 tons that have a pin for additional safety and some rubber caps for the jack stands.. [url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00026Z3E0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF 8&psc=1]
The video was very accurate when it came to removing the console. Once I had it removed I noticed that the four bolts that hold the shifter in had been removed. I thought right away that either the plastic bushings in the auto shifter cable had been replaced at one point or the cable itself had been replaced. Nevertheless I proceeded to cut the black plastic retainer with a small hacksaw to prevent the auto shifter lock in park problem from ever raising its ugly head.
Removing the shifter **** was hell. I watched every video and read every post about it and it still didnt help. It simply was stuck on. Removing the auto shift **** was the combination of twisting, pulling and turning with a assist from vice grips to get off. It was so difficult that at one point I thought I was going to have to give up on the project. But with a twist of the vice grips and turning it finally came off after about 45 minutes. Be warned-this is the toughest part of this whole project.
Removing the H-pipe
The H-pipe was easy. I have an excellent Milwaukee ratchet that made all of the difference. It removed the bolts like a hot knife through butter. The H-pipe is pretty lightweight. The only watch out is the back of the H-pipe is attached to the bottom of the car with a bolt/spring combo. Its not a problem but it is a bit tricky when reinstalling. I found it interesting the the exhaust doughnut that connects the H-pipe to the exhaust manifold was metal. I have always seen them made of a different material I cannot name. When reinstalling the H-pipe they kept falling out every time I went to attach the pipe. I finally put some Elmers glue on the exhaust manifold end of the doughnut and waited until it was tacky enough to stay in place long enough to get the pipe attached and the bolts started.
If you don't own a cordless ratchet I highly recommend Milwaukee's line of ratchets. This is the one I own:
I wore safety glasses as I knew as I removed each bolt some dirt would fall down. The Milwaukee ratchet made removing all the bolts a breeze.
Torque tube and the cable
After I removed the torque tube cover I saw the infamous torque tube. I say infamous because I have read all of the stories about the horror of these needing replacing or maintenance. I then began to fiddle with the auto cable getting ready to replace it and noticed that the cable looked relatively new. I bought a very bright headlamp and it really illuminated the bottom of the car ([url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014JUMTXM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF 8&psc=1]
). I popped the shifter end of the cable off and looked at the plastic grommet and saw it was clearly new. I then slid to the back of the car where the cable attached to the transmission and saw it was new as well. In fact it looked as new as the replacement cable I bought from the GM dealer. So it became clear to me that the four shifter bolts I saw that have been removed at some point were removed because the cable had been replaced. As a result I didn't not replace the cable.
I was actually happy as my arms were killing me along with my back. Having only 14 inches of lift from the jack stands was enough but it is very tiring being under the car even with a rug on the ground.
Reassembly
The only challenge I had with reassembly were tightening the back of the H-pipe to the muffler pipe. It just would not sit correctly and I could push it in enough. Finally I put a little CRC-56 on the pipe and all was well. Putting the console back was a breeze. I bought some special tools for disassembling the electrical connections and it was a big help during disassembly but was not needed during assembly. [url=https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BVL7LUY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF 8&psc=1]
*Do not buy a cable from the GM dealer. They only had a ten day return policy and I had bought the cable a month prior. I also paid $75 for the cable while I noticed other online vendors were selling it for less
*Get a cordless ratchet. It makes removing the exhaust and torque tube bolts seamless and fast.
*Take your time jacking up the car. Watch alot of videos and when you execute take your time and make 100% sure you are confident of your work before getting under the car.
*Have good lighting for your head and under the car. It is really dark where the cable sits along the torque tube.
*It took me about six hours to do all of this. Make sure you have the time to do it.
*The shift **** removal will be an awful experience. Despite videos and instructions it is still nearly impossible to do.
*As with all things mechanical have the proper tools. It makes all the difference in the world trust me. I hope my write up helps others with their trans cable replacement. Although I didn't have to replace the cable the work up to it is the bulk of what you will have to do.
Great job and great instructions. The one question I have, is why did you remove the shifter ****? You could simply just lift the leather boot as high as it goes around the ****. I have removed the shifter ****, and it is not an easy task. There is a knack to it for sure.
Great post! I agree the A-6 shifter is the worst design I have ever encountered. I have had it off several times and found if you lightly lube the attachment shaft with white grease it makes it much easer to remove it again if ever needed.
I too don't understand why you removed the A6 shifter **** ... removing the 4 shifter mount nuts, and the shifter just pulls straight out (after the cable is disconnected from the shifter)
Great write up. My question is what made you think you needed to replace the cable in the first place? Was it preventive maintenance or were you experiencing some shifting problems? I know someday I will have to do this fix on my 2011.
Don
My 2006 has over 100,000 miles, so this hibernation period, I will be replacing the shifter cable bushings on both ends. Hopefully, I won't break the cable at the shifter end, because I really don't want to replace the cable. Your instructions make it easier to accomplish, so I'm grateful that you posted such great instructions, in case one wants or needs to.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared)
2019 C6 of Year Winner (track prepared)
Originally Posted by Turbo6TA
I too don't understand why you removed the A6 shifter **** ... removing the 4 shifter mount nuts, and the shifter just pulls straight out (after the cable is disconnected from the shifter)
Actually, if you're only replacing the cable you don't have to touch anything inside the car.
I just replaced the cable in my friend's 2010 and with the tunnel plate out you can access everything from underneath.
Actually, if you're only replacing the cable you don't have to touch anything inside the car.
I just replaced the cable in my friend's 2010 and with the tunnel plate out you can access everything from underneath.
I removed the shifter **** because I wanted to. I wanted to see how difficult it was in an effort to learn. In addition I replaced the cable because there are so many instances of automatic C6 Corvettes having this problem. I enjoy working on the car so it wasn't a problem. I don't think I would just replace the bushings. If you got a high-mileage car I would just replace the cable.
2007 C6 automatic transmission cable replacement experience
