O2 sensor Codes
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Use a 12 volt test light if you have one...the pink wire ( pin D) is the 12 volt feed...when test light connected to a good ground the test light will light if you have 12 volts at D...now switch the test light clip to battery positive or pin D...when you touch the tip of the test light to Pin E (heater ground) the test light will either light key ON or if not it will flash or blink when the engine is running...Watch that video !!...I don’t have service info for your car so I don’t know if it’s grounded continuously or pulse width modulated by the engine computer...the computer closes the ground on and then (pulses it) off to maintain the heater at a certain temperature.
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Use a 12 volt test light if you have one...the pink wire ( pin D) is the 12 volt feed...when test light connected to a good ground the test light will light if you have 12 volts at D...now switch the test light clip to battery positive or pin D...when you touch the tip of the test light to Pin E (heater ground) the test light will either light key ON or if not it will flash or blink when the engine is running...Watch that video !!...I don’t have service info for your car so I don’t know if it’s grounded continuously or pulse width modulated by the engine computer...the computer closes the ground on and then (pulses it) off to maintain the heater at a certain temperature.
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2020
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From: New York
Moderator, Tech Contributor
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
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From: New York
Very odd. Like I mentioned before, it seems to only do this when the temps are below 45 (estimate). I’ve ran the car over the past few weeks after having this same issue and didn’t have any problems until today. Today was the first time starting it again below 45. Also, I don’t know if it matters, but there was a large amount of condensation from the exhaust that ended up on the ground. It soaked my garage floor.
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
If you have the FSM I would look to see if it is indeed a PWM ground...should the light be steady while running and the driver was stuck closed (always grounded) or the circuit wasn’t being grounded that may set all 4 DTC’s...in that case it may be a bad ECM !!
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From: Cape Coral, Florida
Very odd. Like I mentioned before, it seems to only do this when the temps are below 45 (estimate). I’ve ran the car over the past few weeks after having this same issue and didn’t have any problems until today. Today was the first time starting it again below 45. Also, I don’t know if it matters, but there was a large amount of condensation from the exhaust that ended up on the ground. It soaked my garage floor.
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From: New York
Okay, if this continues, I will probably look into an ECM to see if that might resolve the issue. I’ve checked all of the plugs and everything seems to be fine. It runs fine when the CEL pops for these as well, so it’s not noticeable in the car, however, it’s due for inspection and I can’t have any codes.
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Okay, if this continues, I will probably look into an ECM to see if that might resolve the issue. I’ve checked all of the plugs and everything seems to be fine. It runs fine when the CEL pops for these as well, so it’s not noticeable in the car, however, it’s due for inspection and I can’t have any codes.
Last edited by C5 Diag; Apr 12, 2020 at 07:55 PM.
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The only other thing I can think of is if you have a bad pin fitment at the fuse especially when it’s cold...you may be losing power instead of ground...pull the fuse out and see if you can see wear marks on each of the fuse blades...no marks mean that blade is not making a tight fit into the fusebox !!...to troubleshoot this I would hook up my scope to either of the fuse terminals and see if the 12 volt signal drops out while the car is running !!
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That may have been the problem !!...yes, try a small pick and see if you can tighten them up...I’ve heard of some melting a little solder on the fuse blades to make a tighter fit !!!
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From: New York
Moderator, Tech Contributor
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From: Cape Coral, Florida