When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Last year my 2005 C6 felt like I had a caliper sticking. Over the cooler months I replaced all calipers and the issue seemed to be resolved. Over the weekend, it returned. I’m beginning to suspect this only happens when the weather gets warmer. It as almost 90*. I parked the car at my destination for about 2 hours, and returned home that evening after the outside temp had returned cooler and experiences zero issues.
Does anyone have suggestions? Could it be the Control Module, the Modulator Valve or ???
Is it one of the front calipers that you thought was sticking and does it only happen in a cornering situation?Any active handling messages?Check both front wheel speed sensors and harness on both sides. Maybe apply a little dielectric grease in each connector.
Walk in the park that will not cost you any money, but your not going to like it since you need to pull the module to start with..
So module in hand, pull the module board cover off the main body.
Starting with the valve stems, hit them with electrical contact cleaner and some scotch brite to re-gleam the stems (knock the crud off)..
Note, there are o ring seals in the plastic pieces that the Valves run through, so make sure you are flushing out any crap that your knocking off the valve so it not building up on the seal.
Same goes for the solenoids body channels with spray cleaner, but just use Q=tips, not scotch brite in them to get the crap out of them..
Now using Silicone spray once you have the valve stems and bodies clean, give the insides of the solenoids a quick shot, give the cleaned valves a quick shot to lube both.
Also, when you go to put the control cover back on the body, very light coat of RTV on the rubber gasket to help the control body seal batter to the body to prevent the rusting build up coming back.
Once last thing and since you will be draining the ABS pump of fluid when you pull it, will need a Tech II to cycle the ABS pump when power flushing/Bleeding the brake lines again.
Walk in the park that will not cost you any money, but your not going to like it since you need to pull the module to start with..
So module in hand, pull the module board cover off the main body.
Starting with the valve stems, hit them with electrical contact cleaner and some scotch brite to re-gleam the stems (knock the crud off)..
Note, there are o ring seals in the plastic pieces that the Valves run through, so make sure you are flushing out any crap that your knocking off the valve so it not building up on the seal.
Same goes for the solenoids body channels with spray cleaner, but just use Q=tips, not scotch brite in them to get the crap out of them..
Now using Silicone spray once you have the valve stems and bodies clean, give the insides of the solenoids a quick shot, give the cleaned valves a quick shot to lube both.
Also, when you go to put the control cover back on the body, very light coat of RTV on the rubber gasket to help the control body seal batter to the body to prevent the rusting build up coming back.
Once last thing and since you will be draining the ABS pump of fluid when you pull it, will need a Tech II to cycle the ABS pump when power flushing/Bleeding the brake lines again.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
ABS question
