Raven65

Yeah, the vacuum line that attaches to the manifold is basically wide open (see pics above). It's a small line - 3/16 I.D. I believe - but yeah... wide open.

Alex A

If its only a small section thats bad I would just use a connector to not replace the whole line which sounds like a pain from reading previous comments

Raven65

Yep... I think that's the plan. I took another look at it yesterday and I think there's enough slack in the line to cut out the worst of it and splice it back together with a connector... but I think that is just delaying the inevitable. The whole line really needs to be replaced, but this will buy me some time at least.

Landru

Here I'd thought we were on the same freq re this.
Meant splice-in a patch, not replace entire line.
Doing the entire line's probably been done, tho' I don't know why save for damage.
Once off the engine line's not subject to deteriorating due to heat/cooling cycles as on engine.
The tube's run from engine to solenoid lasts.

Raven65

No, we're on the same wavelength. I cut the bad section out (about 3") and just spliced the line back together with one connector - and the NPP is now WORKING! I hear what you're saying about the line being ON the engine though... I'm sure that's what cooked it and caused it to fail. I think I'll splice in several more inches of new line and try to get it as far away from the engine as I can... that's a good idea. I can feel another burnt section up towards the manifold, but I can't see it, so I don't know how bad it is. Hopefully it'll hold out a while, because it will be a major PITA to replace that whole thing.

Wow... it's quiet now! TOO quiet. LOL! It'll be nice to have that option for interstate cruising,and not annoying the neighbors, etc. but I'm definitely going to get a Mild-to-wild switch for other times.

Landru

Electronic/electrical industry uses an expandable corrugated tube for containing wires.
IIRC C6 uses 'em in certain areas where chaffing may be an issue w/wire bundles.
Split on one side they'd pop right over a hose providing plenty of protection from heat.
Parts stores would stock these in electricals.

IF dried area as described does fail, you'll know where it is and what needs to be done.
As C6 goes knowing WTH 'it' is = 90% of the battle.

Raven65

I actually have some of that plastic wire conduit that would be the perfect size for that vacuum line. Is it safe to use that so close to the engine? Seems like it would melt pretty easily but I don't know.

Landru

Should be just fine, while it gets 'warm' it won't be hot enough to combust.
Idea's to provide some semblance of separation between hose & motor proper.
See what the melting point of the stuff is using a Bic, bet it'll take an open flame to melt it.

Raven65

Yeah, I'm not concerned about the general underhood temps, but if it it's actually touching the head - as it might as tight as it is in there - it might be hot enough to melt it. Not sure.

kingjaymes

same 12 GS but a vert.

where is the fuse and what size is it to replace?
thanks!

Raven65

It's the one on the lower right corner... and its a 10 amp (red).