Weak battery, and there's no logic to what will or won't work!
2005 corvette electronics dead .
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
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From: Vancouver
2005 corvette electronics dead .
2005 Corvette electronics not working car is dead with the exception s of headlights gas filling door works, with button on car dash .I was able to get into car with the emergency entrance procedure.
Nothing else works does not start no cluster no radio the interior lights work I cant even close the doors all the way because I think it need`s power to activate the mechanism car battery is good full charge connections are good fob batteries are good any ideas would be appreciated....
Nothing else works does not start no cluster no radio the interior lights work I cant even close the doors all the way because I think it need`s power to activate the mechanism car battery is good full charge connections are good fob batteries are good any ideas would be appreciated....
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From: Pittsburgh
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Sure sounds like a battery issue to me
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 120
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From: La Vernia, TX
St. Jude Donor '20-'21
New battery and then a battery tender. First thing I purchased was a battery tender when I bought my C6. Lots of research around these parts convinced me it was the way to go.
Last edited by Chuckham; Aug 9, 2020 at 04:11 PM.
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From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Exactly how old is the battery in your 2005 Corvette ?
Or, did you just purchase the car not long ago and don't have any idea as to how old the battery is ?
Or, did you just purchase the car not long ago and don't have any idea as to how old the battery is ?
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From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
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From: Eastern
. The money you save from not buying a load tester, use towards a good battery maintainer such as a Deltran Battery Tender Plus.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Vancouver
Just looked 2 -1/2 years old. I borrowed a neighbour`s load tester with a full charge it stayed in the green for 14 to 15 seconds also cleaned all the terminals good ,car still dead .....If I hook up a second battery on jumper cables would that make any would that tell me any thing ...
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From: SW Florida
2021 C6 of the Year Finalist - Modified
If you jump the battery with a known good battery, it should start as long as you have a good set of jumper cables.
After you get it started, you need to put a battery charger on it till it's fully charged ... If it won't hold a charge, replace your battery.
After you get it started, you need to put a battery charger on it till it's fully charged ... If it won't hold a charge, replace your battery.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Vancouver
2 good battery`s hooked up all connections clean good cables same nothing I know from working on this car it wasn`t going to be easy took the battery back out cleaned all connection beside and below battery tray hooked power from jumper cables with battery out moved and wiggled 4 plugs around on ECM I had them off last year for instrument cluster job a year ago so i think there clean . I will be looking at fuse box under the hood tomorrow with battery hooked up there is about 5 fuses that show no power I don`t know if there switched or not but the rest are all hot ? I will be taking the hole thing apart seems to me when they had that recall for the headlight they had to open this up and jump some bad connections ... .
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From: Wayne Township WI
At this point might as well get it in the air to check starter & solenoid.
Starter/solenoid go bad due to heat (like AZ) aggravated w/ headers, especially check connections to solenoid.
Solenoid posts are held by a bakelite material which cracks, can result in an open circuit.
USUALLY when this happens there's a complete loss of power; however, there may be variations like yours.
Have starter/solenoid connection thoroughly checked to confirm integrity of solenoid housing.
IF a DIY be damned sure to disconnect battery first, accidentally dead shorting brings great headaches.
G/L, please update w/ solution...or not.
Starter/solenoid go bad due to heat (like AZ) aggravated w/ headers, especially check connections to solenoid.
Solenoid posts are held by a bakelite material which cracks, can result in an open circuit.
USUALLY when this happens there's a complete loss of power; however, there may be variations like yours.
Have starter/solenoid connection thoroughly checked to confirm integrity of solenoid housing.
IF a DIY be damned sure to disconnect battery first, accidentally dead shorting brings great headaches.
G/L, please update w/ solution...or not.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2017
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From: Vancouver
Todays efforts inspected starter looks okay Ran another vehicle beside it, with it running 14 volts going to car with a good battery in the car
that rules out any doubt about bad battery inspected the fuse box under the hood nothing out of the ordinary nothing burnt changed relays around
same .Back to basics something not turning on in the car I'm not sure what the chain of command is for fob detection then signal to activate relay
for BCM or ECM something not getting turned possibly faulty computer which one is activated first I`m giving some thought on manually activating
the power train relay I will sleep on it ....cheers
that rules out any doubt about bad battery inspected the fuse box under the hood nothing out of the ordinary nothing burnt changed relays around
same .Back to basics something not turning on in the car I'm not sure what the chain of command is for fob detection then signal to activate relay
for BCM or ECM something not getting turned possibly faulty computer which one is activated first I`m giving some thought on manually activating
the power train relay I will sleep on it ....cheers
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2017
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From: Billings Montana. Out in the wild west
Check the main connectors to the fuse box under the floor board, I've seen where there can be issues with these from passengers pushing down to hard in this area with their feet. See attachment.
Last edited by madsonp; Aug 12, 2020 at 11:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 42
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From: Vancouver
I made a fusible test lead with a prob with half a fuse on the end end so I can remove the fuse from the panel and supply power remotely I did this on my Blazer with the ignition off and was
able to raise and lower the window I`m going to try this on the C6 on my window fuse so I can lower the window and close the door If it dont work them Im sure I have a grounding problem
able to raise and lower the window I`m going to try this on the C6 on my window fuse so I can lower the window and close the door If it dont work them Im sure I have a grounding problem