I had my 06' M6 raised up on rear jackstands for about an hour or so. Now, it will not go in reverse (locked out).. If i drive for about 30 mins it will finally shift in reverse, but the it's tuff..??? Trans fluid issue? I do not think i hit with reverse lockout solenoid, everything looks intact and it will eventually shift. When the car is off, it goes right in reverse with ease.. Thoughts?

 

Can you get into the reverse gate, but just not the last of upwards to get into reverse. If yes, then double check the T40 coupling bolt on the back side of the shiftier box, and even re index the shifter is needed. Hence guys will put an after market shifter the car, pull it to sell the car, and do not get the T40 bolts tight enough/shifter box indexed correctly, or just wear in the box, to cause shifter problems.


Also, if you can get into the gate, but not the last up, try to shift into first, then come back to reverse. If this helps, then time to do the ranger fluid flush on the clutch fluid.

Or, not allowing you to get into the gate to the right instead.
If this, than double check the reverse lockout solenoid wiring, since it's what is keeping you out of the far right gate line to begin with.

 

Hey Dano523 - Well put! It's "gated" but unable to go up! So, i'm thinking clutch fluid. Never had an issue until i had the tail end up in the air. I'll do some trouble shooting over the weekend. I appreciate your help!!

 

So you can get far enough over, and start to come up, but can not come up the last of the way to engage reverse?

If yes, then range method for clutch fluid flush to get the old fluid out, and new fluid in so the slave pushes the pressure plate fingers inwards more with pedal push, and double check the shift linkage to make sure its indexed correctly, and all the T40 bolts are 35ft lbs tight. Also, when you are looking at the shifter box for the two side t40 bolts, if the bushings are shot.dry rotting crack out for the side bolts, then replace them. You can order the poly bushings that will last a lot longer, but if push comes to shove, you can hit up a home depot to just pick up round grommets to replace them instead (they will oval out once installed).



As for re-indexing the shifter, make sure the trans is in neutral, then push the front lock pin to lock the shifter shaft in place. As for tighting bolts, I start with all 3 bolt loose, move the shifter box fore and aft until I have the coupling to trans shaft centered between the two, tighten down the box side bolts, then tighten up the coupling bolt, and don't forget to pull the front lock pin back up.

If you have say a new style MGW shifter in play, then get the shifter index plate to lock the shifter box shaft in place to index the shifter correctly instead. Granted that I can index the new shifters by feel without the index plate, but if this is your first rodeo with the new style shifters, get the index plate and use it.

Hence new MGW shifter boxes do not have a lock out pin on them, so you use the plate top right in the below photo to lock the shifter shaft in place first to install the box, then pull the index plate to install the **** shaft assembly after the box has been indexed to the car.

 

Wow - great information!! Just opened the fluid reservoir, and it looks like chocolate syrup.. I know where i'm starting!!! Range method tomorrow for sure. I'll post the results! Thanks!!!

 

Just do the pedal pushes the first fluid change now.
In about 3 days of driving, the fluid will be black again, but just drain the fluid and replace , without pedal pushes that time around, since driving alone will work as the pedal pushes. This is going to happen for a few weeks as the fluid turn dark less and less, with just fluid changes each week, then fluid will stay clean enough for a few months, with fluid changes every few months instead. Really, your going to use about a pint of fluid for the first month'ish, the what you have left in the bottle, should last you through the year. I bring this up, since as soon as the seal on the fluid bottle is removed, it start collecting mosture out of the air, so you don't want to keep a openned bottle of brake fluid for more that about a year.

As for brake fluid, should be powder flushed and replace every 2 year, but ranger method is not going to work for such, since you need to put a power bleeder on the system, to flush the old fluid out of the calibers, including using a Tech II to cycle the ABS valves and pump to get the old fluid out of the ABS unit as well. Hence brake tank oil fluid pulled, and replace with new fluid, power bleeder on the system to drive the fresh fluid to the ABS pump from and back, tech II to do automated bleed to cycle the ABS to get the fresh fluid through it, then full power bleed to push the fluid from after the ABS pump out the calibers, then one final pedal pump up/caliber cracks with powder bleeded on each of the calibers to get any air bubbles that may have collected on the seals, out of the system (so the brake pedal is rock solid).