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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 06:49 PM
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Hello folks,
I have a 2007 Z06 that completely died, it was a little sluggish at startup but now it completely died. No power at all. It is not a battery problem because I got a new one just in case. I install it and not even lights or chimes. Cant even open the doors unless I pop it from the trunk. Any ideas?
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 07:30 PM
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If that's got a new battery, the only other possibility is the connection to the car's electrical system. Check the battery connection.

Can you check the voltage that the new battery is putting out?
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Old Jan 1, 2021 | 05:20 AM
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Pop the engine fuse box, and take a voltage reading at the fuse box terminal to ground under the hood.

Hence ground off the battery goes to the frame rail in the back, and the positive goes to the starter solenoid, then wire off the solenoid to the fuse block.

So battery may be good, but positive power is not making it way to the either the starter, or to the engine fuse box to energize the module (loose nut or cracked off terminal), or bad ground to the chassis isntead.
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Old Jan 1, 2021 | 11:44 AM
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C6s are very finicky with batteries and also drain them very quickly. I would check the battery and connections first as even newer batteries can fail or be installed improperly.
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Old Jan 3, 2021 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Francisco G Orama
I have a 2007 Z06 that completely died, it was a little sluggish at startup but now it completely died. No power at all. It is not a battery problem because I got a new one just in case. I install it and not even lights or chimes. Cant even open the doors unless I pop it from the trunk. Any ideas?
Where you located?
Hot climate?
Headers?
Built/stock?

In hotter climates heat can cause solenoid/starter failures, and headers seem to accelerate problem,

Solenoid's made of Bakelite, stuff cracks w/ age & repeated heat cycles eventually falling apart.
Solenoid has a couple power posts mounted through Bakelite, when it cracks/fails power posts get way too loose/break causing total power loss, zero.

Solenoid/starter wires, its lugs/posts must be closely inspected using a flashlight & w/ insulated pliers gently tug on lines to insure they're secure.
Best/easiest way is on a lift, it's dark enough under there w/o laying on the back.
Best disconnect battery, accidentally short against something & the headache get expensive fast.

Last edited by Landru; Jan 3, 2021 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 06:16 AM
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The battery shows 12.7v. I should mention that when it had a sluggish starting I went to Autozone and they performed a charging test and determined that the starter was bad. You think the starter will cause a no power situation?
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Francisco G Orama
You think the starter will cause a no power situation?
Certainly could if as I'd said Bakelite holding power posts cracked/broke releasing post(s) it's an 'open' circuit w/ a complete loss of power.
Just check S/S & connections/wiring, report back results.
If all's well w/ 'em, we dig deeper.
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Old Jan 22, 2021 | 10:16 AM
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So it turned out to be the starter, replaced it with Powermaster and its working like a champ. Had to cut the main lead because the connector is different and stretch out the battery cable. Just charged the battery since it sat for about a month and its been about two weeks now with no issues. I am going to replace stock manifolds with Texas Speed long tubes next weekend and that should move the O2 sensor away from the starter since its a little too close for comfort.
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