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Sounds like you have a air leak such as a vacuum line disconnected. The line for the brake booster is big & would be a massive air leak. The manifold needs to sit down correctly on the cylinder heads, the reason for valley bolt change.
The ECU controls the idle speed & has a range to work in. If the leak is big it maybe out of range for the ECU.
As well the STFT & LTFT will add extra fuel if needed while you drive it. I'm sure the stock tune will be plenty safe even WOT, a good tune will have it running better everywhere & additional power.
I missed your thread as it is in the wrong section & I rarely visit this one.
jUST INSTALLED AND GOT IT RUNNING. But the idle is really high. Is that a tuning issue?
I had no issues with my installation, you may have a leak. A couple things come to mind:
And DTC codes? They may not have turned on the CEL.
Did you use the button head bolts in the valley? If not, the intake will not seat/seal.
Is the coolant crossover tube creating interference? It's the small tube near front of engine, bottom of valley and easily pushed out of the way. It's possible it is underneath the intake, preventing it from seating/sealing.
I had no issues with my installation, you may have a leak. A couple things come to mind:
And DTC codes? They may not have turned on the CEL.
Did you use the button head bolts in the valley? If not, the intake will not seat/seal.
Is the coolant crossover tube creating interference? It's the small tube near front of engine, bottom of valley and easily pushed out of the way. It's possible it is underneath the intake, preventing it from seating/sealing.
Did you drill out the MAP sensor hole?
No Codes. All vacuum lines look secure. Yes we drilled out the MAP sensor hole. Used the bolts supplied by FAST 102. It is at tuners and they said they will find and fix the issue. I will update when I learn the issue. Thanks
Tuner found no vacuum leaks, but did find an exhaust leak. He performed a street tune because the dyno was in use and I needed my car. It feels faster, but who knows. I'll be taking it back for the dyno next week. My next question is how to dress up the engine bay since the covers no longer fit very well.
How did you get the covers to fit so well? Are they aftermarket or did you modify them?
They are Holley Coil Covers made out of ABS that look like the old Mark IV Big Block valve covers. They required a lot of trimming to fit, especially around the Alternator. The letters are Acrylic that normally fit in the recess of the factory Fuel Rail Covers. Here is some pics from start to finish, I used the same paint from when I converted to widebody:
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