About to tackle replacing the HB and noticed in a couple of threads that a Chrysler puller is what's needed for removal. What do I ask for at the local parts store?? Also, I assume that the installation tool is probably a variety of threaded rods with nuts and if not does anybody know the diameter and thread pitch if I need to know that? Lastly, I believe the crank is not keyed so that would tell me there is no particular location of the balancer. Thanks!!!

 

You want the OTC-6667 for the balancer puller.
Do not use the old bolt to install the new balancer, use one of the installer tools.

Gary

 

Something like this:
https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tool...eVehicle=false

Here is misc notes i compiled before doing mine:

BALANCER SWAP:

Need: balancer, seal (12585673, 296-02, nat/timken 100470 $11), PS fluid, ATI balancer 917246?
flexplate lock tool if automatic ($25 Ebay), balancer installer (16mm stud $15 eBay), LOANER: Advance Auto balancer kit (has Chrysler puller and installer with bearing and carnk point protector) new crank bolt, new tensioners, new belts, LOANER: 250LB torque wrench. Google "A&A supercharger instructions" for pics.
lock steering wheel with a strap to the brake pedal, easier to remove rack lines if you pull PS pump loose
disconnect battery, remove sway bar, remove tie rods (jack under for pressure if shafts turn), remove starter (loosen cat or manifold to get to drop out, install flexplate lock
maybe lower cradle about 1/2" to help get lines loose (4 bolts), remove lower shock bols to do thi... but may not need to if only pushing rack over partially, scribe balancer location
make sure PS line o-rings didnt get lost before reinstalling them. RADIATOR FAN: 2 bolts, 10mm, driver top, pass bottom, unhook connector before removing.
remove abs bracket 13mm bolts ( and other two if needed to remove racket from car...dont lose and notice ther are "flats on verticle" on bolts for reassembly) and push out of way to get to 2 18mm lines, zip tie baggies to hold fluid, CAREFUL unplugging rack connector, remove bolt on steering gear and remove from rack (11mm?), pry rack from mounts (notice washer sequence), roll rack out to passenger side enough to get to balancer maybe slightly spread frame brackets with bolts and washers for easier reassembly (CAREFUL - ALUMINUM),
heat or torch to break RTV from crann bolt. Loosen with long cheater bar, Chrysler puller protecting end of crank, replace seal
boil crank 20 min and quickly put on with threaded installer, tighten with old bolt 240 LB then with new bolt. Grease bolts and washers on install
NEW: Tie off steering wheel, Before pulling..check crank nose to HB measurement. Notch PS resivoir holes to aid in reassembly, grease new bolt threads/washer
sequence rack washers with grease on reinstall into frame brackets, use pin punch to line it all up, CAREFUL with rack plug-tiny pins
After installing with tool and tighteneing with old bolt and removing, heat new bolt with heat gun and install red loctite on 1/2 half of threads before installing.
BOLT TIGHTENING: tighten to 240LB with old bolt (SEE NOTE BELOW) , threadlocker (272 Locktite?)on new bolt and tighten to 37Ft LB, mark bolt 12 oclock to 6 ocllock with line.
tighten bolt second time to get 140 degree angle, RESEARCH IT.
Important NOTE: The nose of the crankshaft should be recessed 2.4-4.48 mm (0.094-0.176 in) into the balancer bore.

someones writeup:

Having owned my 2005 C6 (with 54,500 miles) since last November I have been watching the HB with a slight wobble. No chirping of the belts (or anything else), but I decided to replace it before it got worse. Tackled it Sunday for a few hours and finished it Monday afternoon. Using a friends lift made it much easier too.

Special tools

Flywheel locking tool (for A4 auto)
Chrysler HB puller from AutoZone
LS2 HB install tool

Parts

Powerbond HB (my choice)
ARP HB Bolt
Front crank seal
Catayltic converter flange seal
Exhaust pipe donut seal
New Accessory drive & AC belts

First remove the passenger side catalytic converter & remove starter, install flywheel locking tool (you will need this to torque the HB bolt).

Pull the wheels, disconnect intermediate steering shaft, disconnect fluid lines to steering gear, remove accessory & AC drive belts, disconnect tie rods from steering knuckles, remove bolts to ABS module and push module up, remove driver's side brake line bracket and move aside, remove bolts from plastic brackets on front transmission lines (mine does not have a tranny cooler), remove front engine cradle nuts and loosen rear nuts, pry front of engine cradle down about 1" and insert a shim to keep it in place, remove 2 steering rack bolts, work the steering rack out the driver's side gently pushing brake lines out of the way (it is very close but will come out), remove HB with Chrysler puller (it is very heavy duty and low profile), remove front crankshaft seal & tap new seal in place, mount new HB and pull in place with the installation tool, lubricate & install new ARP bolt & torque to 230 lb. ft.

Note: I do not recommend using the original bolt to pull the new HB in place as there are not enough threads to keep from damaging the crankshaft threads.
Reverse the process and reinstall everything and you are good to go.
At first I was very intimidated and did not want to do it. Overall it is pretty easy and well worth the time to save $1,000 at the GM dealer. Total time for the job was about 5 hours.