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BAttery has 12.66 volts ...I think factory cables original ones ..miles 106110 ...and about taking it to the dealer ? Don't get mad with my answer but I never take any car to the stealership besides 99% of the time they don't fix the issue
I'm new to group. I have 2006 Z51 convertible and have tried 2 remanufactured alternators and both failed to charge the battery. Both were 145 amps. I have checked all terminals including starter (yes they were loose) and as many grounds as I can find. So, can someone direct me to wiring diagrams for grounding. OR can someone recommend a reliable replacement alternator. The original still works but voltage is all over the place.
I'm new to group. I have 2006 Z51 convertible and have tried 2 remanufactured alternators and both failed to charge the battery. Both were 145 amps. I have checked all terminals including starter (yes they were loose) and as many grounds as I can find. So, can someone direct me to wiring diagrams for grounding. OR can someone recommend a reliable replacement alternator. The original still works but voltage is all over the place.
I'm having some beers with the super mechanic that fixed mine I asked him about your issue ... He says check cables from alternator to battery ... check connectors check relays and fuses .. if your battery cables are from factory replace them ...let us know how is everything going
Thanks I'll check the relays and fuses. I did do a voltage drop test from alt to battery positive and negative and readings were 0.01 to 0.02 volts. But as recommended the cables are old so I will work on replacements .
Thanks I'll check the relays and fuses. I did do a voltage drop test from alt to battery positive and negative and readings were 0.01 to 0.02 volts. But as recommended the cables are old so I will work on replacements .
go for it get new cables and try that ...but keep checking grounds and short circuit maybe can occur
Once again this piece of crap die ...battery has 12.66 volts ... Brand New bcm programmed ...abs light ...service anti lock brakes ...all gauges go down to zero minus the battery one no lock or unlock through the key fob no windows working...low fuel message even with half tank etc ...I'm tired of this crap give me an offer
I had these issues a few months ago, pull the onstar fuse, and buy a steering column lock bypass module, also if you have the active exhaust with the valves it creates a draw as well.
I also have a 2005. I installed LED lighting in my garage. When the garage lights are on, my C6 acts just like yours. Turn the lights off and all is well.
Thanks VetteLover and your drinking buddy. I had the battery/alternator/starter checked and all checked good. One evening while trying to find the alternator wire route I was pulling on the wire. Next time I tried to start and run I had only 11 volts on the cluster. So I disconnected the old wire and installed a new #4 from alt to starter. That's a procedure I will not repeat. Next time I'll get a multi-post battery clamp and go straight to the battery. The the one thing I learned was the ECM monitors the alt. output and de-clutches the drive pulley. Some ones idea to save gas or add a fraction of HP. I got that tid bit from a gent who repairs alternators and starters for the last 65 years and I do recall reading in the owners manual that is a feature. The three pin plug and receptacle on top of the alternator is where the ECM and alt communicate. One pin is the alt output to the ECM, the second is the alt output to the ECM for the gage cluster reading and the third is the ECM output to de-clutch the pulley. I hope this helps someone else down the road. So cheers to you and your friend for the help.
Thanks VetteLover and your drinking buddy. I had the battery/alternator/starter checked and all checked good. One evening while trying to find the alternator wire route I was pulling on the wire. Next time I tried to start and run I had only 11 volts on the cluster. So I disconnected the old wire and installed a new #4 from alt to starter. That's a procedure I will not repeat. Next time I'll get a multi-post battery clamp and go straight to the battery. The the one thing I learned was the ECM monitors the alt. output and de-clutches the drive pulley. Some ones idea to save gas or add a fraction of HP. I got that tid bit from a gent who repairs alternators and starters for the last 65 years and I do recall reading in the owners manual that is a feature. The three pin plug and receptacle on top of the alternator is where the ECM and alt communicate. One pin is the alt output to the ECM, the second is the alt output to the ECM for the gage cluster reading and the third is the ECM output to de-clutch the pulley. I hope this helps someone else down the road. So cheers to you and your friend for the help.
Hey boss thanks to you for all the info you post that's a good one for sure ...you are very welcome... With the time we become like 80% vette fixers ...I had a c5 which I did almost everything on it except for the transmission repair ...now in my 2005 I have done everything ...they are easy to work although the electrical gremlins have been part of GM since the creation lol ...have a great blessed day cheers for you and everyone in this great forum
I have a 05 and cured all my troubles by placing 4 bulb of garlic under the hood, I hang a silver cross from the rear view mirror and keep a wooden stack in glove box.
i have a 05 and cured all my troubles by placing 4 bulb of garlic under the hood, i hang a silver cross from the rear view mirror and keep a wooden stack in glove box.