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As stated, you don't replace the entire block, but just press the pin out and replace the connector with a Metri-Pack 280 Series.
If you check with mouser, should be able to pick up a pack of them on the cheap.
As for the connector, does not look that evil, and standard pick tool to re-bend the connecting piece outwards to make a better contact with the pin, will solve the connector pin.
But the lower pin is not your really problem, and its up in the upper block that is causing all the heat isntead.
What is going on, is the U connector that the relay fuse spade clips into, it either bend open, burnt, or the wire trace that connects to the side of it burnt/corroded, and the real problem that is causing all the heat at the upper blocks male spade connector that is transferring down to the lower block connector.
So short of replacing the entire upper fuse block that the relays and fuses plug into that can get spendy, you can pull the upper fuse block apart to clean up the U tab/bend it back/fix the wire trace connector to it, so it does make clean contact with the relay connector spade pin, and all will be right with the world once again. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...connector.html
And note, that you want to remove the grommet ferrule ring lips on the bottom of the upper fuse block to pull it apart, since the through bolts themselves, will hold the upper fuse block together when it bolted back in place via its center bolts to the lower blocks.
As stated, you don't replace the entire block, but just press the pin out and replace the connector with a Metri-Pack 280 Series.
If you check with mouser, should be able to pick up a pack of them on the cheap.
As for the connector, does not look that evil, and standard pick tool to re-bend the connecting piece outwards to make a better contact with the pin, will solve the connector pin.
But the lower pin is not your really problem, and its up in the upper block that is causing all the heat isntead.
What is going on, is the U connector that the relay fuse spade clips into, it either bend open, burnt, or the wire trace that connects to the side of it burnt/corroded, and the real problem that is causing all the heat at the upper blocks male spade connector that is transferring down to the lower block connector.
So short of replacing the entire upper fuse block that the relays and fuses plug into that can get spendy, you can pull the upper fuse block apart to clean up the U tab/bend it back/fix the wire trace connector to it, so it does make clean contact with the relay connector spade pin, and all will be right with the world once again. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...connector.html
And note, that you want to remove the grommet ferrule ring lips on the bottom of the upper fuse block to pull it apart, since the through bolts themselves, will hold the upper fuse block together when it bolted back in place via its center bolts to the lower blocks.
ok thank you, I ordered those connectors. I will let you all know the results.
On the upper fuse block once you have it apart, don't need to replace the U pins in it, just clean them up on there contact points to the relay spades, and bend the U back together as needed.
As for the pin connectors (lower and upper box), may be the fuel pump relay pins, and if so and have a BAP in play, need to confirm that the oem fuel pump relay is only being used to control the BAPs own relay that is controlling the BAP on and off.. Also, the OEM power line out of the lower box to the fuel pump harness in back, is not used to send the BAP power to the harness, since the OEM wire is too thin in gauge size as well.
So down and dirty, power out of the oem relay is used for the blue/Yellow (green) wire, and power out of the BAP is run all the way back to the fuel pump connector on larger gauge wiring rated for that increased load.
In not a BAP in play/ not the relay pin for the fuel pump, then figure out what is on that pin adding in after-market that is causing the increased heat and burning problems back up at the upper block U connector.
As stated, you don't replace the entire block, but just press the pin out and replace the connector with a Metri-Pack 280 Series.
If you check with mouser, should be able to pick up a pack of them on the cheap.
As for the connector, does not look that evil, and standard pick tool to re-bend the connecting piece outwards to make a better contact with the pin, will solve the connector pin.
But the lower pin is not your really problem, and its up in the upper block that is causing all the heat isntead.
What is going on, is the U connector that the relay fuse spade clips into, it either bend open, burnt, or the wire trace that connects to the side of it burnt/corroded, and the real problem that is causing all the heat at the upper blocks male spade connector that is transferring down to the lower block connector.
So short of replacing the entire upper fuse block that the relays and fuses plug into that can get spendy, you can pull the upper fuse block apart to clean up the U tab/bend it back/fix the wire trace connector to it, so it does make clean contact with the relay connector spade pin, and all will be right with the world once again. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...connector.html
And note, that you want to remove the grommet ferrule ring lips on the bottom of the upper fuse block to pull it apart, since the through bolts themselves, will hold the upper fuse block together when it bolted back in place via its center bolts to the lower blocks.
how do I get the fuse box seperated? I cant get the 4 bolts out
how do I get the fuse box seperated? I cant get the 4 bolts out
If you mean upper block from lower blocks, once you have the 8 center bolts UN-threaded (the metal grommets will retain the bolts in the upper block), you have the un snap O tabs on the sides of the upper block that hook onto the lower block housings tabs, .
If you man to get the upper block apart to pull its covers, then read post 4 in the below link that you have to remove the lower flanges on the grommets to begin with, to remove the grommets and bolts,then upper block has hooks that hold it together as well. And reason for lower grommet flanges, is when you put the upper block back on, the bolts will hold the upper block together in the end. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...connector.html
Hi sir, I am in need of the yellow block, can’t find a part number, would you happen to know it, or point me in the right direction? Thanks
much.
I just repaired my fuse block. Lost one of the bolts. Any ideas. I guess I could get a long bolt from Lowes and use spacer to hold it down. I doubt the bolts are available for sale separately. An ideas? I installed with three bolts and have intermittent starting issues. Thanks.
The depinning it pretty easy if you take your time. One important tip though. There are these teal, fingered connetor retainers that need to slide out the side of the block. My new block did not come with one. If yours is fried like mine was, the finger that holds the fuel pump connector in is also burnt/broken, meaning once you replace the block, it won't guarantee a solid connection and this could happen again. When looking at the fuse box, the other block closest to the front has these same teal, finger retainers - and no connection in the same location as the fuel pump location on the block you're replacing. I swapped that good one to the fuel pump block and the other burnt one in place of the good one towards the front. That way all connectors are secure and I didn't have to hunt down the connection retainer.
The depinning it pretty easy if you take your time. One important tip though. There are these teal, fingered connetor retainers that need to slide out the side of the block. My new block did not come with one. If yours is fried like mine was, the finger that holds the fuel pump connector in is also burnt/broken, meaning once you replace the block, it won't guarantee a solid connection and this could happen again. When looking at the fuse box, the other block closest to the front has these same teal, finger retainers - and no connection in the same location as the fuel pump location on the block you're replacing. I swapped that good one to the fuel pump block and the other burnt one in place of the good one towards the front. That way all connectors are secure and I didn't have to hunt down the connection retainer.
