Powermaster alternator
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,780
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From: New York New York
Powermaster alternator
Hey guys, has anyone used at powermaster alternator with good results? I know the mechman is good but it’s a bit pricey and wanted to know if this was a cheaper option. I think mine is dying the slow death.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,458
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From: Houston TX
I've read on various forums in the last several years that Powermaster is not what they used to be. That doesn't mean they suck of course. What are you hoping to gain by changing from OEM? More amps at idle? More amps at higher RPM?
PS You could also check dc power but they are probably just as expensive if not more than the mechman.
PS You could also check dc power but they are probably just as expensive if not more than the mechman.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,780
Likes: 332
From: New York New York
I've read on various forums in the last several years that Powermaster is not what they used to be. That doesn't mean they suck of course. What are you hoping to gain by changing from OEM? More amps at idle? More amps at higher RPM?
PS You could also check dc power but they are probably just as expensive if not more than the mechman.
PS You could also check dc power but they are probably just as expensive if not more than the mechman.
Last edited by racerx3317; Jun 19, 2021 at 11:07 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
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If oem is putting out power, then basic clean up, and maybe replacing the brushes if way worn out at $10 is all that is needed.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
The mechman unit on the other hand, is a 6 pole unit (verses the OEM being 3 pole), so it does put a lot more amperage at idle isntead.
Hence oem at idle puts out about 14 amps (the 140amp is fully spun up around 3K rpms), while the billet puts out 45+ amps at idle isntead.
So if problem is while sitting at stop light with A/C on and having low voltage from all the cars power draws like the raditor fan on full blast, the cleaned up OEM may help, but really need the billet alternator to solve the problem isntead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nator-fix.html
The mechman unit on the other hand, is a 6 pole unit (verses the OEM being 3 pole), so it does put a lot more amperage at idle isntead.
Hence oem at idle puts out about 14 amps (the 140amp is fully spun up around 3K rpms), while the billet puts out 45+ amps at idle isntead.
So if problem is while sitting at stop light with A/C on and having low voltage from all the cars power draws like the raditor fan on full blast, the cleaned up OEM may help, but really need the billet alternator to solve the problem isntead.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,629
To add, the alternator only gets power to the battery, and someone times is not the charging system the problem, but from the batter to the engine fuse box, to the BCM, and then down line to the ECM. I bring this up, since the voltage at the dash is not the dash voltage, but the voltage at the ECM since that signal is set to the dash digitally to disply it on both the dial, and the DIC.
So could be corroded terminals at the either the rear alternator connector, starter solenoid terminal where the battery and alternator wires connect, battery, or engine fuse box terminal. Could be at the engine fuse box upper to lower block, could be at the BCM connectors that need to be cleaned, or from the BCM connect to the ECM connector that needs to be cleaned.
Bottom line, start the car, turn the lights, radio, and A/C off, then using a multi meter, use the back terminal of the alternator (under the rubber boot) as your postive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source with a multi meter and see if you have 14.7volts DC on the meter. If you do, the alternator is fine, and its a problem down line at the connections isntead.
So could be corroded terminals at the either the rear alternator connector, starter solenoid terminal where the battery and alternator wires connect, battery, or engine fuse box terminal. Could be at the engine fuse box upper to lower block, could be at the BCM connectors that need to be cleaned, or from the BCM connect to the ECM connector that needs to be cleaned.
Bottom line, start the car, turn the lights, radio, and A/C off, then using a multi meter, use the back terminal of the alternator (under the rubber boot) as your postive source, and the body of the alternator as your ground source with a multi meter and see if you have 14.7volts DC on the meter. If you do, the alternator is fine, and its a problem down line at the connections isntead.
