Can anyone help me find the WIRELESS KEY ENTRY REMOTE RECEIVER ANTENNA module Part # 10448049 in my car?? My C5 it was in the rear trunk area. Not sure where the C6 is located, cant seem to find a thread on it. Tried searching, but only found C5s. Also, local dealer is out of stock with no ETA on backorder. Anybody know where I can get a new one???
thanks for any help you can give.
Ron

 

1 minute of googling your part number and I found a used one on ebay for $28.96
Is yours bad or is it a battery issue in the fob?

https://www.gmpartscenter.net/v-2008...try-components

 

Does this help? https://www.corvetteactioncenter.com...message-9.html

 

I see 25 of them on eBay starting at 10 bucks. 8 bucks if you use the p/n 25888495 before it was superceded.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/26498295840...0AAOSwsEpeesDu

The passive keyless entry has the following components:

• The transmitters, up to 4 total

• The RCDLR

• The keyless entry antenna - left, located in the lower B-pillar area at door height

• The keyless entry antenna - Right, located in the lower B-pillar area at door height

• The keyless entry antenna - rear, located in the rear compartment area near the rear compartment lid latch

• The keyless entry antenna - back up, located inside the passenger compartment inside the glove box area

See if this diagram helps. The C6 has four of those antennas.Look for item #2.

 

Ok, i think it is the RCDLR that is bad, based on the way it fails. I went for 2 weeks not being able to start the car even with the FOB in the glove compartment slot. I have three FOBs and none of them worked. I reprogrammed using the long method (over an hour of waiting) to no avail. Then one day it started working all by itself. So, now I want to install a new RCDLR and get rid of the the problem for at least while I won the car. Thanks

 

Try to find a shop that has a Tech2 so you can avoid dealer markups.

Remote Control Door Lock Receiver
If the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) is replaced, the following procedures must be performed in the order listed below:

Perform the Keyless Entry Transmitter Programming procedure--Refer to Transmitter Programming Select Transmitter Programming for New RCDLRs ONLY.
Perform the procedure to set up a new remote control door lock receiver:
2.1. Connect the Tech 2 to the vehicle

2.2. Select RCDLR under Module Setup in the Vehicle Control System menu.

2.3. Select Setup New RCDLR.

2.4. Follow the on-screen instructions.

Perform the Theft Deterrent 10-Minute or 30-Minute Relearn Procedure for the Engine Control Module (ECM) --Refer to Immobilizer System Component Programming , selecting the Programming Theft Deterrent System Components that matches your vehicles country of origin.
During the ECM programming, select Theft Deterrent Learn for ECM on the SPS terminal.

Perform the tire pressure sensor learn procedure, (if equipped)--Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor Learn .

 

@Dano523 has posted several times, I believe, that the RCDLR can suffer from poor solder connections. It may be repairable if that's the case. You might be able to fix it yourself and since you've decided to replace it you might try that first. You'll also avoid the potential cost of marrying the new RCDLR to the BCM because you need a Tech 2 to do that. Just my .02 worth.

 

Yep, since the board is solder bath produced, and the header connector pins are so large, it a hit or miss if they get hot enough to get a good solder joints to the board.

RCDLR board with huge header pins for the connector sockets,
Attachment 48336388

Other side of the board with header pin solder joints at the bottom of the photo, and a complete ***** show of colder solder joints at the header pins since they did not get hot enough to allow the solder to flow correctly to them,
Attachment 48336389


As for the other problem most of the time on the RCDLR, either board gets wet and you have some corrosion cleaning to do, or car is driving on very rough/unpaved roads, and it can cause solder joint problems on the CPU instead. On this one, you need to pull the heat sink shield (orange sticker marked 215 NA), resolder the CPU, then use heat paste before re-soldering the heat sink shield back in place.

As for the relays (white axicom), the can go bad from time to time, and either you can pull the covers to clean up the contacts, or just replace the bad on instead. The relays are 5v controlled, but not hard to test them while still on the board since you can get to there header pins from the back side of the board.

Bottom line it, since you have to pull the RCDLR even if your going to replace it, just too easy with it in hand to pull the board out of the case to give it a once over to resolve any problems is does have. Even if you do have a Tech2 to Firmware flash and security key lock a new RCDLR to the BCM, it still take a time, and not needed if you just correct the old unit to stick back in the car.

 

Does anyone know how to replace an antenna on the B post , do you have to remove the fenders?