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Okay smart people, I had my HUD go out a couple of years ago and I went through ALL of the posts and steps to check EVERYTHING. Fuses, buttons, looking down from outside and my HUD is NOT Lighting up. The plug is secure and I tried EVERY button in EVERY configuration possible. Do I need to get another HUD and replace? I see posts about butchering the ductwork and was wondering if it is ABSOLUTELY necessary. Thanks in advance for any advice and if there are any NEW fixes or things to try, I'm game!!!!!!! GO!!
I have done this install without pulling dash, which requires cutting one duct into two pieces so can get in there to access HUD.
Wouldn't call it "butchering"....the one cut is reattached with aluminum HVAC sealing tape. This tape can hold 20-pound ductwork pieces together in a hot attic, so I think it is also effective in holding a 6-ounce plastic duct together inside the dash. (all weights are estimates, and are coming from a dumass)
If you feel like diagnosing some more, here are the steps in the shop manual. Might be the switch:
Ignition OFF, disconnect the harness connector at the HUD.
Test for less than 1.0 ohm of resistance between the HUD ground circuit terminal 6 and ground.
⇒ If greater than 1.0 ohm, test the HUD ground circuit terminal 6 for an open/high resistance.
Verify a test lamp illuminates when connected between the HUD battery positive voltage circuit terminal 1 and the ground circuit terminal 6.
⇒ If the test light does not illuminate, test the HUD battery positive voltage circuit for an open/high resistance.
Verify a test lamp illuminates when connected between the HUD dimming up switch signal circuit terminal 11 and B+ while pressing the HUD dimming up switch.
⇒ If the test light does not illuminate, test the HUD dimming up switch signal circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit test normal, replace the HUD.
Verify a test lamp illuminates when connected between the HUD dimming down switch signal circuit terminal 12 and B+ while pressing the HUD dimming down switch.
⇒ If the test light does not illuminate, test the HUD dimming down switch signal circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit test normal, replace the HUD.
If all circuits test normal, test or replace the HUD switch.
If you decide to replace the unit, here is part of my write-up that has some tips.....like cut the duct far enough over to get your hand in there. Looking at the thread date, looks like I have had my HUD almost 12 years now. No issues with HUD of the duct that I cut:
1) Pull dash surround bezel by prying on both bottom corners (below right start button and left a/c vent) with a scratch-free tool. Once those areas pop out, you can work your fingers around, popping off the bezel. TIP: may have to lift top of dash slightly to remove and re-install this piece AND the instument cluster. Remove the dimmer, DIC, start and sensor plugs during removal. Remove the left pod dummy piece and install the new HUD switch.
2) With a 7mm nutdriver, remove the 4 cluster screws and the 1 left a/c vent retaining screw. Pull the cluster out, disconnecting the gray and black plugs.
3) Using a hacksaw that is an open blade on one end with a handle on the other, carefully cut the large duct on the right side. TIP: Don't just cut it wide enough to get the projector in - you need some room to get your hand in to tighten the right nut. You will want to cut it fairly close to the sensor that is screwed into the duct.
4) Once the duct is cut completely through, pull on it to yank it out which will break off the mounting tab on the left side. You can now remove the filler bezel on top of the dash and replace it with the HUD bezel. TIP: This is done by pushing the panel forward (toward the windshield) and pulling it up and out of the slots.
5) Fit projector into dash working it onto the 2 studs. I cut a notch in the left mounting ear so the projector can be dropped over the right stud and then swung over onto the left stud without having to lift it over the stud. Might try this if clearance is tight. To secue the back of the projector, get a J-nut or Speednut with screw and washer. A J-nut might slide over the leg of the projector but since there is a channel inside the leg you can just hold it in position while starting the screw. The rectangular speednut will not spin while tightening the screw (with a stubby screwdriver) because it is caught inside the channel of the leg. Install 2 6mm nylon locknuts with flatwashers on the studs. Hard to get to but can be done. TIP: use a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench since it is tight in there.
6) Reinstall a/c duct. I recommend aluminum HVAC tape over duct tape. TIP: first place a piece or two of tape on the top of the duct before inserting the cut-off section as it is hard to work tape around the top after installing it. Make sure tape is worked all the way around. Reinstall screw at left vent.
You could always do this without cutting the duct, but you will need to pull/loosen the dash at the very least. Removing the steering wheel is also advisable.
You could always do this without cutting the duct, but you will need to pull/loosen the dash at the very least. Removing the steering wheel is also advisable.
In my opinion,
-- if you are having the HUD installed then cut the duct. You want this repair/replace done quickly, and at the lowest expense. Result ~99% factory look, feel, and reliability.
-- if you are doing it yourself then remove the dash. (Labor cost is $0 to It is far easier to remove/install the Hud and ensure all is tightened/installed correctly.) The result is 100% factory look, feel, and reliability. Plus you can replace bulbs, a bad speaker, etc. while you are in there. Warning! It is a huge amount of labor and assumes you have some experience (Nothing technical just general r&r).
In my opinion,
-- if you are having the HUD installed then cut the duct. You want this repair/replace done quickly, and at the lowest expense. Result ~99% factory look, feel, and reliability.
-- if you are doing it yourself then remove the dash. (Labor cost is $0 to It is far easier to remove/install the Hud and ensure all is tightened/installed correctly.) The result is 100% factory look, feel, and reliability. Plus you can replace bulbs, a bad speaker, etc. while you are in there. Warning! It is a huge amount of labor and assumes you have some experience (Nothing technical just general r&r).
Thanks for bold-facing huge! Take this advice with a grain of salt. Dash removal IS a big job that can also end with broken clips and a dash that rattles for the rest of its life. At least if my meat hooks were doing it.
My cut-the duct install has been nothing but 100% factory look, feel, and reliability for 12 years running. And that is with my homemade harness. Those who have done several HUD installs (complete....not just replacing the projector) have gotten the job down to less than 2 hours.
In my opinion,
-- if you are doing it yourself then remove the dash. (Labor cost is $0 to It is far easier to remove/install the Hud and ensure all is tightened/installed correctly.) The result is 100% factory look, feel, and reliability. Plus you can replace bulbs, a bad speaker, etc. while you are in there. Warning! It is a huge amount of labor and assumes you have some experience (Nothing technical just general r&r).
It’s honestly not as bad as it’s made out to be. First time removing the dash I had it out in under 2 hours and that included taking my time to sort and label all the screws/nuts/bolts I removed and refilling my water bottle a couple times. Re-installing took about an hour.
My HUD recently failed as well. I can see a dimly lighted blue/green screen with no text or graphics displayed. I can see the screen dim and brighten with the controls. I can see the screen move up and down with the controls. Its like the data is not making it to the projector or the projected controller is kaput. Has anyone else witnessed this failure mode? Is the projector alone a replaceable unit?
I have done this install without pulling dash, which requires cutting one duct into two pieces so can get in there to access HUD.
Wouldn't call it "butchering"....the one cut is reattached with aluminum HVAC sealing tape. This tape can hold 20-pound ductwork pieces together in a hot attic, so I think it is also effective in holding a 6-ounce plastic duct together inside the dash. (all weights are estimates, and are coming from a dumass)
I did the same - clean cut on a lite weight plastic duct and used Gorilla tape once done to secure it. It can hold up to a Gorilla so I think holding that ~6 oz plastic duct is probably stronger than before the cut (but that also is coming from another dumbass.....lol) I had to do the JB weld washer mod for the mirror mounts which has worked perfectly for years now.
My HUD recently failed as well. I can see a dimly lighted blue/green screen with no text or graphics displayed. I can see the screen dim and brighten with the controls. I can see the screen move up and down with the controls. Its like the data is not making it to the projector or the projected controller is kaput. Has anyone else witnessed this failure mode? Is the projector alone a replaceable unit?
Are you sure it's the projector and not the mirror off kilter because of the mirror pedestals needing the JB weld washer mod???
BMF_C6, Not really sure of anything other what I have already stated. Attached is photo of the backlighted screen. I have full dimming and up/down control but no text or graphics.
Last edited by navarrelivin; Nov 4, 2021 at 02:57 PM.
Reason: text
It’s honestly not as bad as it’s made out to be. First time removing the dash I had it out in under 2 hours and that included taking my time to sort and label all the screws/nuts/bolts I removed and refilling my water bottle a couple times. Re-installing took about an hour.
2005 HUD Issue
