When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a m6 2005, I will randomly throw a p1516 code which makes the throttle very slow to respond but no reduced engine power. I was throwing this code followed by a p2135 and a reduced engine power condition previously but after installing a new throttle body it worked perfectly for about a month and now I'm just throwing a p1516 randomly, I can clear the codes while I'm driving and it will instantly go back to normal for a bit until it throws it again. I'm not sure what to do at this point I don't want to buy another throttle body if that's not the issue. I'm debating buying a new accelerator pedal assembly but unsure if that will fix my issue. I have a cold air intake and a catch can as far as my intake is concerned, the rest is stock minus my exhaust. Possibly oil intrusion into the throttle body? I'm just not sure at this point and I'm hoping someone has had a similar issue with a resolution. Thank you
There is a TSB for P1516, but appears to be for 6.2L. Might take a look.
Google PIP3786B.
Seems like the pad there talking about doesn't exist on the ls2, I never saw anything inside the intake. I'm going to thoroughly clean the maf and throttle body when I get home. The fact that it was perfect for a month makes me think oil could be the culprit. Possibly As time went on oil has started accumulating and is starting to cause problems again. I'm hoping it's that easy of a fix, if that is the case then I need to figure out why there is so much oil in the intake.
Finnaly got around to cleaning the maf and throttle body, I even took the throttle body all the way down and checked each connection and it was perfect (probably because it's brand new lol) there was very little oil in the intake or on the throttle body itself so now I'm lost. Not sure what to do next except throw parts at it.
Is there any ace Corvette tech in your area? I would some point in would be cost effective to pay the labor rather than throw parts at it.
I think I figured out the issue. After taking the intake and MAF off I thoroughly cleaned them and reinstalled them, there was very very little oil in the throttle body. The throttle body I recently bought was a TRQ model, almost identical in every way except that the connector is slightly too tight. I can get the harness connector to click in place however I need to seriously muscle it to get it to click (literally push as hard as I can and put all my body weight into it). What I believe is happening is that all the leads have a good connection to start with but after awhile the heat and vibration is just enough to loosen the connection and cause one or more leads to momentarily lose connection which throws the code. After cleaning out the connection and reconnecting the TB I haven't thrown another code in days (was happening 2 to 3 times each time I drove before). If in the coming days or weeks I start to have the issue again I'm going to look into some way of making sure the connection stays tight. Hopefully this is all that was causing my issue. Only time will tell.
If you live anywhere near NYC (pls update your profile), I would highly recommend you contact Chuck Mosello at Corvettes of Westchester in Ossining (northern suburb).
Well the code came back with the same issues, worst yet, the connector was seated all the way in with absolutely no play. I'm stumped, I don't want to take it shop (any decent shop I've heard of is atleast 2 hours from me). I've tried data logging but nothing shows up. It drives perfect then I will come to a stop light and when I give it some gas to get going it chokes up and bogs, the throttle feels very slow to react and I have to rev it alot to get it to go without bogging and stalling. No reduced power mode but it feels really weak, it still gets moving but if I hit the gas it will bog for a second then take off. If I roll into the throttle it feels like normal just when I press the gas too quickly it bogs. I really have no idea. Has anyone ever heard of a throttle body failing after a month?
So I've finally fixed the issue. Long story short, buy an OEM throttle body. After ANOTHER trq throttle body died after a month I put my big boy pants on and bought an OEM unit from Soler performance. $350 later and my car feels so much stronger and hasn't thrown a code since.
So I've finally fixed the issue. Long story short, buy an OEM throttle body. After ANOTHER trq throttle body died after a month I put my big boy pants on and bought an OEM unit from Soler performance. $350 later and my car feels so much stronger and hasn't thrown a code since.
it was probably just the sensor on the TB unit that you needed to change out which is $50-$60 I wish I would’ve seen your post after fixing mine.
it was probably just the sensor on the TB unit that you needed to change out which is $50-$60 I wish I would’ve seen your post after fixing mine.
Back years ago, I had a 350z that was throwing an oil pressure light and I'd started with the sensor (cheaper one albeit). Didn't fix the issue. Threw more money into other causes, nothing. Eventually came back around bought an OEM unit (much more expensive) and all my problems went away. Mechanical things like suspension, rotors, pads, OK fine.. Cheaper, whatever.. But if it has electronics in it, OEM is usually the way to go 99% of the time.
Back years ago, I had a 350z that was throwing an oil pressure light and I'd started with the sensor (cheaper one albeit). Didn't fix the issue. Threw more money into other causes, nothing. Eventually came back around bought an OEM unit (much more expensive) and all my problems went away. Mechanical things like suspension, rotors, pads, OK fine.. Cheaper, whatever.. But if it has electronics in it, OEM is usually the way to go 99% of the time.
yes OEM is the way to go but I had a NW103 that uses the same type of sensor as OEM but nick Williams decided to use some China made crap sensor that doesn’t last and I just ended up replacing the sensor only with OEM and works perfect.
It's been a very stressful 2 weeks. My car ran great for a couple days. The first night I put it on I drove it hard to make sure it worked and it was perfect. The next day I drove the car I merged onto a highway and gave it some gas and boom went right into limp mode. P0121 and p060e. I've done tons and tons of testing and have found a couple things are happening. First off I bought an ossiliscope and tested the throttle body and pedal position sensors and both output clean signal. If I punch the gas I will go into limp mode but not under any other circumstance, also it seems to happen randomly, sometimes it will take off and have no issues other times it will go right into limp mode. After getting two separate freeze frames on two separate days I checked the data and the code is being thrown at exactly 3244 RPM on both freeze frames. None of the sensor values were off either. The p0121 will be present sometimes with the p060e but not every time. After talking to Soler performance he was stumped and hasn't had this issue on a non ported throttle body. Turns out the throttle body I bought is is "stock-ish" throttle body. Apparently it's basically the same with an upgraded sensor? They have real OEM throttle body for 200 more and I'm thinking about just doing that to make absolutely sure that the throttle body is not my issue. I'm getting very tired of dealing with this I just want to enjoy the car. I'm torn between getting a real OEM throttle body or taking the car to a tuner and having the car tuned and the code hopefully tuned out. I'm leaning more towards the OEM option. Also from what I understand the TPS is not a replaceable part you must buy an entire throttle body. My biggest fear as of now is that I need a new ecm/PCM which is gonna run me a cool 750$ before being reprogrammed (first year c6 problems). This is why Im also considering the tune maybe it just needs a reflash and I'd rather pay for a tune than just a stock reflash.
Did you find the issue? I have something similar. I replaced the throttle body with a TRQ unit because the OEM was throwing the p1516 code. Still does it seemingly randomly. I'm replacing my filter and checking the intake for the hydrocarbon pads next. I'd love to know if you resolved it.
Did you find the issue? I have something similar. I replaced the throttle body with a TRQ unit because the OEM was throwing the p1516 code. Still does it seemingly randomly. I'm replacing my filter and checking the intake for the hydrocarbon pads next. I'd love to know if you resolved it.
I found a real OEM unit from soler performance, think I paid about 550$, been running it for a few months now without a single issue. OEM is the only way to go.
Did you find the issue? I have something similar. I replaced the throttle body with a TRQ unit because the OEM was throwing the p1516 code. Still does it seemingly randomly. I'm replacing my filter and checking the intake for the hydrocarbon pads next. I'd love to know if you resolved it.
try buying the $50 OEM sensor and replacing that first
try buying the $50 OEM sensor and replacing that first
Not sure what sensor your talking about. If your referring to the throttle position sensor that is not an individual part you can purchase, you have to buy the entire throttle body. If you mean MAF, even if his maf is causing problems he will still need a different throttle body because the TRQ throttle body doesnt work, I went through 3 of them and all had the same symptoms, remedied by an OEM replacement.
Not sure what sensor your talking about. If your referring to the throttle position sensor that is not an individual part you can purchase, you have to buy the entire throttle body. If you mean MAF, even if his maf is causing problems he will still need a different throttle body because the TRQ throttle body doesnt work, I went through 3 of them and all had the same symptoms, remedied by an OEM replacement.
That's for an ls3 car. The ls2 throttle bodys are different and very hard to come by not to mention EXPENSIVE in comparison to the ls3. Ls2 uses a silver blade that opens opposite of the ls3, this is why it won't work the computer thinks the throttle body is not performing properly and will throw a code. Ls2 throttle body position sensors are internal and while it is possible to disassemble the throttle body get to the motor/sensor, they cannot be purchased separately so you have to buy an entire new throttle body.