I’m thinking purchasing one of two different ‘12 Grand Sport Coupes. Both are manual shift and are cosmetically excellent.
One is a 2LT with 13K miles, and 5 previous owners with a super clean CarFax. It has K&N Intake, long tube headers, and Borla Exhaust.
What I don’t like is lack of seat heaters and the exhaust note is too radical. I realize I can swap to quieter mufflers.

The other is a 3LT with 35K miles and 3 previous owners again very clean CarFax. Mods are intake, headers, exhaust, “mild” cam, and shift kit. It also has magnetic ride.

As a guy who has only had C3s, I would appreciate some input. My use will be almost daily, a few miles each way, some of the journey on bumpy roads. Why I want? I’m mostly a straight line guy - not an auto crosser nor do I live in the hills where we have lots of sweeping curves. But I like the idea of pulling away from traffic when the time is right and get after it a little.

1). If the 2LT mufflers are changed to quieter ones, would the fuel map need to be reworked?
2). The engine on the 3LT doesn’t shake at idle so I believe it to be a more mild cam - but these ‘12 and ‘13 hand built LS3s, when it comes to resale - does the cam hurt it? Or shift kit?
3). The 3LT has magnetic ride - does it soften the ride over bumpy streets in a noticeable way over non-magnetic ride suspension? Or is it really just for auto crossing, etc.
4). Anything else I need to consider?

 

I'm thinking that you are moving away from the 2LT based on the last sentence of your description. I would be swayed by 5 owners in 13k miles. High probability that you would become seller #6 after you discover why the previous 5 made the same decision. Both should have had a tune performed after installing the intake & exhaust mods, but definitely the 3LT after adding a cam. You do not need a tune after swapping just the axle-back system. I do not believe that mods hurt resale value, but I also do not believe they necessarily help either. The MRC (magnetic ride) system will offer a "stiffer" feeling ride then without. I have it on my 2013 GS and couldn't tell a difference between tour & sport settings. I installed the Jim Mero software modification and highly recommend it on the MRC, the difference is well worth the cost of the upgrade.

You should check the harmonic balancer for any wobble as this is a common problem with the C6 and the fix will cost a grand, plus or minus. Being manual, the C6 also has had a problem with the hydraulic clutch system. The forum members with manuals will weigh in here. There shouldn't be much you will need to consider with the low miles, but a pre-purchase inspection by an independent Corvette mechanic would be good insurance.

Also, you mention you are a daily driver, but only a "few" miles each way. Any car would need to be driven more than a few miles just to get the systems up to operating temperatures to ward off moisture accumulation. So you should take the car out for a good drive every few days or so, can't believe you won't want to spend time in the seat after you discover just how nice these cars are. Even stock, they have plenty of straight-line performance, so no concerns there.

Whatever your decision, a well performing C6 will provide you with plenty of smile per mile.

GD

 

GD,
Thank you for your help. I checked out Jim Mero’s website and the New Tour/Sport sounds right up my alley. Very confident after watching video that I’ll be installing a replacement module myself. (Not Near MI or SC where Jim is).
Didn’t know about the harmonic balancer issue. How to test?
Yes, I am leaning more towards the 3LT.
Thanks

 

Just look at it and see if it wobbles. There are examples on YouTube of what level of wobble is acceptable. The one with a cam may have had the HB replaced already, it's a common thing to do while the front of the engine is apart. The 3LT one sounds like a winner.

 

You can just look and listen to the HB. If you hear a belt chirp or it has any perceptible wobble it's starting to go.
The clutch MC is still under warranty for another year or so.

The manual trans GS has the dry sump oil system which holds 10.5 quarts of oil and takes a long time to warm up. In my 20 minute commute it never gets warm enough to get on it in the mornings. Summer evenings it does just about the time I get home. Not a deal breaker, just a reason to take the long way home.

 

Interesting point. I have an air-cooled 911 which as you probably know is a dry sum oil system too. In the winter, it does take a while to get it warm with its 10-11 quarts of oil.
Is there an oil temperature gauge on the Corvette Grand Sport?

For grins, I just mapped out house to office. It is about 12 minutes and 4.1 miles. I’m never in a hurry and actually have to putt-putt through two long school zones. Your idea of the long way from time to time can include a little run on the highway and sounds like a dang good idea.

I’ll look on the forum regarding the clutch master cylinder problems.

Appreciate you guys!

 

Yes there is in a sense. You can get it where the mileage is when you scroll to it. Here is the dash on my 2013 GS.

 

You can also see the oil temp in the HUD.
What do you mean by a "shift kit" in the second car ? I thought you said they both were manuals ?
As far as the ride quality goes, if either car still has runflats you can swap over to "regular" tires for a huge improvement in ride quality and noise. You should carry a mini air compressor and plug kit, but it is a small price to pay.

 

IMO......Low miles or not, 5 owners & those mods. Not for me. You don't know what that car has been put through. Buy a stock C6 & then do the mods you want. JMO....

 

5 owners, pass. Engine mods (cam) pass, but that's just me.

Plenty of low mile, low owner unmolested C6's out there so keep looking, or at least I would.

 

I would go with the 3LT.

Also, curious as to the "shift kit" for a manual trans car?

 

The manual shift mechanism is not stock in the 3LT. Not sure whose shifter it is. The shift handle is red and I can't remember the logo on it.
Yes, I should of clarified as I know "shift kit" is usually referencing auto trannys. The non-factory shift mechanism did not feel so far removed from stock. My buddy has a c5 with a non-factory shift mechanism and it is extremely stiff to move between gears, so much he's thinking of swapping it out to factory.

 

Ah, got it. Non-factory shifter. Sound like if may be an MGW shifter. If so, those are really nice. You could always switch back to a stock shifter.

I would still go with the 3LT. Even if it has a small cam, you could go back to a stock cam also.

 

here's a photo of the shifter:

 

Yup, MGW shifter which is pretty much the best aftermarket shifter there is IMHO. I have the MGW shifter that uses the stock shifter **** and looks stock.

If you purchase this car and decide to go back to stock, you can easily sell this shifter in the classifieds section. MGW shifters sell quickly.

The rest of the cars options such as 3LT which should have the HUD (heads up display) and the mag ride are big pluses.

 

3LT for me. Too many owners and too many mods on the other one. The Mero upgrade makes a HUGE difference in ride comfort, even in sport mode. I haven't been in a non mag ride car to compare.

You'll want the MGW shifter. It is very good and very popular here. It also helps with the sometimes-dodgy 2 -> 3 shift. MGW is stiffer and centers the shifter quickly and firmly. In these cars you really need to just push "up" when doing that shift and let the springs do the "over". Steering the shifter up, over, up tends to lead to grinding.

 

Hey there Crahm,

I just arrived in South Carolina. However, I can program and ship modules from either location. Thanks again.

Jim

 

Hey fellow members, just so you know, per the recommendation earlier in this thread regarding upgrading the ECU that controls the magnetic ride, I reached out to Jim Mero Sunday asking a couple questions and received an excellent, thorough answer this morning. If I purchase a F55 magnetic ride car, I'm definitely changing the ECU to Jim's Tour/sport mode to smoothen up the daily drive on bumpy roads.

 

With the 100th Centennial Edition - how are the suede seats and steering wheel wearing?

 

It is a synthetic called Alcantara and wears like iron & shouldn't be a problem. My 2013 uses it on the steering wheel & shifter ****, but not on the seat inserts.

GD