Replace shocks
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Replace shocks
I have a 2009 corvette with soft ride shocks. I want to replace them,can I replace them with ZO6 shocks and sway bars. Or should I go coil overs? Any help would be awesome.Soft ride sucks,to soft for me.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
Spend the extra $100 and get Bilsteins if you're going the shocks and swaybars route. There is a reason Bilstein are popular with the Z06 crowd when they replace shocks.
Either way, you won't be sorry with shocks and sways, they change the base ride greatly for the better. No more wallowing through the corners like your dad's Cadillac, but nice and flat like a sports car should.
Either way, you won't be sorry with shocks and sways, they change the base ride greatly for the better. No more wallowing through the corners like your dad's Cadillac, but nice and flat like a sports car should.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
This will get you up to Z51 set up, but will flatter in the corners due the stiffer dampening of the DRM shocks
Trying to go Z06 set up, will not end well on the base cars, since you don't have the wide body panels need to get the needed wider rims and tires on the car for more tire traction to make that set up work well, short of running R compound tires on the street.
Hence may feel like you can corner better on parking lot tracks that are smooth at lower speeds (car dam near pan'd), but get into the rougher tarmac at speeds, and the car will be all over the road instead.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,924
Likes: 392
From: Atlanta - - - - - Save the manuals
Hope this helps a little ...
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Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 239
From: Sun City West, AZ
Which Bilstein shock did you put on your car? The B4s or the B6s? The Koni Yellow single or doubles would have been a better shock for the street and some spirited driving or autocrossing.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
The B6 and B8 Bilstins will both fit any C6. The biggest difference is the B8's are about 20% stiffer. The only actual difference between the two shocks is valving.
B6 are recommended for "premium street performance".
B8 are recommended for premium street perforance, autocross, track "and" for cars that have been lowered.
The reason you want to run B8's on a lowered car is they will not bottom out as easily as the B6 because they are stiffer.
Bottom line, on a C6 they are the exact same shock with different valving. The B8 will give you improved performance at the cost of some ride quality.
If you want to go stiffer than B8's you want the Bilstien DRM's.
Adding polyurethane bushings to any of the above mentioned shocks will stiffen the ride further.
I've driven a C6 with all three versions at one time or other. I'm one of those guys that will sacrifice a little comfort for improved handling. My C6 is currently running DRM's and they are stiff. If I was only driving on the street I'd go with the B8's.
Hope that helps.
B6 are recommended for "premium street performance".
B8 are recommended for premium street perforance, autocross, track "and" for cars that have been lowered.
The reason you want to run B8's on a lowered car is they will not bottom out as easily as the B6 because they are stiffer.
Bottom line, on a C6 they are the exact same shock with different valving. The B8 will give you improved performance at the cost of some ride quality.
If you want to go stiffer than B8's you want the Bilstien DRM's.
Adding polyurethane bushings to any of the above mentioned shocks will stiffen the ride further.
I've driven a C6 with all three versions at one time or other. I'm one of those guys that will sacrifice a little comfort for improved handling. My C6 is currently running DRM's and they are stiff. If I was only driving on the street I'd go with the B8's.
Hope that helps.
Pro
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 553
Likes: 97
DRM's are fantastic! They are essentially the same as Bilstein Sports with more jounce (upward control, I could be wrong, the exact valving I'm not sure of). In any event, on my C6Z and C5 /w Z51 they are amazing. The C6Z stock shocks are rather flighty in comparison.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 377
Likes: 105
From: Boulder, CO
I have to agree that for a Base C6, the DRM/Bilsteins and the Z51 Bars are a great combination. I have looked for an FE3 Front Composite Spring on eBay. I'm not ready to spend for a new one, because I don't have plans to Track the car this year.
And the ride is now stiff enough for my needs. I don't think I would enjoy replacing all of the bushings with stiffer polyurethane or delrin.
Also, changing out the stock Mag ride shocks for the DRMs was relatively easy. I have worked with coil-overs before, and they are simply much more difficult and dangerous for a shadetree/driveway modification enthusiast.
If you shop for a used FE3 Front Spring, Dano can provide the exact part number that you need. Without the correct number, it might be very easy to waste your money.
And the ride is now stiff enough for my needs. I don't think I would enjoy replacing all of the bushings with stiffer polyurethane or delrin.
Also, changing out the stock Mag ride shocks for the DRMs was relatively easy. I have worked with coil-overs before, and they are simply much more difficult and dangerous for a shadetree/driveway modification enthusiast.
If you shop for a used FE3 Front Spring, Dano can provide the exact part number that you need. Without the correct number, it might be very easy to waste your money.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,502
Likes: 3,631
Two different FE3 front trans springs, and it comes down to if the car is M6, or A6, since the A6 Fe3 spring is slightly stiffer due to the added weight of the auto trans.
Again, the reason for the slightly stiffer front spring (fe1 to Fe3) is if you are breaking hard coming into a corner, Fe1 spring will weight transfer too much to the front end to dive it too much. If all your doing it gliding country road curves, then Fe1 spring may be better for you instead.
And again, if the suspension is too firm for the tire grip in play, will not end well at speed.
Here is the proving ground corner for suspension set up, where the car needs to hold the banked concrete inner line (smooth it is not so you need wheel travel as well) for the faster way around this corner, and if the suspension is too tight for tire grip in play in the chatter, stand no chance in hell holding that line at speed, much less not ending up in the guard rail as you slide out of the banked line and up the not banked asphalt side instead.
Again, the reason for the slightly stiffer front spring (fe1 to Fe3) is if you are breaking hard coming into a corner, Fe1 spring will weight transfer too much to the front end to dive it too much. If all your doing it gliding country road curves, then Fe1 spring may be better for you instead.
And again, if the suspension is too firm for the tire grip in play, will not end well at speed.
Here is the proving ground corner for suspension set up, where the car needs to hold the banked concrete inner line (smooth it is not so you need wheel travel as well) for the faster way around this corner, and if the suspension is too tight for tire grip in play in the chatter, stand no chance in hell holding that line at speed, much less not ending up in the guard rail as you slide out of the banked line and up the not banked asphalt side instead.
Last edited by Dano523; Mar 30, 2022 at 12:56 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 65
Likes: 9
From: Wake Forest NC
I have a base suspension car, and did as Dano523 and others said. DRM shocks, Z51 front spring and Z51 sway bars. I didn't do poly bushings, but the handling is MUCH improved over stock. Going by memory Shocks were ~450. Pre-owned spring ~120. Sways from Cultrag ~275. Installed myself. Front spring is a PIA, other parts easy.