So I’ve been having hot start issues which I put down to the starter being right next to my turbo downpipe.
I’ve since wrapped the downpipe and installed a thick exhaust blanket next to the starter but fear the damage is already done on that starter.

I purchased a new starter from rock auto but when I installed it all I get is continuous clicking.
I reinstalled the old starter and it worked fine again, how strange.
so today I re fitted the new starter after my battery was charging all night and it started but then would start again and went back to the clicking.

I checked the battery and it was 13.3v at the battery and the dic showed 12.2v. The battery is only 6 months old and is a 64ah 640a so meets the criteria.

any ideas please?

 

Sounds like you got a defective starter. I ordered a remanufactured AC delco for my z06 from
rockauto and it was defective. Got one off of Amazon and it works fine. I suggest returning it.

 

Thank you, that’s what I’m thinking.
the annoying thing is that I bought it in February and only just got round to fitting it.
although it does have a warranty they say I have to pay to ship it back and then half the hopping for the new one. As I’m in the U.K. that’s going to be close to $100 for something that is not my fault at all. Really annoying to say the least.

 

Yikes, man. That really sucks. At this point you are better off chalking it up as a loss and ordering a new one from Amazon. The starter alone from Amazon will cost as much as shipping yours back.

 

Bendex problem, and would dare to guess that the old's units bendex is not the same the replacement ones.

So on that note, take a measurement of the gears from the somewhere on the starter body, pull the bendex out like it going to fully engaged, and take another measurement.

Best guess, is the new unit is actuly engauging the flywheel gears during install, instead of having the from for the bendex to free fire, before it goes to engage the flywheel gears. And normaly, its the other way around, with the starter firing, but staying engaged when the motor is running instead (bendex gears come not retract back far enough to disengage instead).

As for starter, easy enough to pull it apart to clean it up and re-grease it, and just swap out the solenoid on it for $20 isntead. Hence heat problem is back cap on the solenoid is bakelite, and will snap off the terminal lug if it over heated and becomes brittle instead. Also, slow start problem when hot, it not about the starter, but it;s grounding back to the battery instead. If you take a look at the engine block ground point for negative cable above the starter on wet sump motor, it and the the grounding of the starter motor to the bell housing, it often the over heat connection problem. Hence bolt will expand when they get hot, as well as the aluminum surface oxidizing to cause problems as well.

So starter is getting it's ground back to the battery from the bolts through the starter/contact pads to the bell housing pads, so these are areas that a little 400grit sanding comes in handy to make sure that the grounding patch is still good/not anodized as the metal bolt do head up and start to loosen.
Note, make sure that the bolt washers are clean as well.

To add, nothing wrong with adding a cable between the starter mounting bolts, back to the engine ground on wet sump /chassis ground in dry sump car cable as well. This solves the problem of grounding through the aluminum parts of the car that can be a problem as they heat up or oxidizes.