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I got all 3 corners done, then the front passenger head stripped on me. Anyone got some advice on how to get those bad boy turning again? I got two nuts (lol) I found that thread, and I tried using them against each other to turn the bushing bolt but both nuts turn, even when I tighten them against each other as hard as I can. Do they need to be opposite threads?
Also, the front turns off the same way as the rear, right? As in - if I'm sitting at the passenger front wheel, I'll turn the bolt clockwise to "raise" the car. I'm not trying to lower it. It's currently max lowered. Running out of ideas here other than to weld a nut to the top of it. But I don't have a welder, so id need to buy one.
First of all, a 6mm would be way too small, the correct size to try to hammer on would be 3/8, as the normal size is 10mm. Yes, the fonts turn the same way as the rear. I don't think a welder is necessary. Using 2 nuts should work, maybe you're not doing it right. Use 2 nuts of the same thread as the adjuster. The idea is to tighten the 2 nuts together, then put a wrench on the bottom nut if you want to screw the adjuster up, or the top nut it you want to screw it down. I would expect the threaded insert in the spring to turn before the nuts slipped. Also, it looks like the rubber on the adjuster is getting pretty rough, might want to consider replacing it. Another thing you can do if the hex isn't too bad is to file it down a bit so a slightly smaller socket will fit
I had this happen on mine when we originally lowered it. As much of a pain as it is, save yourself the trouble and just unhook the top a arm and sway bar, then take the spring out and do it on the bench. We were able to get a good set of vice grips on it and heat it up and it turned right out. Luckily you only have to undo one side to get the spring out. Not necessarily hard just time consuming. Best of luck!
A little tough but have you tried PB Blaster and a pair of vice grips? I replaced mine because one of them broke and I wound up drilling thru the bolt to remove it. Good luck.
Do you have the upper control arm, shock and tie rod disconnected? Then turn the leaf spring bolt from the top like you’re going to tighten it, because it comes out through the bottom.
First of all, a 6mm would be way too small, the correct size to try to hammer on would be 3/8, as the normal size is 10mm. Yes, the fonts turn the same way as the rear. I don't think a welder is necessary. Using 2 nuts should work, maybe you're not doing it right. Use 2 nuts of the same thread as the adjuster. The idea is to tighten the 2 nuts together, then put a wrench on the bottom nut if you want to screw the adjuster up, or the top nut it you want to screw it down. I would expect the threaded insert in the spring to turn before the nuts slipped. Also, it looks like the rubber on the adjuster is getting pretty rough, might want to consider replacing it. Another thing you can do if the hex isn't too bad is to file it down a bit so a slightly smaller socket will fit
the two nuts then just act like a single nut and keep working their way down the shaft when I tried this. Filing it down was an option I thougt of too
Originally Posted by ls1121
A little tough but have you tried PB Blaster and a pair of vice grips? I replaced mine because one of them broke and I wound up drilling thru the bolt to remove it. Good luck.
Yeah that's how the top got so mauled up. Vice grips just chewed right through the metal before turning it
Originally Posted by JUICEBOX
Do you have the upper control arm, shock and tie rod disconnected? Then turn the leaf spring bolt from the top like you’re going to tighten it, because it comes out through the bottom.
No it's all still together. I considered taking the shock out but haven't gotten to that point yet
Take a dremal and cut a slot in the top for a driver
or file down the sides to a smaller sized socket. Pull the strut out of the way and remove/replace the bolt
as someone else pointed out the rubber on yours is pancaked you’ll want to put some new ones in
I had to remove my spring and put a large pipe wrench on the bottom pad of the bolt to get it to turn. This was after days of soaking in PB blaster. It doesnt take long to remove the spring and will save you time in the long run.
Removed the shock, tried to go at it from the top. Nothin, just stripped even more. Leaning more towards welding at this point? And to confirm, this needs to be turned CLOCKWISE to get the bottom cup to push out (raise the car)...?
Looks to me like there is plenty of meat there for a 6 point 10mm socket to drive that screw. What kind of wrench/socket are you using? Threads are right hand just like most everything else.
From: Henderson Nv-Rohnert Park/Sonoma C o. ca/born in NY Rockaway Beach.
Silly question. But do you have pressure off of the bolt from the spring? By raising the spring up to release the pressure.
Doesn’t look like it in your pic.
Looks to me like there is plenty of meat there for a 6 point 10mm socket to drive that screw. What kind of wrench/socket are you using? Threads are right hand just like most everything else.
6 side and 12 side 10mm just spin freely - 9mm wont quite fit. I tried hammering it on but it just stripped too when I started applying pressure
Originally Posted by ptroxx
Silly question. But do you have pressure off of the bolt from the spring? By raising the spring up to release the pressure.
Doesn’t look like it in your pic.
Yeah there is, I can fit my finger under the padlet. The jacks pushing up on the leaf spring in that pic just kind of hard to see.
Removed the shock, tried to go at it from the top. Nothin, just stripped even more. Leaning more towards welding at this point? And to confirm, this needs to be turned CLOCKWISE to get the bottom cup to push out (raise the car)...?
yes, clockwise from the top like you’re tightening it to drive it through the bottom, I would say heat it up with a torch but you’ll most likely twist it. Weld a nut on top of it, but you’ll have to hacksaw it off to get it to come through.
Threw in the towel on it. I came up with this monstrosity. Back against the wall and leg pressed it and then the entire leaf spring started turning. Not up and down, no the leaf spring started twisting back like it would sheer. I guess my cars staying maxed low until it's taken in for the rear main seal. At that point I'll have them replace all 4 - the front driver has ZERO bushing left, it's just the metal base. Threw some grease on it for the meantime. I left the back up, slight rake now . Gained about an inch of height in the rear.
Stuck leaf spring bolt , need help
