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I purchased a LS2 C6 with 46k miles that on the carfax had only been driven ~4k since 2009 a few weeks ago and drove a cool 1,000 miles since then mostly highway with a good amount of spirited driving. I noticed a squeak on startup yesterday 5/25 and later that night inspected the balancer and noticed a wobble. This is my second car so its no big deal to let it sit but wanted to get your opinion on how severe the wobble is and if i should let it sit until the day I drive to a shop to replace it. I already ordered a PowerBond PB1117N but most of the shops here in ATL are a bit busy (buyavette is booked out until OCT & LSXperts until late June). Otherwise I absolutely LOVE the car coming from a FRC C5. In addition if any one in the ATL area has any recs for good shops I'm open to your feedback!
Most on here will say just drive it, I posted the exact same question and dilemma as you and most said just drive it. Even though my wobble was very slight like yours, it was a secondary car for me and I decided to park it just to be on the safe side. I'm glad I did, I finally got to my appointment a month later for the shop to replace the balancer and the mechanic showed me the rubber between the inner and outer HB was half torn already and could have completely separated while driving:
Looking at your picture, you can see where yours is already pretty worn on the rubber towards the top of the picture.
and here's the new ATI balancer with ARP bolt, runs perfect:
Oof yeah - I think ours are looking a little similar. I just replaced the dry rotted Michelins and put on a set of Continental Extreme Contact Sports today and the ride is INSANELY better and my girlfriend and I are driving 4 hours to Hilton Head this weekend but I suppose I'll have to take the daily instead.
You don't need a corvette specialty shop to swap a balancer. Just a reputable shop.
Add a timing cover seal to your parts list. And check belts, idler pulleys and belt tensioner to see if those are good to replace while in there.
I hear ya and thank you for the advice I'll pick up a timing cover seal as well. Only reason I thought about a special shop is I called probably 10-15 locally owned "auto service/auto repair" shops and 90% of them were like "we can't do that here."
It is just small block chevy in a Corvette. it might think it is in a Chevette because it is still a small block chevy. Hope that made you laugh and realize to not over think about a special shop because it is a Corvette. There are Plenty of good shops that will repair it for you.
I have heard and read in our shops Mitchell service manual that the balancer wobble can be accentuated by an optical illusion. Not to say yours isnt, im sure it is. I have no squeaks yet but already have the parts and plan to do the swap next month. Sooner you do it the better, it can wobble so hard it shakes apart your crank bearings, and thats a big problem. If you would like to check, a Run-out guage can be purchased pretty cheap, slide it on the rear most rib to get a reading.
I was 55 and did it on my back, with jackstands, in my driveway with basic hand and air tools.
It ain't no rocket science......just unbolting stuff and putting it back together.
Theoretically sure. But reality it's never that simple. There's usually something else like a bolt that get's stripped or shears, a tool that doesn't work as intended, a seized part that doesn't budge, removing something and damaging another on accident, dropping something and it grows legs and walks away...Very rarely does something go as per intended or planned when working on a 10,15,20+ year old car!!!
Like most (all?) things here, be aware there is debate on use of the OEM torque-to-yield bolt or an ARP bolt. The shop that did the replacement on mine (located in Anna, TX) recommended using only the OEM bolt since mine, like most, is an engine that won't be pulled apart regularly. Hopefully, replacing the HB with a reputable aftermarket part (I went with an ATI) is a one-time thing, so there's no need for the ARP bolt. After all, it's not the OEM bolt that causes failure of the OEM part. Many will say it's only an additional $15 or so to get the ARP bolt, but there have also been reports of them backing out over time.
I'm FAR from the expert here, so others who are will hopefully chime in.
Theoretically sure. But reality it's never that simple. There's usually something else like a bolt that get's stripped or shears, a tool that doesn't work as intended, a seized part that doesn't budge, removing something and damaging another on accident, dropping something and it grows legs and walks away...Very rarely does something go as per intended or planned when working on a 10,15,20+ year old car!!!
I agree. working on cars sucks....especially older ones. Thanks to that thing called The Internet with write-ups and videos on how to fix just about anything.
Sure things happen...but that doesn't preclude me from doing myself and the $ savings and satisfaction of a job done right.
Like most (all?) things here, be aware there is debate on use of the OEM torque-to-yield bolt or an ARP bolt. The shop that did the replacement on mine (located in Anna, TX) recommended using only the OEM bolt since mine, like most, is an engine that won't be pulled apart regularly. Hopefully, replacing the HB with a reputable aftermarket part (I went with an ATI) is a one-time thing, so there's no need for the ARP bolt. After all, it's not the OEM bolt that causes failure of the OEM part. Many will say it's only an additional $15 or so to get the ARP bolt, but there have also been reports of them backing out over time.
I'm FAR from the expert here, so others who are will hopefully chime in.
Last I checked, the OE bolt is about $5....the ARP about $35. If I gotta do the job a second time, I will just get another $5 bolt and still be ahead $25,
I agree. working on cars sucks....especially older ones. Thanks to that thing called The Internet with write-ups and videos on how to fix just about anything.
Sure things happen...but that doesn't preclude me from doing myself and the $ savings and satisfaction of a job done right.
People pay $1500+ for this job. If I did it again?....6 hours and a 100 bucks for P1117N HB and seal.
Spend that $130 an hour labor rate you are paying a mechanic who doesn't give a crap about your car on decent tools and the knowledge to DIY.
Shop here will do the HB for 4 hours labor charge. Very well known shop too for LS engines. Worth every penny. If people pay more than that they're getting A. ripped off, and B. people working on their car who got no idea what they're doing so that's on them.
Replace the balancer NOW! My balancer worked its way backward over time and the outer ring contacted the block and damaged the timing cover and oil pan.
I do my own work and this is a fairly easy job, IMHO. Your biggest problem will be getting the correct torque on the HB bolt, as it is higher than most normally sized torque wrenches can achieve.
Did the HB on my '05 with 35K miles on it. Wobble was minimal but the belt was squeaking. Did it myself with help from my son. Not a terrible project but as mentioned for the torque on the new bolt you'll need a 250 lb. torque wrench. For a few dollars more why would you not get the ARP bolt?? You're only going to do this once, don't skimp. Get the PowerBond balancer for around $200 from Rock Auto, new seal, ARP bolt. Borrow a Chrysler style puller from your local Auto Zone. Find a 250 ft.lb. torque wrench and add a length of pipe to it to help you reach the #240 lb. you need. Replace the serpentine belt also. Removing the rack is the worst part of the job but it just takes time.
LS2 C6 Harmonic Balancer Question
