Amp protect mode
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From: NorCal
Amp protect mode
So when i bought my c6 it came with subs and an amp installed, since then the amp had needed to be replaced, also i replaced the 2 rear speakers due to one being blown, i just replaced the amp and it was working but now its just staying in protect mode, i also noticed that my interior lights were pulsating a bit. Any ideas????
Drifting
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Would help if we knew what equipment you were working with. Pulsating lights can mean several things - bad ground, low voltage (either bad battery, not enough power from alternator, too thin gauge of amp wiring, etc)...
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From: NorCal
Subs: RE Audio SL10D4 which from what ive found are an older model but i believe they are 4ohm and 300 or 350 watt
New Rear speakers are Memphis audio prx02 i believe and they are like 50watts
and i just got a Kicker cx660 amp which should be plenty of power to run what i have it says their max is like 1320watts
and they can run 2ohm or 4ohm
I can double check all this but if my memory is correct thats what ive got and then the stock speakers up front
New Rear speakers are Memphis audio prx02 i believe and they are like 50watts
and i just got a Kicker cx660 amp which should be plenty of power to run what i have it says their max is like 1320watts
and they can run 2ohm or 4ohm
I can double check all this but if my memory is correct thats what ive got and then the stock speakers up front
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From: NorCal
Also the battery is damn near brand new...
Not sure exactly what gauge the wire is but from my past vehicles with subs and amps it looks to be the right size i can check it though. Ill add to this when i do, but if anyone can help me with the info i have provided that would be much appreciated. Also did a little test i came across on the net, it said to disconnect the speaker and sub wires from the amp and then turn it on and see if it was still in protect mode, which would tell you, (me), or whoever that it is a problem with the power side of things as opposed to a bad speaker/sub or one or multiple bad connections to any of either of those, and my result seems to be exactly that, a power issue of some sort, if this test is accurate that is. Any help is appreciated.
Not sure exactly what gauge the wire is but from my past vehicles with subs and amps it looks to be the right size i can check it though. Ill add to this when i do, but if anyone can help me with the info i have provided that would be much appreciated. Also did a little test i came across on the net, it said to disconnect the speaker and sub wires from the amp and then turn it on and see if it was still in protect mode, which would tell you, (me), or whoever that it is a problem with the power side of things as opposed to a bad speaker/sub or one or multiple bad connections to any of either of those, and my result seems to be exactly that, a power issue of some sort, if this test is accurate that is. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by ITSMFPOPPIN_13; Sep 1, 2022 at 05:00 PM.
Drifting
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I would try a different ground for your amp and see if that helps. Your amps likely going into protect mode due to it hitting the low voltage cutoff protection feature which I know those kicker amps have. If you have some spare good quality 4gauge wire, wouldn't hurt to run a line from the battery neg, straight to the amp. Completely bypass a frame ground - just to test if you're still getting voltage drop (indicated by dimming lights). If it's still dimming, then it's an amp issue, or power delivery (bad wiring kit, alternator, battery, etc...) If it doesn't dim then you had/have a bad ground connection.
Amp wiring have any branding on it or is it a no name? Cheaper no-name off brands often cut corners with the amount of strands, or wire material to save money and that can really bottle neck an amps efficiency.
Amp wiring have any branding on it or is it a no name? Cheaper no-name off brands often cut corners with the amount of strands, or wire material to save money and that can really bottle neck an amps efficiency.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2017
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From: Romeoville, IL
Yep I seen amp installs where people use to small of a gauge wire and the amp goes into protected mode or turns off. Make sure who ever did that as the above person said is not pulling power off something else. Make sure the power line runs off the cars battery. Signal\amp turn on wire should be the only coming from the back of the radio. Also you may have to add a capacitor to the power line. Some of cars that I did with high profile power amps always pulsed the lights until a capacitor was put inline.
Drifting
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Capacitors are like the corvette equivalent of brake caliper covers. They serve no real purpose other than for looks and 'ooh ahh's' . They're basically just another battery for the alternator to need to charge. Better off spending that money in a higher quality battery, or big 3, or towards a higher output alt imho.
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From: NorCal
Ok thank you guys for the tips i will check for a brand on the wire, and definitely do the grnd from battery directly to amp and see how that goes. I appreciate all the info and im thinkin this may be exactly what i need to do. Ill let yall know after i try this/these things out.
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From: NorCal
Update: did the ground to battery directly as suggested and its still in protect mode, im beyond frustrated at this point and as much as id rather do the work myself, idk what the issue is so im gunna just take it to a car audio place and have them do it. Thanks for the tips tho.✌🏻
Drifting
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Update: did the ground to battery directly as suggested and its still in protect mode, im beyond frustrated at this point and as much as id rather do the work myself, idk what the issue is so im gunna just take it to a car audio place and have them do it. Thanks for the tips tho.✌🏻
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From: NorCal
2 questions: 1. Would my positive wire being pinched be a possible cause for the protect mode issue? And 2. When i ran the new grnd i connected it to the existing one, should i just run the new one directly from amp to battery?
Le Mans Master
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From: Billings Montana. Out in the wild west
Ideally you want to ground the amp close to the amp, here's some wording from the Kicker amps installation instructions:
Make the ground wire short, 24” (60cm) or less, and connect it to a paint-and-corrosion-free, solid, metal area of the vehicle’s chassis.
According to the owners manual for your amp, you should be using 4 gauge wire for both the power and ground wires. anything smaller could cause issues, also make sure your speakers are hooked up correctly (i.e. positive to positive and negative to negative) and make sure the Ohm rating of the speaker matches the Ohm rating of the amp, all this info can be found in the owners manual for the amp, if you don't have the owners manual, you can find it here. https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/Im...20646CX66T.PDF
Last edited by madsonp; Sep 7, 2022 at 01:26 AM.
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From: NorCal
Thanks for that info, im using 4 gauge for both wires and speakers are hooked up correctly, ill get that positive rerouted cuz u make a good point about it grounding out, there is a fuse wired into it as u mentioned there should be, the one thing im not 100% on is the speakee ohms ill look into that. Thnx again
Drifting
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Thanks for that info, im using 4 gauge for both wires and speakers are hooked up correctly, ill get that positive rerouted cuz u make a good point about it grounding out, there is a fuse wired into it as u mentioned there should be, the one thing im not 100% on is the speakee ohms ill look into that. Thnx again
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Out back
1) Take some pictures of where you think the concerns are
2) That amp is a hybrid A/B for 4 channel and D for the mono channel. A/B requires clean power and everything to be correctly sized.
a) If you suspect wiring, ensure that it's good OFC wire, and NOT (repeat NOT) CCA wire. CCA can rust internally can cause all sorts of issues similar to what you're experiencing.
b) My biggest suspicion is the use of factory speakers. Depending on year, some drivers in C6's are 8 ohm. This will without a doubt cause issues with the A/B side of that amp.
c) Ensure the ground does NOT go to the negative on the battery...especially an A/B amp. They need a large, clean chassis ground (at least in my experience with them).
3) Be careful running too much current on your main battery circuit, the alternator/starter wire is only 6 gauge (more like 8 on the inside) and a 60A fused circuit. I've popped this several times already. Only way to bypass is run an isolated "BIG3" upgrade.
Standing by for some pics.
2) That amp is a hybrid A/B for 4 channel and D for the mono channel. A/B requires clean power and everything to be correctly sized.
a) If you suspect wiring, ensure that it's good OFC wire, and NOT (repeat NOT) CCA wire. CCA can rust internally can cause all sorts of issues similar to what you're experiencing.
b) My biggest suspicion is the use of factory speakers. Depending on year, some drivers in C6's are 8 ohm. This will without a doubt cause issues with the A/B side of that amp.
c) Ensure the ground does NOT go to the negative on the battery...especially an A/B amp. They need a large, clean chassis ground (at least in my experience with them).
3) Be careful running too much current on your main battery circuit, the alternator/starter wire is only 6 gauge (more like 8 on the inside) and a 60A fused circuit. I've popped this several times already. Only way to bypass is run an isolated "BIG3" upgrade.
Standing by for some pics.
Le Mans Master
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From: Out back
Almost all of their subs appear to be DVC. This presents another way to wire incorrectly, however with a SINGLE sub it's hard to wire it incorrectly unless it's a dual 2 ohm sub. It could then go down to 1 ohm if wired wrong, but those Kicker amps are 1 ohm stable (at least the monos are...that's what I run now)
Drifting
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Almost all of their subs appear to be DVC. This presents another way to wire incorrectly, however with a SINGLE sub it's hard to wire it incorrectly unless it's a dual 2 ohm sub. It could then go down to 1 ohm if wired wrong, but those Kicker amps are 1 ohm stable (at least the monos are...that's what I run now)
Le Mans Master
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From: Out back
His amp is only rated for 2ohm at 300 and 4ohm at 150 x1 - doesn't list a 1ohm specification. that being said though, it would probably still run at 1ohm at least for a little bit before going into protect i'd imagine. Fact it's going into protect without the subs attached still makes me think it's still some sort of power delivery issue especially since he stated it's a newer amp.