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I have a base 2006 Corvette with 38K miles. When I drive the car the battery discharges. When parked the car is always on a tender. When I go to drive the car the tender will say Full Charge. Or 97% Charged.Allways a high number. Then I will take the car out for a drive and when I bring it back and hook it up to the tender it will say something like 65% charged. Or 43% charged.Or some such number. The longer I drive it the lower the charge will be. I'm afraid to drive very far fearing the battery will completly discharge. I checked the battery with a multi-tester and with everything turned off and the engine not running the read-out is 12.55 with everything turned off and the engine running the read-out is 14.00. I took the car to the dealer and they replaced the Fuse Block and installed a new battery. (Cost $620) This did not fix the problem. Does anyone have any idea's ? What should I check ? I'm not a great mechenic but can do most basic tasks. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Why would you not take the car back and at least ask for your money back? Did they say that replacing the fuse block and battery would fix the problem? Do they not warrant their work and parts?
In any case, sure sounds like there’s a problem with the charging system. Either the alternator itself, or the duty cycle is not being commanded properly, or wiring from the alternator, or alternator not grounded properly.
It may be a bad diode in the alternator. A corroded or defective alternator diode will faultily continue charging the circuit even when the car off. This, in turn, will drain your car battery.
On my 1970 BB I had the same problem. Found out that the alternator had a winding broke. It would charge. But it was not supplying enough voltage to keep the battery charged up.
Not supplying enough current, not voltage. It was charging at 13.8 volts, I think. But it could not supply enough current to keep it charged.
A corroded battery connection could do the same thing. Make sure the connections are clean. Once terminals are installed on the battery, grease them. Grease prevents that corrosion buildup on the outside of battery connectors.
1. Check alternator.
2. Check battery connections for corrosion, also look at the cables to see if they are black. If they are cut back until you get to good copper, if it is too much replace cables.
3. Check grounds, also check the connection at the starter.
OP, I gave some suggestions in my post above, but didn’t really elaborate on them. The alternator case needs to be grounded, but there is no grounding wire for that. It depends on grounding through the mounting bracket. The bracket and case are aluminum, which do oxidize, so the points of contact between the alternator, bracket, and block need to be clean in order to provide good electrical contact. It’s pretty straightforward to remove the alternator and bracket and clean up the contact points, so you could start there and eliminate that possible problem. There should also be 0 ohms resistance between the case and the -ve battery terminal. Also check around with local parts stores like Autozone to see if they’ll test your alternator.
Thanks for your reply FatsWaller. Before the dealer replaced the battery and the fuse block the car would most of the time just click when I would try to start it. But sometimes it would start. I just never knew when it was goig to start and when it wasn't. The mechenic at the dealership said the fuse block was cracked. Thats why it was replaced. Again, thanks for your reply.
Thanks for your reply FatsWaller. Before the dealer replaced the battery and the fuse block the car would most of the time just click when I would try to start it. But sometimes it would start. I just never knew when it was goig to start and when it wasn't. The mechenic at the dealership said the fuse block was cracked. Thats why it was replaced. Again, thanks for your reply.
Some friendly suggestions, then. Always ask for the part that’s been replaced to be returned to you. This lessens the risk that they’re not replacing perfectly good parts, or not actually replacing anything, plus in this case you could ask to be shown the crack. And to go back to what I posted above, is it the case that you brought in your car, described the symptoms, and their diagnosis was to replace the battery and fuse block? If so, apparently that didn’t fix the problem, so what is their remedy? You paid good money and are still in the same boat.
Thanks everyone for your replies. You all have given me a long list of things to check. Hopefully one of them will be the answer. It's a pain having a beautiful convertable Corvette and not be able to drive it because I'm worried about the battery dying and stranding me some place. Thanks again everyone. Hopefully one day I can return the favor.