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I figure I've only got 4 ish weeks until it's time to put the car away. The car is going to be stored in a garage that isn't climate controlled. I've already tested the antifreeze. My plan is to put dryer sheets around the car in multiple places and set out mouse traps. Fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer. I will also pull the battery and put it on a maintainer in a garage that is somewhat climate controlled (never gets below freezing in this garage) and then put an indoor cover on the car. Is there anything else I need to do?
I figure I've only got 4 ish weeks until it's time to put the car away. The car is going to be stored in a garage that isn't climate controlled. I've already tested the antifreeze. My plan is to put dryer sheets around the car in multiple places and set out mouse traps. Fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer. I will also pull the battery and put it on a maintainer in a garage that is somewhat climate controlled (never gets below freezing in this garage) and then put an indoor cover on the car. Is there anything else I need to do?
Move to Florida’s west coast. Sell the snow blower.
Plenty of posts here on storing for winters. I'm up on the Canadian border and have been storing mine annually in an unheated pole barn once we see freezing weather in mid to late October. Then bring it back out in mid to late April since I picked it up in 2012. I don't pull the battery, just use a CTEK to maintain the battery and it always starts in the spring. The only additional things I do is inflate the tires up to 38 to 40 lbs after parking the tires on 2' x 2' horse stall mats laying on a tarp to keep moisture from collecting underneath the car. Then I stuff a couple stainless steel wool pads into each exhaust pipe to prevent mice or other critters from entering. The other things I do is call OnStar, Insurance and SiriusXM suspending or reducing services until I bring it back to life in the spring.
If you are removing the battery and not leaving the hood unlatched, make sure the fob key opens the hatch, and the pull tab opens the driver's door.
Change the oil and filter.
In addition to the stabilizer, I add a bottle of Techron. Add both to a mostly empty system so that when you fill up, it mixes into both tanks. Then drive for say at least 10 minutes so that the treated fuel is in all lines and injectors.
Put the dryer sheets (unscented) inside the car over all surfaces,.
Plug the exhaust tips with stainless steel pads to keep mice out.
Plug the area around the windshield wiper posts with dryer sheets because that's an entry point into the interior by way of the cabin air filter and ductwork.
I usually air up the tires to 36 psi.
If you are parking on concrete, park on 4 pieces of old carpet.
Leave it sleep. Don't start it unless you intend to drive and get everything properly warmed up. (I know you said you were pulling the battery).
Plan road trips.
Thanks guys. I'm pulling the battery because the garage it's going in isn't accessible during the winter after a few snows. I just feel better being able to check the battery maintainer. I stored an 06 GTO during winter and can't count the number of batteries that froze and cracked because the battery maintainer quit working or got unplugged and I didn't catch it. I'll leave the hood open slightly if the cover allows. I've already verified that both door pulls and the hatch key are operable.
Here in Minnesota I have followed all the storage tips FatsWaller has touched on. StainlessSteel wool in the exhaust tips works best to keep the vermin out. And use massive quantities of SCENTED drier sheets as it is the fragrance the rodents object to not the fabric. I also put a tennis ball at each corner of the hood to keep it open and unstressed before I throw a cover over it. And lastly, I always leave quantities of ‘mouse bait poison’ inside the storage building for the mice to enjoy before they even get to exploring the car. Best of luck !
Put the car on jack stands to get the wheels off the ground. Make some flat circular plates from plastic with a hole in the center that you can place on the stands to keep rodents from climbing the stands.
@MNcorvetteC6 I tried the scented sheets the first winter I had the car, and I swear almost 5 years later, I can still smell them. The smell was overpowering when I first got in the car the next spring, so I’m not repeating that experiment, but that’s just me. The whole dryer sheet thing is a bit controversial. Some folks claim they work, others say the mice use them to make nests. All I know from my own experience and practices is that while I know rodents do enter the garage, none have gotten into the interior of the car, and have left no ‘evidence’ under the hood that they’ve been in the engine compartment. But, I do lay the sheets out in there too. I don’t lay out bait because we once had mice in the house, laid out some bait, and some mice of course ate it and died in the house and that didn’t smell so good either until we found their corpses and removed them.
One thing I should have mentioned in my list above is the absolute importance of removing anything mice could eat from the interior. In fact, I take everything out - all papers, manuals, I mean everything. And the mats and rugs get vacuumed to remove any trace of food as much as possible. Try to get under the seats as well just in case something like a peanut’s hiding out there. You don’t want to give any hint food’s available inside.
Heavy poly plastic sheet under the car (keeps moisture from rising up and hitting the car). Also, increase tire pressures by 5 psi and adjust back in the spring. Stay Bill for gas (full tank). Battery maintainer. Windows up. Get a moisture control bag from your local hardware store (used commonly in closets) and in a plastic dish on the floor (so the moisture bag is not in contact with the carpet). Car should be put away clean and washed BUT DRY (drive it a bit after wash to drain water out of odd places). Don't put it away immediately after treating the interior (ie: VLR or other preservative) as the moisture could promote mold/mildew....let it dry out well. Cover and don't start it until spring.
Get a Car Capsule. No worrying about mice or moisture. Leave the windows open to circulate the air. If the power goes out, check to see the capsule reinflates properly. Have had a car capsule for fifteen years from November to April with no problems. West Central Indiana.
I will throw this out there. Change the oil before storage not after storage. I would rather have the engine sit in clean oil vs used oil. The very small amount of water absorption will be vaporize in the spring when the engine hits running temps.
I figure I've only got 4 ish weeks until it's time to put the car away. The car is going to be stored in a garage that isn't climate controlled. I've already tested the antifreeze. My plan is to put dryer sheets around the car in multiple places and set out mouse traps. Fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer. I will also pull the battery and put it on a maintainer in a garage that is somewhat climate controlled (never gets below freezing in this garage) and then put an indoor cover on the car. Is there anything else I need to do?
The last I heard, you should store it with less than a quarter tank so as to not sulpherize (probably not a real word) the gas level sensors.
Always at this time of year Mike Lundell has Corvette My Pillows on special. Forget the carpet and put these under your tires.
Make sure to plug the exhaust...I had a mouse crawl up there and pee on a piston and it wreaked havoc on the motor. It's fun to see them come flying out of the exhaust when you fire it up, though.
...I had a mouse crawl up there and pee on a piston and it wreaked havoc on the motor. It's fun to see them come flying out of the exhaust when you fire it up, though.