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Old Oct 26, 2022 | 10:40 AM
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Default Brake Fluid

How much brake fluid is required to do a complete flush on a 10 GS to include the ABS?
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Old Oct 26, 2022 | 12:45 PM
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It's been a few years since I did it (probably time to do it again!), I think I used a liter with some left over.
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 08:10 PM
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Mine was black, I used a turkey baster then refilled it. Took 3 times and it's crystal clear fluid now 👍
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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by seesixvette
Mine was black, I used a turkey baster then refilled it. Took 3 times and it's crystal clear fluid now 👍
Dont let just the turkey baster method give you a false sense of security - brake fluid does not move like clutch fluid and while the reservoir might be clean, movement within the long lines is minimal. You should do a baster method, then bleed brakes like recommended to actually get good fluid through everything.

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Old Oct 27, 2022 | 08:58 PM
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I'd say 6 pints.
Flush.
One pint per wheel.
One pint for ABS module.
One pint for the reservoir.

If on a budget 4 pints may suffice.
Yet murphy's law, you will always be one pint short.
Have fun.
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 01:03 AM
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I agree.......about 1 pint per wheel. Changed to cross drilled and slotted rotors, and decided to change the brake fluid while I was at it.
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 09:33 PM
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What power bleeder tank/pump/product brand/model is recommended for a one man complete brake flush job ?
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dzv69
What power bleeder tank/pump/product brand/model is recommended for a one man complete brake flush job ?
Motive.
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 10:30 PM
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One pint per wheel is a bit overkill but brake fluid is cheap. The rear have a much longer run than the fronts.

I do not worry about the ABS system. When it activates the small volume of fluid in the ABS system dilutes.

I am a fan of speed bleeders. They make it an easy one man job.
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 10:32 PM
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I'd have at least two quarts ready. How much you actually use is going to depend on a number of factors - including how "contaminated" the old fluid was.

One trick that can save some fluid is to fully depress all the pistons back into their bores on each caliper. If you do this - I would open the bleeder valve when you do so - thus avoiding pushing the dirtiest fluid back into the brake system). If the pads are fairly worn, and the caliper pistons are part of the way out - there is a fair amount of fluid in each bore - and it will take a fair bit of fluid to flush that older fluid out. If the pistons are fully seated - lots less fluid in each bore - so less fluid required to flush out.
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Old Oct 29, 2022 | 10:46 PM
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A better trick is to use a turkey baster or a syringe to suck out most of the dirty fluid in the brake reservoir before you start and replace with clean fluid.
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gsflyer2011
Motive.
Thanks. Any particular/specific model you prefer ? I was reading some reviews on a Motive model and some had trouble get the MC cap to fit/seal ?
Do these bleed each caliper separately at the caliper bleed screw or from the MC ? I've seen a YouTube with a model (not Motive) that connects a line to each caliper bleed screw, trigger pump extracts brake fluid from the caliper into an inline waste bottle, empty old fluid, top off MC fluid, repeat previous steps on each caliper until fluid runs clear.
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dzv69
Thanks. Any particular/specific model you prefer ? I was reading some reviews on a Motive model and some had trouble get the MC cap to fit/seal ?
Do these bleed each caliper separately at the caliper bleed screw or from the MC ? I've seen a YouTube with a model (not Motive) that connects a line to each caliper bleed screw, trigger pump extracts brake fluid from the caliper into an inline waste bottle, empty old fluid, top off MC fluid, repeat previous steps on each caliper until fluid runs clear.
YES - Sealing the pressure at the Master Cylinder CAN Be an issue with the Motive system (or any pressure bleeder system).

The Motive (and other similar systems) simply pressurize the Master Cylinder a bit (typically 10 - 15 psi) - so you can then open one bleeder valve (at the caliper) at a time and run brake fluid through the system. It works pretty well.

The systems that hook to the bleeder screw and pull a vacuum also work, but they tend to suck air in around the caliper bleeder screw. This air doesn't get into the brake system - but you get a continuous stream of bubbles so you have no idea when you're done bleeding.

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