Squealing Brakes
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
Squealing Brakes
Hi everyone,
So I just replaced my brakes and rotors on my 05’ with the stock Duralast replacements. Everything was done correctly with the right locktite, torque spec, and even brake lube where it was needed.
Every-time I come to a stop they squeal like crazy, it sounds like the wear indicator that’s on the brake pads, but that’s impossible since I put them in the right place and they’re new, so that metal wear indicator shouldn’t even be coming in contact with the rotor.
I even looked up the right way to “bed-in” the pads.
Any ideas?
So I just replaced my brakes and rotors on my 05’ with the stock Duralast replacements. Everything was done correctly with the right locktite, torque spec, and even brake lube where it was needed.
Every-time I come to a stop they squeal like crazy, it sounds like the wear indicator that’s on the brake pads, but that’s impossible since I put them in the right place and they’re new, so that metal wear indicator shouldn’t even be coming in contact with the rotor.
I even looked up the right way to “bed-in” the pads.
Any ideas?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 4,355
Likes: 2,633
From: Draper Utah
FWIW - this is the bedding procedure I use. Your mileage may vary...
Perform 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed).
This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Perform 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed).
This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
FWIW - this is the bedding procedure I use. Your mileage may vary...
Perform 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed).
This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Perform 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed).
This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 5,187
Likes: 1,216
From: Las Vegas Nevada
His problem does not sound like a bedding issue. Even people who do not bed new brakes do not often have squeaking or screeching. Possible shims are in wrong, or ???? Possible something got between caliper and rotor (dirt, metal, etc), and one or the other is mis-aligned? Or, maybe it was not bedded properly....
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 973
Likes: 268
From: Oro Valley Arizona
One thing to keep in mind brake noise comes from metal to metal. I E the back of the pad to the caliper. When the pad moves back and forth as you apply the brakes the vibration makes the noise. Check to see if the hardware is seated all the way into the caliper. Mine is a 2008 Z51 AT so the rotors are factory drilled and the pads are semi-metallic. So, I used Semi-Metallic pads with new rotors. My right rear continued to make noise. I ended up replacing the caliper and the noise was gone. I think the issue is a bad hub bearing allowing the rotor to shift a bit. Grease the caliper slides with good brake caliper grease. Also, just because the rotors are new does not mean that they are true. (Out of Round)
Hope that helps
Hope that helps
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
So quick update.
I ended up doing the process of bedding them, go up to 45 then brake to 10 (5x). Then go up to 35 and brake to 5 (5x) without letting them cool.
I then drive in the highway 100% no braking for 15 minutes.
I could still hear it squealing so I did the bedding process one more time. An then I did the highway one more time.
I can’t hear any more screeching, but I can hear the brake pad to rotor sound more, which isn’t a bad thing, and I even think they grab the rotor better.
I’ll try to pay attention more this week to see if it’s happening anymore and then I guess I’ll have to undo the caliper and take a look at the pads.
I ended up doing the process of bedding them, go up to 45 then brake to 10 (5x). Then go up to 35 and brake to 5 (5x) without letting them cool.
I then drive in the highway 100% no braking for 15 minutes.
I could still hear it squealing so I did the bedding process one more time. An then I did the highway one more time.
I can’t hear any more screeching, but I can hear the brake pad to rotor sound more, which isn’t a bad thing, and I even think they grab the rotor better.
I’ll try to pay attention more this week to see if it’s happening anymore and then I guess I’ll have to undo the caliper and take a look at the pads.
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 611
From: DFW Texas
I'll take a swing to left field on this one. Sounds like metal-to-metal contact. Is it possible that one or more of the pads was installed backwards and the metal backing of the pad is contacting the rotor(s). Should be easy to check them just to be sure and not the first time this has happened.
GD
GD
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
I'll take a swing to left field on this one. Sounds like metal-to-metal contact. Is it possible that one or more of the pads was installed backwards and the metal backing of the pad is contacting the rotor(s). Should be easy to check them just to be sure and not the first time this has happened.
GD
GD
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 611
From: DFW Texas
Then I can only think that you may have insufficient brake lube applied to the contact points. The ears of the pads and the piston to pad contact areas. Be sure you are using the sticky brake specific lube that stays put and doesn't easily wash off when driving through water.
Good luck...GD
Good luck...GD
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
Then I can only think that you may have insufficient brake lube applied to the contact points. The ears of the pads and the piston to pad contact areas. Be sure you are using the sticky brake specific lube that stays put and doesn't easily wash off when driving through water.
Good luck...GD
Good luck...GD
Thanks for all the ideas though, I’ve never been this stumped before.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 825
Likes: 66
From: Baltimore Md
I actually used anti seize. I used it on the outside of the pads too, where the brake caliper cylinder pushes in the brake pad. It’s still in there after a few power washes so I have to assume it’s still on all the other points I applied it to.
Thanks for all the ideas though, I’ve never been this stumped before.
Thanks for all the ideas though, I’ve never been this stumped before.