Stripped Lowering Leaf Spring
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
Stripped Lowering Leaf Spring
I tried to raise my 05’ today and I just couldn’t get the leaf spring bolt to turn, the head of the bolt is now stripped, and I’m not sure of what to do.
I sprayed all 4 bolts, 2x a day with pb blaster for 5 days straight and the very first one I started on wouldn’t budge.
I also had the leaf spring itself supported by a jack so that all the weight was off it.
Im just looking for simple ways to tighten/loosen that bolt without welding, or drilling it out.
Im also going to look on Amazon for a replacement bolt and rubber pad because mine are pretty bad, so if you guys have any recommendations.
I sprayed all 4 bolts, 2x a day with pb blaster for 5 days straight and the very first one I started on wouldn’t budge.
I also had the leaf spring itself supported by a jack so that all the weight was off it.
Im just looking for simple ways to tighten/loosen that bolt without welding, or drilling it out.
Im also going to look on Amazon for a replacement bolt and rubber pad because mine are pretty bad, so if you guys have any recommendations.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 1,283
From: Phoenix, AZ to Quakertown, PA.
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c6-0...f%3fcount%3d90
Replace your bolts with these. I’ve heard they are better than most.
Replace your bolts with these. I’ve heard they are better than most.
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 94
Likes: 20
From: Colorado Springs CO
Welp, mine did that too, I have not found any decent replacement stock size bolts, ( they would not thread in, like the pitch was wrong)
I have ordered the stainless lowering bolts that can angle, I'll see how those do.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192037189665
But, the frozen and then stripped bolt:
Welp, after messing with it for way too long, I took out the leaf spring, cut off the rubber with a sawzall
ground off the remaining rubber with a whizzie wheel (or grinder) and welded a large nut onto the metal pad
like I figured the stock epoxy was liquid and the whole thing came right out, slapped it into the vise and easily turned out the bolt though ( I really didn't think it would budge, but it did)
Today I cleaned up the insert and leaf spring, and epoxied it back into the leaf spring
I have ordered the stainless lowering bolts that can angle, I'll see how those do.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192037189665
But, the frozen and then stripped bolt:
Welp, after messing with it for way too long, I took out the leaf spring, cut off the rubber with a sawzall
ground off the remaining rubber with a whizzie wheel (or grinder) and welded a large nut onto the metal pad
like I figured the stock epoxy was liquid and the whole thing came right out, slapped it into the vise and easily turned out the bolt though ( I really didn't think it would budge, but it did)
Today I cleaned up the insert and leaf spring, and epoxied it back into the leaf spring
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
https://www.corvettecentral.com/c6-0...f%3fcount%3d90
Replace your bolts with these. I’ve heard they are better than most.
Replace your bolts with these. I’ve heard they are better than most.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
Welp, mine did that too, I have not found any decent replacement stock size bolts, ( they would not thread in, like the pitch was wrong)
I have ordered the stainless lowering bolts that can angle, I'll see how those do.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192037189665
But, the frozen and then stripped bolt:
Welp, after messing with it for way too long, I took out the leaf spring, cut off the rubber with a sawzall
ground off the remaining rubber with a whizzie wheel (or grinder) and welded a large nut onto the metal pad
like I figured the stock epoxy was liquid and the whole thing came right out, slapped it into the vise and easily turned out the bolt though ( I really didn't think it would budge, but it did)
Today I cleaned up the insert and leaf spring, and epoxied it back into the leaf spring
I have ordered the stainless lowering bolts that can angle, I'll see how those do.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192037189665
But, the frozen and then stripped bolt:
Welp, after messing with it for way too long, I took out the leaf spring, cut off the rubber with a sawzall
ground off the remaining rubber with a whizzie wheel (or grinder) and welded a large nut onto the metal pad
like I figured the stock epoxy was liquid and the whole thing came right out, slapped it into the vise and easily turned out the bolt though ( I really didn't think it would budge, but it did)
Today I cleaned up the insert and leaf spring, and epoxied it back into the leaf spring
I heard of the double nut method, and I figure that I’ll give that a try before I start anything drastic.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 3,291
Likes: 1,283
From: Phoenix, AZ to Quakertown, PA.
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
XX
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 859
Likes: 40
From: Louisiana
St. Jude Donor '12
A old mechanic told me on rusted bolts and nuts try to go either way by tightening or loosening, if it moves work it back and forth in small turns, double nut and heat if you can.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 897
From: CONCORD CA.
I tried to raise my 05’ today and I just couldn’t get the leaf spring bolt to turn, the head of the bolt is now stripped, and I’m not sure of what to do.
I sprayed all 4 bolts, 2x a day with pb blaster for 5 days straight and the very first one I started on wouldn’t budge.
I also had the leaf spring itself supported by a jack so that all the weight was off it.
Im just looking for simple ways to tighten/loosen that bolt without welding, or drilling it out.
Im also going to look on Amazon for a replacement bolt and rubber pad because mine are pretty bad, so if you guys have any recommendations.
I sprayed all 4 bolts, 2x a day with pb blaster for 5 days straight and the very first one I started on wouldn’t budge.
I also had the leaf spring itself supported by a jack so that all the weight was off it.
Im just looking for simple ways to tighten/loosen that bolt without welding, or drilling it out.
Im also going to look on Amazon for a replacement bolt and rubber pad because mine are pretty bad, so if you guys have any recommendations.
while I only needed to replace one bolt, I'll do all four. I did replace all for about 3 - 4 years ago. I don't know if those were original. two of them were broken, the other two were bent and missing the wear pads.
hoping that the replacing the current broken one, will address the bottoming out feeling & noise I've been experiencing lately. also hoping they last a bit longer than the previous ones did.
good luck on your replacement too!
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 1,728
Likes: 861
I also suffered the fate of stripped the absolute **** out of one of the lowering bolts. The only other way to get it out if you have utilized every other tool in your arsenal is to remove the leaf spring and drill it out. As far as replacement bolts, I would advise against the ones listed. They would only be good for a temp solution as the rubber will wear through and then you'll have a metal on metal rubbing sound that needs fixed before too long. Your best bet is to source OEM replacements from online, junkyard, forum members, etc. There's a clear difference in the bushing from OEM and the $56 ones linked. Finding OEM replacements is a challenge in itself but if you're persistent, they can and have shown up on here and ebay countless times in the past.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
I did, I tired it with the sae size that was a little smaller, heated it up and I couldn’t get it on more then a few centimeters.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 401
Likes: 37
as I'm typing this note, UPS just delivered to me, a set of ( 4 ) leveling bolts. I ordered them from Amazon and, they ended up being from West Coast Corvette.
while I only needed to replace one bolt, I'll do all four. I did replace all for about 3 - 4 years ago. I don't know if those were original. two of them were broken, the other two were bent and missing the wear pads.
hoping that the replacing the current broken one, will address the bottoming out feeling & noise I've been experiencing lately. also hoping they last a bit longer than the previous ones did.
good luck on your replacement too!
while I only needed to replace one bolt, I'll do all four. I did replace all for about 3 - 4 years ago. I don't know if those were original. two of them were broken, the other two were bent and missing the wear pads.
hoping that the replacing the current broken one, will address the bottoming out feeling & noise I've been experiencing lately. also hoping they last a bit longer than the previous ones did.
good luck on your replacement too!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 897
From: CONCORD CA.
they look good but that doesn't mean anything. if this have a short life, I'll do a little more investigation on the next batch. for now, they'll for sure address my current needs.
I'm pretty sure the current leveling bolt broke when, the car lost a rear control arm bolt in September. when that bolt went bye-bye, the car felt like it was on ice skates.
with a new bolt installed, all seemed like normal. soon after is when i finally noticed the rear bottoming out over medium / large bumps. finally found out last weekend about the broken leveling bolt.
this car is like painting a bridge!
I'm pretty sure the current leveling bolt broke when, the car lost a rear control arm bolt in September. when that bolt went bye-bye, the car felt like it was on ice skates.
with a new bolt installed, all seemed like normal. soon after is when i finally noticed the rear bottoming out over medium / large bumps. finally found out last weekend about the broken leveling bolt.
this car is like painting a bridge!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,706
Likes: 897
From: CONCORD CA.
just picked up my car yesterday after having replaced all four leveling bolts. both of the rear bolts were broken. this is the second time in almost 6 years of ownership I've replaced them.
the first time, the front ones just had the pads worn off. both rear ones were broken (along with transaxle mounts rubber having been separated, all bolts were bent). this time, the front bolts both still had the pads but, were getting worn down.
as not previously, I lost a rear control arm bolt in September (driver's side) and, am thinking that this may have contributed / caused this failure.
how frequently has anyone replaced these leveling bolts (due to failure)?
the first time, the front ones just had the pads worn off. both rear ones were broken (along with transaxle mounts rubber having been separated, all bolts were bent). this time, the front bolts both still had the pads but, were getting worn down.
as not previously, I lost a rear control arm bolt in September (driver's side) and, am thinking that this may have contributed / caused this failure.
how frequently has anyone replaced these leveling bolts (due to failure)?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 722
2024 C6 of the Year Winner - Unmodified
I did the same thing when lowering my ZR1. Turns out it stripped exactly where I needed it. I turned the other side to the same point on the threads. It was even, but it just wasn't low enough so I cut a bushing off. Now it's perfect. Got a half inch out of that.
26" front 27" rear. Still plentyyyyyyyy of wheel gap so it doesn't look slammed.
26" front 27" rear. Still plentyyyyyyyy of wheel gap so it doesn't look slammed.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 4,927
Likes: 2,334
From: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
I also suffered the fate of stripped the absolute **** out of one of the lowering bolts. The only other way to get it out if you have utilized every other tool in your arsenal is to remove the leaf spring and drill it out. As far as replacement bolts, I would advise against the ones listed. They would only be good for a temp solution as the rubber will wear through and then you'll have a metal on metal rubbing sound that needs fixed before too long. Your best bet is to source OEM replacements from online, junkyard, forum members, etc. There's a clear difference in the bushing from OEM and the $56 ones linked. Finding OEM replacements is a challenge in itself but if you're persistent, they can and have shown up on here and ebay countless times in the past.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
I replaced all 4 of my aftermarket lowering bolts with CorvetteCentral OEM bolts and had to replace the rears again within a year. The rubber was completely gone on one side. If there's a better option, I'm all ears, but these seem to be the only new, OEM-ish bolts available.
Mine are the OEM-style bolts from Corvette Central, not their lowering bolts.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 4,927
Likes: 2,334
From: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
I replaced all 4 of my aftermarket lowering bolts with CorvetteCentral OEM bolts and had to replace the rears again within a year. The rubber was completely gone on one side. If there's a better option, I'm all ears, but these seem to be the only new, OEM-ish bolts available.
Mine are the OEM-style bolts from Corvette Central, not their lowering bolts.
Mine are the OEM-style bolts from Corvette Central, not their lowering bolts.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 851
Likes: 390
Good info. But what do you mean by one side? Both front and rear pads were gone on the driver’s side, for example and if so which side? Or one side of the pad wore unevenly? I’ve got 4 new replacements from CC, but not ready to install them yet. Summit has some more expensive stainless steel bolts that allow the feet to swivel.
https://www.corvettecentral.com/5750...RoCSJgQAvD_BwE