Possible causes
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 3,651
Likes: 274
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 1,286
Likes: 611
From: DFW Texas
A possible cause would be that the relay may have arc'd and burned due to movement within the underhood fuse block. The fuse block consists of 3 levels sandwiched and held together by crimped metal rivets and the 4 bolts that run through them on the top of the block. Assumed that the dealer replaced the relay. You should pull it and check the connections below for any receded and/or burned contacts. If confirmed, the new relay may just burn as well.
There are threads that describe how to pull the fuse block apart and straighten the contacts or pull them up & straighten them to maintain better connectivity.
GD
There are threads that describe how to pull the fuse block apart and straighten the contacts or pull them up & straighten them to maintain better connectivity.
GD
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 129
From: Plainfield IN
A possible cause would be that the relay may have arc'd and burned due to movement within the underhood fuse block. The fuse block consists of 3 levels sandwiched and held together by crimped metal rivets and the 4 bolts that run through them on the top of the block. Assumed that the dealer replaced the relay. You should pull it and check the connections below for any receded and/or burned contacts. If confirmed, the new relay may just burn as well.
There are threads that describe how to pull the fuse block apart and straighten the contacts or pull them up & straighten them to maintain better connectivity.
GD
There are threads that describe how to pull the fuse block apart and straighten the contacts or pull them up & straighten them to maintain better connectivity.
GD
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 4,932
Likes: 2,342
From: Etobicoke (Toronto) Ontario
Two ways I can think of: the insulation on the electromagnet coil degrades and the coil shorts out. That will burn up the coil if the fuse doesn't blow. Second way is if the contacts which carry the high amps are worn or dirty and start to arc. Nothing like an electric arc to generate heat.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 2,257
Likes: 501
From: NJ
So what the Tech is most likely concluded is: the pump had a bad (shorted)commutator which in turn resulted in a high Amp draw of the motor. This high amperage draw will stress out the components up stream of the pump and including the pump. Things like relays, wires, fuses, connectors, etc..
Besides the electrical aspect, also check for : on the fuel side for clogged pick-up filter or filter sock and discharge(pressure) side fuel filter.
Besides the electrical aspect, also check for : on the fuel side for clogged pick-up filter or filter sock and discharge(pressure) side fuel filter.
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Instructor
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 171
Likes: 68
@BLUDICE
since your car is already supercharged, this could be an opportunity to spend a little extra money and upgrade fuel pumps while you're at it. The boost-a-pump that's (presumably) installed might just be pushing the stock fuel pump to the limit, leaving no room for error. Upgrade the fuel pump means a little more money, but a fair bit more peace of mind that you won't have any issues going forward
since your car is already supercharged, this could be an opportunity to spend a little extra money and upgrade fuel pumps while you're at it. The boost-a-pump that's (presumably) installed might just be pushing the stock fuel pump to the limit, leaving no room for error. Upgrade the fuel pump means a little more money, but a fair bit more peace of mind that you won't have any issues going forward
