Curious if there is any reason they aren't using an ATI ?

 

I will ask them on Monday why they use the Dorman instead of the ATI. They apparently do these repairs often. The Dorman they use may be a higher end Dorman?

 

severely doubt it. Doorman makes oem type replacements.
ATI is overkill really, but it’s more a race application.
technically ATI calls for them to be rebuilt anually or semi annually if memory serves me. No one does though unless it’s severe type use (ie: they race)

 

And the saga continues. It's been several days and now I find the balancer bolt has loosened itself again. I suspect that the shop didn't properly torque it or didn't use a TTY bolt or something. I'm not a mechanic but apparently these guys aren't either. Asking for a refund again to find someone competent in Indianapolis.

 

I got my 2005 Vette back today after the Harmonic Balancer was replaced along with a few other repairs. They did use the Dorman (594-631) as the replacement.

Work done:
Harmonic Balancer replacement
Both belts replaced (Serpentine and AC)
Engine crankshaft seal replaced
Alignment
AC Schrader Valves replaced along with the Freon (they found the valves were leaking Freon)
Battery cable assembly replaced due to voltage drop on existing cable which cause cranking issues

Took several days but the good news is that my mechanical breakdown coverage covered it all except for my deductible.

 

If it's loosened itself again I wonder if the threads are stripped?

 

Actually pretty funny Lol

Not your predicament of course, just the quote.

 

OK, I said above that the TSB covering the loose balancer bolt might be superseded by a more recent version, but the attached one should be enough, particularly for the actual install of the balancer. From what I've read, there are more efficient ways of getting to the point where you can R&R the balancer, but the critical parts of the procedure should still apply. I've highlighted what IMHO are some critical parts of the procedure, and using a TTY bolt as per the procedure is slightly different than if you are using an ARP bolt. Also note that the TSB instructs to replace the balancer, not reuse one that has possibly spun on the snout, and whose bore may have been altered by spinning on the snout or by stretching. Note also that the TSB warns against starting the balancer onto the snout using the old bolt. They use an install tool, but I've read that you could make one up with a threaded rod and and a few nuts. Once the HB is aligned and started onto the snout, you switch over to the old bolt. BTW, there was a fairly recent post where another owner found themselves in the same sorry state of affairs, but took it back to the same shop for another try, and 3 times was the charm. The shop you took it to - have these guys any experience in successfully replacing the balancer on an LS, or are you their science experiment?

 

Bummer

 

Fats: Your info is greatly appreciated as is your sage advice. I'm getting a bit discouraged being put in the position of having to explain to supposed professionals how to do their jobs. As I mentioned previously I'm not a mechanic but I do have a rudimentary knowledge base. Even at my advanced age I'm discovering new ways of being flim-flammed which just adds insult to the injury. If anyone knows of a reliable Corvette doctor in Indianapolis please advise.

 

I am currently looking at a 2005 with 52K mileage. I had a pre purchase inspection at a Chevy dealer and no issues noted. Is HB replacement a given on the LS2 and what should one expect to pay? Is replacement of the HB expected as mileage goes up? How common is HB failure on a 2005 - 2007 ? Please advise

 

NO.

Tom

 

I replaced my HB myself. If I needed to take it to a shop for this, I would make damn sure I included some directions that cover many of the misses and mistakes that happen on these swaps....

.

1. For automatics, was the starter dropped and the flywheel properly locked so you can get 200+ lbs of proper torque on the bolt
2. Was the new HB put on with an install tool so no risk of trying to start the HB on with only a couple of threads on the crank snout
3. Was a new timing cover seal installed.
4. Was the old crank bolt used to torque the new HB down and then a NEW bolt installed using the proper torque-to-yield sequence
5. Was a diamond washer used and was Loctite installed on the new bolt and allowed to set up for 24 hours before driving the car
6. Do the belts line up to indicate that the HB was properly seated

 

The problem isnt the car, its the shop working on it.

Find a different repair shop.

 

Received a check from the original shop today to cover the new shop's labor estimate - $690. Purchased new TTY balancer bolt from Advance Auto Parts (Dorman P/N 917-139, Retail $7.99). New shop guy says he'll be able to tell if the crank end has been stripped from the loose bolt. I seriously doubt the original shop knew to torque to 200 ft/lbs. I will go over the procedure listed by C6ToGo above (thank you for the info!) without trying to be a know-it-all "that guy".

Others have mentioned "pinning the crank" primarily as a precaution for installing a supercharger. I don't ever intend to modify this engine but I'm curious if that procedure could actually mitigate damaged internal threads in the crank snout.

I just want my baby back.




 

If they are stripped I wonder if they may be able to helicoil it or re tap for slightly larger diameter bolt. I would pin it either way.
Sounds like your new guy is on top of it.

 

New guy said "No" to helicoil on the crank bolt. Said that stripped threads would be a whole new nightmare.

 

Update: re inspected the 2005 Vette - fully loaded coupe with Z51, PEP, transparent roof, all options. Took a friend who owns a 2004 loaded convertible. Put an LED lamp on the pulleys and HB. The dreaded wobble was observed. Called and visited 4 different shops to gather info. on repair costs - best estimate by a highly regarded Corvette repair shop in Northern Virginia - approximately $1400 labot plus parts + alignment.

Negotiating with owner final price of the car - given the aforementioned. Car has 52K - always garaged- very clean chassis but needs fluid exchanges for brakes - coolant - trans (auto) - PS - limited slip diff. Interior is clean with no cracks or rips - cashmere leather - all other systems work as expected including the dual zone climate cntl.

Asking 20K BEFORE inspection or repairs for HB.

 

If were me... and I was on a budget.....and seller was standing fairly firm on price....and I really wanted the car.

.

1. Show seller the quote with parts and $1400 labor (ridiculous!!) Sounds like about $1800 total? and tell will split the difference for $900 off selling price
2. Get a PowerBond PB1117N non-sfi balancer, bolt and seal for about $130.
3. Find someone who will do the labor for $600 (can be done). I did it on my driveway at age 56 on a weekend, Not rocket science, Basic wrench turning that doesn't require a Corvette specialty shop.
4. I come out ahead!!

 

Update and not great news:

Yesterday, my 2005 vette suddenly started having issues. First a warning came up that said to check or service charging system. I looked at the voltmeter gauge and saw that it was below normal, maybe at about 11 volts. I called my servicer and then a message came up that said water temp too high and/or over temp. I glanced at the gauge and saw the temp was suddenly at max. Fortunately I was at a parking lot turn off so I pulled in, parked and turned the car off. I popped the hood and saw no steam coming off (i.e. indications of overheating). I called AAA for a tow and called my servicer back as it appeared the issues were related to the harmonic balancer replacement they did in early July. I also noticed the AC was blowing hot and the power steering was not working. After a few minutes I started the car and looked at the belt area and saw that the serpentine belt was not spinning. Obviously if the belts are not spinning all of the issues would happen. AAA showed up with a flatbed and took me and car to my servicer. Unfortunately they cannot check it out until about a week from now. I expressed my dissatisfaction with what appears to be a failed repair after just over a month. Right now I am only guessing but I think the balancer must have disconnected from the drive shaft. If so what caused that? Bolt not tightened properly?, drive shaft failure at the connection?, harmonic balancer issue?. My July repair came with a 36 month warranty so the repair is no cost if the repair they did failed.
I chose this servicer, in late June, because of their good reviews and because my dealer was booked. Now I am questioning my decision to go to this servicer. I guess i will find out next week what they find as the cause.

I expressed my dissatisfaction to the owner of the repair shop. He was sympathetic and assured me they would find out the cause and cover the repair if the harmonic balancer repair failed. But he said he could not bump anyone else out of "line" to check my car sooner. In my opinion they should jump through some hoops and even work extra hours to expedite checking my car.