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My Mishimoto aluminum radiator started leaking on my 09 base model and upon inspection there were black streaks on the fins where the coolant is leaking. I did some research and learned of electrolysis. I used a multimeter and stuck one end into the reservoir (the aluminum fill cap is hard to access) and connected the other end to the battery ground. I got a steady reading of about 2.50v. I cycled my lights and horns. The turn indicators bump the voltage to about 2.60v, the high beams to about 2.65v, and the actual headlights to about 2.75v. The horn bumped the voltage to about 2.60v as well. I'm using Prestone Dexcool and distilled water. About a year ago I replaced the fan shroud connector with a 100w connector due to the OEM one melting at the middle pin (a common issue in warm climates). I understand that a sacrificial anode is a temporary bandaid that I can slap on the issue for now so I don't start destroying my new radiator. Anyone else experience something similar? Can this issue simply be fixed by grounding the radiator? It seems that I must be grounding bad somewhere else.
I know you said you have done some research, here is more information for you. Suggest completely flushing your coolant, replace with 50-50 distilled water and dexcool antifreeze, and be sure your engine block and battery are grounded well to the frame then recheck the voltage. I would not connect the radiator to ground if it wasn't engineered that way, it may make your problem worse. Good luck and keep us posted on the result
Ooohhhhh the joys of electrolysis! I just spent $20k fixing my boat this year due to it. Haven’t really thought about it in a car, but it can create quite the bit of havoc in boats for sure.
if you are interested to see just how bad, I can post a video of my boat to show you how bad the damage got for entertainment purposes.
Ooohhhhh the joys of electrolysis! I just spent $20k fixing my boat this year due to it. Haven’t really thought about it in a car, but it can create quite the bit of havoc in boats for sure.
if you are interested to see just how bad, I can post a video of my boat to show you how bad the damage got for entertainment purposes.
I don't want to be entertained with your pain but I am interested in what happened and how it was fixed.
I know you said you have done some research, here is more information for you. Suggest completely flushing your coolant, replace with 50-50 distilled water and dexcool antifreeze, and be sure your engine block and battery are grounded well to the frame then recheck the voltage. I would not connect the radiator to ground if it wasn't engineered that way, it may make your problem worse. Good luck and keep us posted on the result
I went ahead and I tried the flush and I really cleaned up the 4 major grounding points I could access in the engine bay to no avail; same issue. I did do more research into grounding the radiator and discovered that it would be a bad idea. This time when I ran the multimeter test I let it idle for longer. It seems the lights really contribute to the problem as well as run time. I let the car idle for about 10 minutes and I was reading about .318 volts. Only the headlights, high beams, and horn seem to affect the voltage increase/decrease. I tested turning on and off the ac and stereo, as well as the brake lights and they didn't seem to exacerbate the issue. The voltage didn't increase with raising the rpm. Anymore ideas? This issue is stressing me out because this is currently my only transportation and if it's eating my aluminum radiator it might be working on my engine block.
Do you have voltage between the engine block and ground? I don’t think there should be any if the block is properly grounded. I’d start there.
Interesting enough, so I read from engine to ground (using the bolt on the engine that the manual says to use for jumpstart) and I got a reading of 1.1mV which seems okay but not quite 0. However I tried testing some resistances which give give a good explanation of what might be going on. I tested from the engine to ground and got a resistance of 6.6 ohms. I tested from my radiator to ground and got a resistance of 0.0 ohms. Therefore my radiator is a better path to ground than my engine grounding points. Can anyone else confirm this is not normal on their c6? If that's the case how can I improve the engines grounding points and add more resistance to my radiator? (Additional note after I turned off the car I checked the voltage from radiator to ground and got this lovely number)
I guess my coolant is holding a charge.
I figured out the issue. It seems the dowty seal washer was worn and causing a small leak at the drain plug. This caused an eventual trickle over the rubber feet that grounded the radiator to the core support. This caused the electrical current which eventually made the radiator fins leak up above which masked the small leak from the drain plug. What a nightmare.