I have seen all the options posted for tunnel heat solutions but have not seen any post with this product. This product clamps onto the exhaust pipe and provide an air gap.
The winter project is pulling interior out and applying more sound deadener from seats back and heat protection on the tunnel.
I considered added a second stock tunnel plate with spacers to create an air gap but that doesn't cover the sides of the tunnel, which you can feel inside.
I like this product because it isn't a "stick-on" and my concern is the thicker plate with insulation reflects some heat but also traps it inside the tunnel after a long drive.
I ordered 1 unit to see if it will fit and will get more if it does.,

 

Never put my hand there to check it, on this car or any other vehicle I have ever owned. Does it cause a problem? If so ?

 

This should help, but exh heat is only one part of the problem. A lot of heat comes from the torque tube.

I dropped the exh, removed T plate, insulated the inside of the tunnel above & either side of TT . Insulated the inside of T plate, reinstalled it, then insulated the bottom of Tplate & lower tunnel sides. Reinstalled exhaust. Probably 75% reduction in heat.

 

I installed an Elite Engineering 1/4 inch tunnel plate with ceramic coating on one side and a composite thermal pad on the other. It solved my problem with heat migration from the exhaust pipes on my 2012 GS.

 

I will likely have to drop the exhaust to install the heat shield so will drop the plate and insulate the inside of the tunnel while I am there.

 

Got the exhaust pipe insulation installed and do believe it will be effective. There is just enough clearance to install it w/o removing exhaust.
Hardware is stainless steel and has air gaps on both sides of insulation.

 

let us know of the results also am looking at where I can buy insulation for inside the arm rest compartment and cup holders.

 

Also curious of it's effectiveness. Trying to avoid pulling interior out. #1 complaint of my C6 is cabin heat.

 

I live in South Dakota so it will be a few months before I can test it.
I did the full interior out and insulation on my previous C5. The insulation helped but I didn't like how the carpet, console, seats fit together afterwards. Seats were tight against the carpet, etc..

 

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but I want to hear about people's results with the exhaust pipe top cover and I have a couple questions. Has Anybody had any noticeable good results with that? Those of you that are insulating the tunnel above and on the sides of the torque tube and on the top of the exhaust plate that faces the torque tube, are you using actual insulation and if so, what kind and how thick did you go? Could you please provide a link and info to the product you used and like it maybe saw in your daily travels? Or did you use radiant barrier that is basically thicker stick-on aluminum foil like DEI sells sheets of on Amazon or did you find something you picked up at Lowe's or home Depot? If it is actual insulation how thick can you go and still not block the air from flowing freely around the he torque tube and exhaust plate like it should? Do any of you have any tips or tricks to do all this and actually increase air flow by slightly altering or adding something simple somewhere else?

I ask because have a 2008 LS3 base vert and I hate how much heat out it's up through the drink holders and the sides and to of the tunnel itself. I'm going to install 1-7/8" kooks headers and X pipe a an vs Corsa sports with 4" tips on that I have all sitting here already. I'm going to. I'm going to get all that stuff coated with Cerakote because there is a ship that dies amazing work within a 10 minute drive of my house. I'm currently in the middle of replacing the wiring harness with the Microswitches that go bad on the automatic shifter and while I'm there I'm replacing the shifter bushing that eventually fails. While I'm there I'm going to put some heat reflecting aluminum tape on the inside of that as much as I can reach from the top., but that probably won't do much except save me a little work when I do the rest of the area around the torque tube.
Will there be any possible clearance issues with the 3/8" tunnel plate and that DEI installation kit that goes on the exhaust side of the tunnel plate and side walls and the exhaust pipes?

I would appreciate any recommendations, thoughts, tips, tricks, input, feedback, ideas or suggestions on this stuff that anybody would care to share.

-Steve

 

Anchito27, I started this thread and was able to test this on a trip to Fl and back in April but outside temps were not really hot yet.
I did notice a reduction in heat at rear of tunnel where the insulation was at.
The middle area of the tunnel under cup holders was still to hot. but was not part of the insulated exhaust area.
The X part of pipe should be the hottest part of the exhaust with both pipes coming together so that is where I will insulate next when i find something that fits that area.
DEI has some stainless steel heat shield pads that may work but I haven't spent much time on it this summer.

I have resisted adding insulation to the tunnel plate as i believe it reflects heat down but also contains heat around torque tube.
The pipe insulation is working, just need to do it above the x-pipe next. The exhaust pipes in front of x-pipe have more room as the tunnel is much wider.
Some yrs had cats in that wide area but my 2011 doesn't.

 

I had my headers and x-pipe ceramic coated before install. Also installed THIS.

No more heat issues.

 

I bought and installed this stuff (Floor & Tunnel Shield II™ - 42" x 48" - Design Engineering, Inc) to the tunnel ABOVE the torque tube (I had the whole drivetrain out of the car in conjunction with doing an engine rebuild). I already had the Elite Engineering tunnel plate, but it did NOT reduce temperature inside the console enough for my liking.

I just got my car back on the road a few days ago, so I haven't actually put very many miles on, but so far, it feels like the console is staying nice and cool .

 

I like the looks of that! Will look (read) further on to see if you think it has helped.

 

I just bought my 2008 automatic base model. I have not experianced the heat you guys are talking about. Ya know why? My A/C works great.

 

So does mine. You haven't gone for a long enough ride yet then, unless your car was heat shielded by the prior owner. You'll start feeling the outside of your right leg getting pretty warm and your drinks will too. Even when I go for a ride here in northern Utah.in the cooler months, it still gets pretty warm eventually after a couple hours.

 

Very Nice Cap'n Pete! How much clearance did that leave you all the way around the torque tube? Is it enough to keep the air flowing through? How many sheets of that stuff did you need?

 

I have a "tunnel plate" on mine and have no problem with heat.

 

Put your iPhone in the console while charging and streaming music. Let me know know how that works out for you. Two different phones (iPhone 8 and iPhone 12) would overheat.

Side note, the tunnel plate didn't resolve it. That helps cut down heat coming from the exhaust, but that doesn't do anything with heat transmitted from the engine to the torque tube. Also note that it's 115 degrees here in areas around Houston with the heat index, so these cars will still get heat saturated on the underside. Best way to protect against that is to install shielding above the torque tube as illustrated above.

 

Think I’m going to do this also, do they help at all?