AtlEngineer

Hi Gents,

The driver side DRL turn signal bulb in front has gone out.

The no tool solution of turn the wheels and have a monkey whose hand could fit around the corner and accomplish the push, turn pull did not work for me.

Next best appears jacking the body (some kind of low profile jack or 2x8 or 2x10 drive up on) appears to be cheapest least tool plan B.

Can I use a scissors jack and puck under the driver side front frame spot to just jack the body up enough to have the access panel clear the top of the tire, and place jack stands under the driver side rear lift spot,
and front stub frame lift spot, driver side (with pucks) and be safe?

I really want to avoid a trolley jack I will never use for anything else, 25 inch breaker bar and torque wrench for getting the wheels off and back on to do the same.

A plan B would probably to buy all the bulbs for both sides and pay Goodyear to put it on a lift, remove the wheels and have at it.
At my 100 miles per week, it would probably me my last time.

Sorry, I know many of you are hands on mechanics and purists.
I just want to drive it.
It has been 35 years since I did anything besides sound equipment and deadening on a car.

Thanks,
Atl Eng

Whitepony04

your options are:
plan A: learn to do basic repairs yourself. There’s a TON of tutorials on YouTube for everything and the satisfaction from making a repair yourself feels great IMO.

Plan 2: pay someone to do it. Be at someone else’s mercy for every little repair.

sramzzz

I personally would not pay someone to replace a light bulb. Take the whell off and easy peezy.

AtlEngineer

Hi Gents,
Thanks for the nudge.
Re: Someone at C6 specialty shop: Corvette shops are backed up 90 days in ATL and one of the supposed "best" butchered my 06 convertible prior to this coupe for $4000 electrical work. I was lucky to get out from under it.
Time to do the easy stuff myself, the fewer incompetent hands on my car the better.
I will pick up this jack, a long breaker bar and torque wrench for the wheels, jack stands, and rock and roll.
(43 Vette owners raved about it)
https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ump-64545.html

AtlEngineer.

sramzzz

Make sure you get some pucks so you don’t damage the rockers.

AtlEngineer

Thanks!
I ordered a set from AMZ.
Several vette users of the above jack said you didn't need them because it has a raised rubber top surface.
Either way, I should be good to go.
AtlEng

FAUEE

That's not the jack you want. Get the Daytona low profile long reach. That jack is weak and only suitable for hauling to the track for racing use.

I have both. Don't waste your time with that one for your garage.

leebay

Op ( ATL) I just changed my bulbs out last week, it's easy peasy & you don't need to remove the wheel. If you don't have pucks then use a small wood block with the jack also FAUEE you are correct as I have the HF Pittsburgh jack & it will bend and warp, the Daytona low profile is much better.

Dbl_D718

That 1.5 ton Pittsburgh jack is fine, and it's plenty for this job in particular. I have been using that jack for 8 years without any issues, doing much more significant work than changing light bulbs. As always though, buy a jack stand too, don't get under the car with just the jack supporting it.

AtlEngineer

Thanks! I wouldn’t get under a jacked car without jacks blocks and solid wood, even hands in the space above wheel and tire as intended. Jacks on order.
if I had the space in the garage I would get the heavier one that would stay and wheel. This one will be stored in the basement for the occasional bulb replacement. Biz partner’s former 2005 went 3 years without single bulb replacement. Me? This bulb out in 2000 miles and one year of ownership. Anyway I am ready!
Curious that 43 of the 8k 1.5 T low profile aluminum Jack buyers specifically mentioned working perfectly for Vettes and folks here had some bad experiences.

FAUEE

It's just a light duty jack. Mine also lost a lot of lifting power over the years. It still works, but you really have to give it the beans to get even the Vette up..larger vehicles? Forget it.

There's also a big delta in the expectations of people. Some people are fine with a light duty jack, they're gonna use it once every 6 months and if it takes 100 pumps to get it up that's better than their usual. But others have used a good jack before, and don't want to have to deal.with a weaker jack.

Personally I'd go with the Daytona version of the aluminum jack for another $30 bucks if I wasn't gonna lug it around. But only after debating spending the $300 for the low profile Daytona aluminum jack.

madsonp

This, from the “How To” section of this forum should give you an idea of how to access the bulbs. https://www.corvetteforum.com/how-to...-signal-368570

AtlEngineer

Thank you!
That post is where my search for a floor jack began!
"Jacking up the car to get easier access to the access panel."
AtlEng

AtlEngineer

I just tabulated what I would call a dog factor of 1 Star Review divided by Total number of Reviews in % For 1.5T to 3T Aluminum and Steel Pittsburg and Daytona jacks.
Dog Factor failure reported ranged from .8%for the Steel 3T Daytona, but 79 lb, and 1% for the 1.5T Aluminum Daytona (The Winner), on up to 1.6-1.7% Pittsburg 1.5T Aluminum and 3T Steel.

Longer ago dragging 80 lb up and down outdoor stairs from basement to garage would not have been a big deal. As 74 year old down to a scrawny 161 lb, not in the plans.
I just won't be using it much, and have no space in the garage.

But based on your great recommendation, I will return the Pittsburg 1.5T Aluminum jack and pick up the Daytona 1.5T Aluminum jack tomorrow.
Thanks again.
AtlEng

Mr D.

For this reason alone, I would just take the car to any local automotive repair shop and have them replace the blub.