This is too big to rollup in the 6 month update. I will be replacing my harmonic balancer using the 'remove steering rack' method. I've already got the car up on jackstands and ordered the flywheel locker. This should be fairly fun and interesting.


Pretty, but it sucks to drive it with the squeaking sound.

 

Dude! Good luck with this one. This this (IMO) a really big project. I considered it myself. But choose to have the work done by a local shop. More power to you!

 

Have fun. You may also want to gather up a loaner Chrysler balancer remover, a loaner 200+ ft/lb torque wrench and a HB install tool.....basically a long 16mm bolt.

My write up breaks the job down into 10 minute steps and has some useful tips, based on my experience. Just ignore the steps on parts I replaced that you may not (like water pump)

If you have some mechanical experience, it is an easier job than others (who haven't done it) make it out to be.

 

It's not quite as hateful as everyone makes it out to be. The rack removal is def the harder route. I'd personally recommend supporting the motor and dropping the k member down. More room to work and less headache.

 

I paid a shop to do mine. Then a few months later I did it myself due to the seal leaking . Guy I paid just did not think it was needed. I dropped the subframe a couple inches so I did not have to deal with the rack. Took about 7 hours. I think I could do it in 5 hours now that I have been there.

 

Agree. Need the Chrysler balancer removal tool (Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Advance, etc will loan you one), be sure to replace the seal and front drive belt. Check the bearings on the tensioner (just give it a spin and feel). Removing the rack is a pain but can be done. I took mine out the driver side, then easy access to everything. You can use the original bolt as an install tool but remove it after you're part way in and go to your new ARP bolt and washer.

 

I'm going to use C6toGo as my template for the work flow. Some of the things are not required, so I'll skip them. I might try to do the workflow template as a 1.1 to what was already posted. I'm not sure if I will remove the alternator for access to the input/output lines to the rack, I like the idea of partially removing the rack through the passenger side so that I can avoid the brake lines on the drivers side. Right now I have the starter and air intake off - 30 minutes on those and no issues. Wheels and tie rods tomorrow.

On the issue if this is doable and makes sense for a non-mechanic, only if you have previously worked on cars and have the tools. I have both.

 

I did my balancer on my C5 and am getting ready to do it on my C6. I dropped the cradle and removed the steering rack. First time I had done it and as others have said, with the right tools it’s not a bad job and you save a lot of $$$. What I found invaluable was writing down step by step everything I did as I disassembled. It allowed me to just start at the end of my notes and work backwards as I put everything back together so nothing was missed.

 

This was my excuse to put a cam in , while they are they it isn’t quite that much more coin to change it out and a good shop will tell you that while we are replacing the cam we want to do HB….easy peasy….

 

Replacing this yourself is not as bad as what has been said. Just take your time and get the job done knowing that no one would do the job like you would on your own car!

Replaced mine several years ago same as you on jack stands.........replaced all the pulleys, belt while I was there also and of course the front seal is a no brainer.

Good Luck,

BMF

 

I wouldn't do this. The risk of damaging the threads in the crankshaft is not worth saving the $25 to buy the install tool. Stripping the crank threads has happened to people.

I partially removed the steering rack through the passenger site on both my C5 and C6 and it worked fine. I didn't have a hoist to support the engine while lowering the cradle, so removing the rack was my only option. I also didn't need the flywheel locker, I was able to get the balancer bolt torqued by putting the car in gear with the e-brake set.

 

Agreed, balancer install tools are cheap... do it the right way

 

Agreed, this was much easier my first time around. I am now able to swap balancers on my friends' cars in a night. I feel some people get nervous when you talk about "dropping the k member and lifting the motor" but it's much simpler than the rack imo.

 

 

I'm still on Day 1 of C6ToGo's write up. I have most of it done in that section. Removing the alternator gives you a good view of three important connections - steering linkage bolt and two power steering pump lines.



At this point I would say if you cannot remove your starter and alternator in under an hour then you might need some professional help. I'm not having any issues on anything and I am taking my time. Thank you to everyone for your advice and input. I would not attempt this job if I didn't have this website and youtube videos.

 

Make sure you use an appropriate puller tool (threaded rod) NEVER use the old bolt, and heat up the new balancer in the oven. Its very easy to gobble up your threads.

Also pin it while you are in there for the extra piece of mind, it takes 5 minutes and in case you ever want to put a blower on it.

I would recommend this bolt, even over the ARP, the extra threads really help.

 

OP, thanks for this tread.
Wishing you an easy and flawless repair.

 

I am still on day 1 of C6ToGo writeup and have gone as far as I can until the tools that I ordered have arrived - 18mm crowsfoot flare, tie rod seperator. I'm not damaging my power steering lines by putting the wrong tool on them and 1 of my tie rod ends is not coming off easy and I want to use the proper tool instead of banging and prying. That stuff will come on Monday. Everything is disconnected now besides the two flare connectors, steering shaft (which will be highly marked as to position). The rest that needs to be disconnected is the steering rack, subframe etc. Some things I found that will probably help others. There are two connectors on the rack that need to be removed and it isn't obvious how to remove them. Here goes...

This holds the power steering cooler assembly. Passenger side. Easy to unlatch if you can see how it works.



This is kind of hidden on the drivers side. Fairly easy once you see how it connects. The bracket can reattach to the line that it connects to.



Brake line. Drivers side. 10mm bolt. This probably has to be removed to get the rack out on the drivers side - I'm going for passenger half removal side but I took it out anyways just in case


This last one is another brake line connector. If I can't do the passenger size half removal this will have to come out. Pry it up from the bottom.

 

You might have luck with the tie rod ends just by turning the spindles to a different angle, that usually helps mine to come out pretty easily. You can also spray some penetrating oil in there to help loosen them up.

 

I put some penetrating fluid on the remaining tie rod end. I tried to get a tie rod seperator from o'reilly's but they didn't have one to loan. I already ordered the tools I am missing but I do not want to wait. I already bought the 18mm crowsfoot, but didn't have the proper extensions to use it. The only thing left from the day 1 list is the two lines going to the power steering rack and the tie rod end. I'll probably get them tomorrow.

UPDATE:
I didn't need the crowsfoot to get the two power steering lines off, I used an 18mm flare wrench and did it from the drivers side wheel well. They were not that tight and came off fairly easily once I figured out how to get access. I think lowering the cradle would have helped but I didn't do that. The tie rod came off with a tool that looked like a tuning fork. Hitting it with a hammer just would have damaged something.

On to Day 2 of C6ToGo's write up. I think I had about 6 hours at most getting to this stage and I really didn't have any issues and I think everything is ok.


Update #2:
The reason you cannot remove or move the rack to the passenger side is because the power steering pulley is in the way. I'm going out the drivers side. I'm at the point of the gearbox hitting the brake lines. What would be the harm in just disconnecting them from the abs module? Brake bleed for sure - but that is better than damaging the brake lines. Sunday morning I am going to remove the cap to the brake fluid resevoir and loosen a bleeder valve. If I can get fluid to gravity feed I think I will seriously consider just undoing the 4 lines going to the abs module and then bleed the air out of the system later. I can deal with the consequences of doing that later.