Hey guys, tried searching the forum for a similar issue but actually found people dealing with the exact opposite..

installed LG's GT2 coilovers on my C6 Z06, fronts are fine, but im having an issue with the rear ones and i got off on the wrong foot with LG so asking them isnt an option i guess.

with the preload set to the spring (which isnt much at all based on recommendation) lowering the car by twisting the ring thats in control of the shaft which is the preferred way isnt reaching optimal height at all, at the extremely lowest setting i can easily fit three fingers between the rear tire and the fender which is weird.. most of the topics are people dealing with the opposite which is the ride being too low.

what i currently did and ill attach a picture to the setup is the three rings are nearly touching and the spring is completely loose and even with that i am nearly at a two finger gap between the fender and tires which im happy with but the ride is bumpy, its nothing i cant live with and i adjusted the **** between 7-9 only to be honest but i highly doubt going to lets say a 2 softness will fix this. While ride quality is an issue its not the whole issue, i just dont like setting the height while compromising the preload and spring and the last solution i want is to go to a drop spindle so here is what i have in mind.

1- disassemble the rears and cut the shaft itself so i can reach optimal height without compromising the spring which sounds completely logical but i wanna know if someone tried that.
2- if going with drop spindle is the way are different brands drop spindle compatible with the LG coilovers ? If so which brand is recommended ? Im asking cuz two friends of mine ordered drop spindles from LG since around December and last time i spoke yo them around a month ago they havent received it.. and after my experience ordering the suspension i wouldnt wanna order anything from them again.

thanks for replying

 

i don't have these, nor do I have coilovers of any brand on my Vette, but have had on other cars.
I can't really tell from your pic, but I think you need to add more pre-load...say,1/4" spring compression and that will enable you to turn the threaded shaft deeper, thereby allowing you to lower the car.
Just an opinion ...

 

thanks for replying if anything!
So if i add more preload i can spin the shaft more ? When i did the preload originally i did around a 3-4mm gap between the rings before tightening them i would imagine that any extra preload wont be much more than that so just wondering if it will allow me to spin the shaft that much.
i would say when the preload was set i needed maybe 7-8 extra rounds for the shaft to be at a decent level

 

the more preload (spring compressed), the more the threaded sleeve can be threaded into the top section.
But, there's such a thing as too much preload also. That will negatively affect handlng and reduce spring travel. So, I'd guess 1/4" preload is 'the most' you should go. Normally, I'd shoot for even less...just enough to keep the spring from moving when the car is unweighted.
These are not new to the market and many people are using them succesfully. I think with this type of design, you should be easily able to achieve the desired ride height. Also, in your photo, you seem to have about 3/8" more to thread the sleeve into the top section, Then, maybe you can add a little more pre-load...I don't know.

I really suggest that if you are unfamiliar you seek out the help of a performance shop to set this all up, and then perhaps have them corner the weight the car on scales. Doing all this by eye, and on unevern surfaces is not the optimum.
I don't know your application, or what the goals were, but i've seen some coilover setups yield worse results than stock with good replacement shocks. These LG GT2 are supposed to be quite good however. Good luck

 

the gap that you see is whats left if i was to turn the ring that holds the spring more if that makes sense.

based on your preload preference which was mine and the recommended one then i can confirm that unfortunately there was no more turns available at the shaft, whats left in the picture can be lowered thats true but with the same method of turning the ring that holds or set the preload.

yeah i think any preload more than the one i originally did will be "too much preload"
we unfortunately have zero suspension shops here.. an actual zero when it comes to stuff like these lol, been wanting to corner balance it as well but im not keeping my hopes up on that either for now. Excuse me for forgetting to mention the setup, its a c6z06 with basic bolt-ons so no cam or heads for now, goal is to get into 6-10 track days a year where im pushing the car and i do agree the shocks are fantastic and im enjoying them, definitely not going back to stock suspension style, i just want to find the solution that lets me get the correct ride height as well as a good preload for the car not to be super bouncy

 

@Dane@LGmotorsports maybe you can offer some insight? Wish I could help, I have LG G2's but I had a local shop set them up and corner balance the car for me.

 

How much have you driven on them since install? If you're just adjusting then sitting it on the ground I would recommend driving it for a day or at least around the block to let it settle before rechecking and readjusting.

Cutting the shaft is possible but I wouldn't advise it. The adjuster at the base pushes a metering rod through the center of the shaft to control bleed past the piston. If you were to cut from the base, you would need to shorten the metering rod by the exact same amount. You'd also need to cut thread up the shaft the amount removed from the base so that the threaded area is the same. Not impossible but more of a task than it seems.

 

thanks for the reply dane, ive been driving the car on the suspension for around three weeks or so now, did anyone else have this issue before that you know off ? Any advise would be appreciated for sure.

thanks for the heads up about the cut, i am highly considering it if its the only option available, will the rod that has to be cut by the same amount be visible and obvious ? If that makes sense

 

I've never had an issue getting the rear low enough. How are your rear upper mounts oriented? C5 is offset down and forward but for the C6 rear uppers the offset should be oriented up and toward the rear of the car. Three weeks should be plenty of time for settling so I don't think that is the issue.

Yes it's a thin rod that just slides out once the adjustment heim is removed.

 

okay the fact that you never had an issue is reassuring a bit lets hope the mistake is from my side.

excuse my ignorance i have no idea about the rear upper offset or what that even looks like, do you mind explaining a bit more ? And is setting the offset a changeable thing ? As in is it a set location or is there room to change so maybe i placed it wrong ?

ill attach a picture hopefully it helps u see

 

(Driver Side)
C5 Orientation



C6 Orientation

 

ill double check before cutting, ill attach two pics in this reply if they do give you an idea please let me know.
in the case of me having the sides switched, will that be the issue in your opinion ?

pictures are the driver side suspension

 

That upper mounting is correct.

 

thats interesting... i guess nothing more to do than to start cutting ?

 

You can go about it a bit less invasively. I would switch to a 600lb spring, add a helper spring and turn down the upper mount so that you can run the threaded spring perch higher/make room for the helper spring that will take up some space fully collapsed at static ride height. I can turn down uppers here on the lathe and send them to you if that would be easier for you.