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I have a 2005 c6 convertable. My issue is that my front bow that attaches to the front windsheild hits the tonneau cover latch when putting the top up or down. I currently hold the tonneau cover up to clear the front bow from hitting the latch. The tonneau cover does seem to open properly and not sag down. It's only hitting the latch by a quarter inch. I'm not sure if anyone knows the TSB on this. Pump issue or an adjustment? I am having trouble researching this and have had no luck on a resolve.
There’s a bunch of stuff on here about this. Generally, what happens is the straps get stretched out and they either need to be replaced or cinched up and make a new hole. Somewhere on here are illustrations on how to do just that. My old 2010 GS did the same thing. My current 2012 GS doesn’t do it, but because I got so programmed to hold the top behind me with a finger it’s like second nature now.
In a nutshell, the straps inside your top are stretched out. It’s a very common problem on these things. Im sure there’s a video on YouTube about the process of fixing it. If I am correct, I think there’s a post with a video on the fix on this very page. Scroll down the C6 discussions.
Not sure if it is the straps unless that also solves the front bow hitting the tonneau latch. I believe the straps fix the rear window from hitting the tonneau cover only? This problem is where the front bow or the part of the top that attaches to the windshield strikes the latch by about a 1/2 inch when the top goes up or down. I read a thread that says adjusting the whole top frame slightly forward via a couple of bolts behind each door solves the problem.
New 2011 Grand Sport 4LT owner here. Unit only has 17,000 miles but I have the same problem with both the window and front most portion of top hitting the retracted cover. I too can easily reach bak on the window part, but front still scrapes on waterfall latch. I'd like to get it fixed. Did you find a solution?
New 2011 Grand Sport 4LT owner here. Unit only has 17,000 miles but I have the same problem with both the window and front most portion of top hitting the retracted cover. I too can easily reach bak on the window part, but front still scrapes on waterfall latch. I'd like to get it fixed. Did you find a solution?
I did find a solution on my 2005 C6 top issue. The cause of my front bow hitting the tonneau cover latch was a rivet came loose on the drivers side tonneau cover cylinder ball joint post located in the trunk I discovered the problem only after removing the cylinder from the two attachment posts. The loose rear rivet post that holds the cylinder prevents the tonneau cover cylinder from extending fully because the post has play. I did find an easy solution however. You can remove the whole hinge to Weld the loose rivet or what I did was use an elastic band to pull the post forward. I then used JB Weld to set the loose post in place. Make sure you squeeze the JB Weld underneath the ball stud joint. Let it cure for at least 24 hours before reinstalling the cylinder back in place. Worked great for me. Front bow now clears the tonneau cover latch.
Fyi the rear window hitting the tonneau cover is a different problem that is repaired by tightening two straps by about 3/4 of an inch. Theres lots of videos on utube to instruction on how to on this problem.
There is nothing on line about my repair to fix the front bow which attaches to the front windsheild hitting the tonneau cover latch while retracting or putting the top up. I'm excited to share this as it took me 3 years to figure out. A shop would have cost me a fortune to figure out.
Thanks so much for the qwik reply. You're right. No discussion about front bow striking the latch. Window rub pretty easy. I'd NEVER have found what you describe without your tip. I will check that immediately. My 2011 might be a bit different, but I can tell it just needs to go up a little further.
I have a 2005 c6 convertable. My issue is that my front bow that attaches to the front windsheild hits the tonneau cover latch when putting the top up or down. I currently hold the tonneau cover up to clear the front bow from hitting the latch. The tonneau cover does seem to open properly and not sag down. It's only hitting the latch by a quarter inch. I'm not sure if anyone knows the TSB on this. Pump issue or an adjustment? I am having trouble researching this and have had no luck on a resolve.
My 2013 does this. There are elastic straps that pull the top away from the latch. Problem is they wear out...
Thanks so much for the qwik reply. You're right. No discussion about front bow striking the latch. Window rub pretty easy. I'd NEVER have found what you describe without your tip. I will check that immediately. My 2011 might be a bit different, but I can tell it just needs to go up a little further.
I willed you know what I find. Thanks again.
I'm super glad to help. It sounds exactly how my top acted. I was surprised and relieved to finally see what the unexpected problem was. You will need to check both sides of course. Hydraulic cylinders on passenger side and drivers side. The drivers side has the micro switch that tells the cylinder to engage. Fairly easy to get at both sides. I've had another thread saying that was also the problem with their vette. His rivet was loose on the passenger side. There's are two excellent utube videos from Klaus from Top Hydrulics on operation on the all the cylinders, pumps, etc. He shows how to get to and remove the cylinder/cylinders from the truck. Real easy, but really shows what to do. JB Weld is a great product if used correctly. Took me about an hour to fix. Hope the pictures help. There's really not much adjustments on these tops, so I willing to bet that's your issue. Those posts should have been bolts instead of riveted. Factory flaw. Fingers crossed. Keep me posted. Cheers.
Bluewasp: Your links are for the infamous C6 window bang on tonneau cover. The thread originator (Milley) and myself issue is the FRONT bow striking the tonneau cover latch on the way down and up. Not the rear window on the way up. The rear glass bump is the straps loosing elasticity. The front bow striking the tonneau latch is a different kettle of fish. Top Hydraulics says it's a bad pump. not so in my case, or in thread starter Miley. I have 1/4"+ to clear. Not much. SOMETING is keeping the tonneau cover from going up that tiny bit further. Miller may have figured it out.
I'm super glad to help. It sounds exactly how my top acted. I was surprised and relieved to finally see what the unexpected problem was. You will need to check both sides of course. Hydraulic cylinders on passenger side and drivers side. The drivers side has the micro switch that tells the cylinder to engage. Fairly easy to get at both sides. I've had another thread saying that was also the problem with their vette. His rivet was loose on the passenger side. There's are two excellent utube videos from Klaus from Top Hydrulics on operation on the all the cylinders, pumps, etc. He shows how to get to and remove the cylinder/cylinders from the truck. Real easy, but really shows what to do. JB Weld is a great product if used correctly. Took me about an hour to fix. Hope the pictures help. There's really not much adjustments on these tops, so I willing to bet that's your issue. Those posts should have been bolts instead of riveted. Factory flaw. Fingers crossed. Keep me posted. Cheers.
Milley - Ha - I'm a decent amateur welder and find myself using JB Weld quite a bit. Really good stuff if prep and mixed properly. I'm stuck in a multi day snow storm and haven't been able to get over to my storage unit to check yu tonneau struts. Driving me nuts LOL. Actually hoping I find what you found. May get over there today. Will keep you posted. If anyone knows of any other mechanical adjustments to the C6 convertible top FRONT bow position, please chime in. Thanks again for your lead Milley.
Convertable top issue
