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Just bought a 2009 base c6 with 22k miles on it. Absolutely love it. Bit of belt squeak when leaving the dealer but was told it was a brand new belt and just needed to break in. Service history was good and did show the pulley replacement. Squeak did go away within a week.
Anyways took it in to a vette specialist few weeks later and the Harmonic Balancer has walked back and dug into the oil pan quite a bit. Oil leaking. Likely has been in this condition since I bought it and I have driven it 400 miles. Should I be worried that my engine is totally screwed?? Car is still in the shop waiting for parts and I am in the dark and worrying about it!
Which shop is it in? The dealer where you bought it? I’d be pretty pissed at them since it was likely like that when they sold it to you. IMO, they should make it right.
should I get the ATI and have the vette shop pin it on this fix? Plans for a supercharger later this year anyways
thanks everyone!!
And
Originally Posted by FatsWaller
Which shop is it in? The dealer where you bought it? I’d be pretty pissed at them since it was likely like that when they sold it to you. IMO, they should make it right.
bought it from a privately owned show room not like a Chevy or Lexus dealership unfortunately I don’t think they are gonna do anything for me
Yep, the pin would be under the bolt with the exception of ATI, they require you to drill through the crank upright.
My factory HB was pinned for my A&A setup but an aftermarket HB would have been the better option. I wasn't the owner of the car when they did the blower setup. Otherwise, I would have asked to install an ATI or Summit balancer. So far my OEM balancer is doing fine but time will tell...
should I get the ATI and have the vette shop pin it on this fix? Plans for a supercharger later this year anyways
thanks everyone!!
And
bought it from a privately owned show room not like a Chevy or Lexus dealership unfortunately I don’t think they are gonna do anything for me
Yes, get the Summit balancer. ATI is good also but requires a little different pinning. The Summit balancer is a quality piece. ATI is good also but pricier. Can't go wrong with either one.
If you plan to install a charger then you will need an ATI balancer or the other brand (can't recall the name) because you will have to bolt on a blower pulley. So from the get-go might as well start with the ATI balancer- plus it is one of the best balancers.
Call Bob at Brute Speed for best price. Ask if he still has the loaner kit for the ATI pin kit. He will explain why you will need the ATI if you plan to install a charger.
thanks everyone, went with the ATI, shop is gonna pin it!
Heads up. Spend the extra few dollars and install a reusable ARP crank bolt instead of the cheaper torque to yield crank bolt The torque to yield crank bolt is one-time use only.
And you for sure you don't want reuse the stock 'torque to yield crank' bolt based on the torque specs of the bolt and the fact that you are going to add a power adder later. Since it's a roll pin I would have the installer install two instead of one. Don't skimp here. You don't want too loose the expensive ATI balancer due to a lackey not installing it correctly and not torquing the bolt to spec.
Heads up. Spend the extra few dollars and install a reusable ARP crank bolt instead of the cheaper torque to yield crank bolt The torque to yield crank bolt is one-time use only.
And you for sure you don't want reuse the stock 'torque to yield crank' bolt based on the torque specs of the bolt and the fact that you are going to add a power adder later. Since it's a roll pin I would have the installer install two instead of one. Don't skimp here. You don't want too loose the expensive ATI balancer due to a lackey not installing it correctly and not torquing the bolt to spec.
I am an ARP fan when it comes to head bolts/studs, rod bolts, etc, but I have never seen or heard of a factory crank bolt walking out. The balancer is rarely if ever pulled unless its maybe a race car that has the balancer off a lot . A little blue locktite and a new $5 OEM crank bolt has always been fine. Granted, its only about $40, but I never saw the need for the extra.
Has anyone had seen or had one walk out? Honest question, not throwing jabs.
I am an ARP fan when it comes to head bolts/studs, rod bolts, etc, but I have never seen or heard of a factory crank bolt walking out. The balancer is rarely if ever pulled unless its maybe a race . A little blue locktite and a new $5 OEM crank bolt has always been fine. Granted, its only about $40, but I have never saw the need for the extra.
Has anyone had seen or had one walk out? Honest question, not throwing jabs.
I agree. The OEM bolt is fine - the only downside is that it isn't reusable which for most people won't matter. You would need to remove and reinstall the balancer multiple times for the ARP bolt to make financial sense.
For reference - the A&A supercharger kit comes with a pin kit and new OEM bolt. The kit instructions say to put red loctite on the bolt and use a good impact wrench to install until it stops turning. It's not the official GM method, but it works fine and has been done by many many folks without issue.
I am an ARP fan when it comes to head bolts/studs, rod bolts, etc, but I have never seen or heard of a factory crank bolt walking out. The balancer is rarely if ever pulled unless its maybe a race . A little blue locktite and a new $5 OEM crank bolt has always been fine. Granted, its only about $40, but I have never saw the need for the extra.
Has anyone had seen or had one walk out? Honest question, not throwing jabs.
Not common but it is cheap insurance with a supercharger or ProCharger. I don't recall when ProCharger started selling roll pin kits for the ATI balancer for the GM cars running boost. It was definitely an issue because the balancer was slipping on the crank snout with high boost. Lot's of discussion about this issue on google.
I mentioned it to the OP because he stated he was going to add a power adder.
Not common but it is cheap insurance with a supercharger or ProCharger. I don't recall when ProCharger started selling roll pin kits for the ATI balancer for the GM cars running boost. It was definitely an issue because the balancer was slipping on the crank snout with high boost. Lot's of discussion about this issue on google.
I mentioned it to the OP because he stated he was going to add a power adder.
I wasn't meaning anything by my post - I hope you didn't take offense. ARP is solid, solid, solid stuff.
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