On my 08 z, I've had the drivers door stop working. I've swapped the inner buttons with no fix, cleaned the outer contact patches on the press buttons, also with no fix.
I replaced the driver side door actuator and it is still nkt operating 100%. This is a intermittent issue, but has recently gotten very bad.
When i press the interior button, exterior button, there is a click coming from BCM area and the red light on the door panel will blink. Also the window will index downward like it should but the latch doesn't open. I did have the latch operating a handful of times and then it stopped again.
when I manually try to actuate the latch with a snap on scanner, it also doesnt work but you still get that click coming from the BCM area.

At this point, do you think this is a BCM issue? Or possibly wiring?
like I said, the BCM makes a click when the buttons are pressed so is the BCM not sending the power out to the actuator possibly?
Thanks in advance!

 

You should be looking at wiring first before changing parts…it’s best to have a factory level scan tool to look at the door module inputs and outputs…wiring diagram below but unfortunately it’s beyond the scope of this Forum to guide you step by step in this electrical diagnosis.

 

If this electrical testing is over your head seek out an auto electric shop in your area.

 

Thank you!! After alot of testing and going through this above procedures I've concluded (as the instructions say) that I need to replace the RCDLR module behind the center dash bezel. My # that is currently in my car is 25882862.
am I able to replace with another module with same part # without a tech 2 program?

 

Programming still required and hope you guessed right.

 

I found a company called "module mechanics" and I spoke with a person there a few minutes ago regarding their refurbished units and they stated they are 100% plug and play and no reprogramming would be required.
I'm not 100% certain as what to do at this point.

 

My car currently doesn't have TPMS sensors either so I would hope that woukdnt stop them from being able to do the programing...

 

 

Lost here, since your showing the RCDLR board, which should not have any part of the problem over all.

Go into the DIC set up, and shut off auto locking on exit.
Also, if car is moving, then doors will auto lock, and in order to open the door, will need to press the door unlock button, then the door release buttons should work.

As for back to problem, if both the inner door release button, and the external door pad button will not unlock the door, then put tech II on car to monitor BCM data, to see if problem is with the BCM not receiving the inner or pull pad commands, or if problem is down line, with not BCM sending the power to door release acutator to release the door itself. Hence could be a simple if intermittent problems, as having to disconnect the battery, and remove and clean the BCM connectors to resolve any corrosion problems on them or the BCM pins, or connectors up line isntead (and yes, the red BCM connector as well, that has the 8mm bolt that retains it).. Also, double check the grounds, since could be latch assembly is getting positive side, but problem back on the negative side.

And the last one, could be as simple as glitch module, so before anything else, hard reset all the modules in the car. Hence disconnect the battery cables, touch the cables together a few times away from the battery, make sure battery if fully charged, then reconnect positive cable first, then when connecting negative battery cable, once clean shot pushing it in place, then finish tighting up it retainer bolt.

And if it turns out that the problem is corrosion problems at the BCM connector, then get car up on lift, to make sure that the HVAC box drain hose is not clogged, what cause the box to fill up with water, and instead of it dumping the water out the bottom of box, box filled with water to dump it out the vents on top of the BCM instead.
Note, as you use the A/C, humidity in the air freezes on the cold HVAC coils, turns back to water to drop to bottom of HVAC box, and that water should be draining out the HVAV drain line.

Drain hose is 27,

And bottom open in hose has small openning, to keep the bugs out, how it can become clogged up in the first place.
[img]https://www.ecklerscorvette.com/media/catalog/product/cache/e8278bb62b6191f0a2c63cf38a3ced70/2/5/25-853505-1.jpg[/ig]

 

So last night, as the car is completely tore apart for diagnosing these wires, I decided to do what I remembered I done once before to get the latch to actuate. I unplugged the exterior door button pad, plugged it back in and boom, everything worked. For the heck of it, I removed the driver door panel, pulled the wire harness and checked the wires that woukd be in-between the door and body, all was good. Checked the wiper motor module plug and harness, all was good there as well.
A few weeks back in the middle of winter, i cleaned these pads and upon assembly I put dielectric grease on the conductive plate and also the wire connection.
I decided to go back woth contsct cleaner and removal 100% of all the dielectric grease from the inner plate, and plug terminals. I reassembled everything, and along with every connection i cleaned with contact cleaner and blow dried.
The car is now 100% together and knock on wood, it's been working great. I'm not sure if the dielectric grease was to blame possibly or maybe a bad connection, but I did order new switches for interior and exterior sp if it messes up again, I'm going to put those in and I will be able to conclude or rule that all out. This has been a wild few days diagnosing, chasing wires and scratching our heads lol.

 

I don’t think it was the dielectric grease but as you might not know dielectric grease is an insulator so you have to be careful where you use that stuff…you don’t want to use it on circuits such as airbag where a extra ohm of resistance will cause issues and low current computer circuits…they make conductive grease and other products that are much better in these applications…the only place I would use dielectric grease is on the connector mating surfaces and you really don’t need it on any interior connectors of the car.