Two cables on alternator
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12,504
Likes: 3,631
Photo would help (cable both sides and photo of alternator as well), but cable directly from back of alternator, to terminal on fuse box (not the other oem cable that goes to the terminal on the starter solenoid), better had a in fuses in it (about 60 amps)..
Simply, the extra cable is to help more power via lower resistance to get from the alternator to the battery.car via direct to the engine fuse box terminal, since the oem cable is not the best in gauge size, and right before it connects to the terminal on the starter solenoid, that last few inch section is 2 gauges smaller than the main cable itself (slow blow link).
If you can not find a in line fuse on the second cable that goes directly from the alternator back terminal, to the engine fuse block terminal,then disconnect the cable, and either add in 60 amp 2 gauge fuse holder with fuse , or take to someone that can add in 60amp fuse. The oem cable has slow blow link, and the added cable has to have 60amp fuse, since if something happens,need the fuse to blow, isntead of cable setting something on fire as it, or what is powering, does a melt down.
And the last one, if still the Valuo oem alternator in play, that extra cable is a waste of time,since that Oem 140 amp alternator only puts out about 14 amps at idle, while ac running will turn on the raditor fan, that is drawing about 18 amps instead. So when sitting at light with A/C, alternator is not keeping up with needed demand, and your just draining the battery again, until you can get the TPM's up to 2K, so it can keep up with car and start to recharge the battery.
On the other hand, the six pole Mechman 170 amp alternator, puts out 45 amps plus when car is idling,
and where is where you often see the extra alternator to engine fuse box cable with inline fuse in play instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...w-pricing.html
Simply, the extra cable is to help more power via lower resistance to get from the alternator to the battery.car via direct to the engine fuse box terminal, since the oem cable is not the best in gauge size, and right before it connects to the terminal on the starter solenoid, that last few inch section is 2 gauges smaller than the main cable itself (slow blow link).
If you can not find a in line fuse on the second cable that goes directly from the alternator back terminal, to the engine fuse block terminal,then disconnect the cable, and either add in 60 amp 2 gauge fuse holder with fuse , or take to someone that can add in 60amp fuse. The oem cable has slow blow link, and the added cable has to have 60amp fuse, since if something happens,need the fuse to blow, isntead of cable setting something on fire as it, or what is powering, does a melt down.
And the last one, if still the Valuo oem alternator in play, that extra cable is a waste of time,since that Oem 140 amp alternator only puts out about 14 amps at idle, while ac running will turn on the raditor fan, that is drawing about 18 amps instead. So when sitting at light with A/C, alternator is not keeping up with needed demand, and your just draining the battery again, until you can get the TPM's up to 2K, so it can keep up with car and start to recharge the battery.
On the other hand, the six pole Mechman 170 amp alternator, puts out 45 amps plus when car is idling,
and where is where you often see the extra alternator to engine fuse box cable with inline fuse in play instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...w-pricing.html
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2025
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Photo would help (cable both sides and photo of alternator as well), but cable directly from back of alternator, to terminal on fuse box (not the other oem cable that goes to the terminal on the starter solenoid), better had a in fuses in it (about 60 amps)..
Simply, the extra cable is to help more power via lower resistance to get from the alternator to the battery.car via direct to the engine fuse box terminal, since the oem cable is not the best in gauge size, and right before it connects to the terminal on the starter solenoid, that last few inch section is 2 gauges smaller than the main cable itself (slow blow link).
If you can not find a in line fuse on the second cable that goes directly from the alternator back terminal, to the engine fuse block terminal,then disconnect the cable, and either add in 60 amp 2 gauge fuse holder with fuse , or take to someone that can add in 60amp fuse. The oem cable has slow blow link, and the added cable has to have 60amp fuse, since if something happens,need the fuse to blow, isntead of cable setting something on fire as it, or what is powering, does a melt down.
And the last one, if still the Valuo oem alternator in play, that extra cable is a waste of time,since that Oem 140 amp alternator only puts out about 14 amps at idle, while ac running will turn on the raditor fan, that is drawing about 18 amps instead. So when sitting at light with A/C, alternator is not keeping up with needed demand, and your just draining the battery again, until you can get the TPM's up to 2K, so it can keep up with car and start to recharge the battery.
On the other hand, the six pole Mechman 170 amp alternator, puts out 45 amps plus when car is idling,
and where is where you often see the extra alternator to engine fuse box cable with inline fuse in play instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...w-pricing.html
Simply, the extra cable is to help more power via lower resistance to get from the alternator to the battery.car via direct to the engine fuse box terminal, since the oem cable is not the best in gauge size, and right before it connects to the terminal on the starter solenoid, that last few inch section is 2 gauges smaller than the main cable itself (slow blow link).
If you can not find a in line fuse on the second cable that goes directly from the alternator back terminal, to the engine fuse block terminal,then disconnect the cable, and either add in 60 amp 2 gauge fuse holder with fuse , or take to someone that can add in 60amp fuse. The oem cable has slow blow link, and the added cable has to have 60amp fuse, since if something happens,need the fuse to blow, isntead of cable setting something on fire as it, or what is powering, does a melt down.
And the last one, if still the Valuo oem alternator in play, that extra cable is a waste of time,since that Oem 140 amp alternator only puts out about 14 amps at idle, while ac running will turn on the raditor fan, that is drawing about 18 amps instead. So when sitting at light with A/C, alternator is not keeping up with needed demand, and your just draining the battery again, until you can get the TPM's up to 2K, so it can keep up with car and start to recharge the battery.
On the other hand, the six pole Mechman 170 amp alternator, puts out 45 amps plus when car is idling,
and where is where you often see the extra alternator to engine fuse box cable with inline fuse in play instead.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...w-pricing.html
