Hello,

Recently purchased a 2011 Grand Sport with 69k miles on it. Has been done up with a stage 3 cam, 8rib pulleys, headers, injectors, lifters, trays, springs and rods, upgraded transmission, etc. it was built to run.

Long story short, the car was in need of new tires and TPMS sensors. Was throwing service active handling codes, TPMS faults, etc. Needed a new horn relay because they said they couldn't get it to go into learn mode. Replaced the horn relay, then we were able to get the sensors calibrated and working with the car.

I get the new tires and TPMS installed and working, and as I pull out of the parking lot, get the dreaded active handling interference. Car literally put on the brakes. ABS also activated. Ran my Blue Driver code reader, got the steering wheel position sensor malfunction code, same as before the tire install.

I unplugged the steering wheel connector from under the dash so I could drive it home. It wasn’t interfering before the TPMS sensors, but now it is.

The battery terminals were loose, so I replaced those today, nice and tight. Cleaned some of the connectors and added dielectric grease. Cleaned all the battery side engine grounds as well.

Any advice/insights would be useful and appreciated. I got a good deal on the car for all the mods that have been done and I knew there would be some things I’d have to clean up. I talked to the tuner who most recently tuned it and he said everything looked fine to him and the car was running well when it left his shop.

Battery is also reading over 13V when the car is off.

Photos of the codes below for reference.

 

I am going to try the bulletin fix by taping the connection tight to itself and seeing if that helps at all. I didn’t see any tension on it, and the connection seemed secure, but any little play could possibly cause it to act up. Will also see if zip tying the wire out of the way, away from the telescoping wires will remove any tension from it. Again, could also just be the sensor is bad, or out of alignment whenever the prior cam and balancer install was done.

The connection definitely seems to have some play in it. Tried electric tape, but it didn't seem to do much. Code came back on on a short drive through the neighborhood.

 

If the connector has play in it, replace it. Do you really mean the wiring harness is hanging loose or do you really mean the two halves of the connector are not positively locked together? If the former, zip tie it up or buy the actual mounting clip it attaches to. If the latter, replace the connector.

Does it have an aftermarket or otherwise not Original steering wheel on it? If yes, there's a good chance whoever swapped wheels fk'ed up the sensor and it needs to be replaced.

Have you re-calibrated the sensor? Not knowing its history, this may need to be done.

Do you have a real scanner that can see real time data vs a code reader? If no, prepare the parts canon or take the car to a shop that can actually see what's going on.

Bad idea to jack around with the active handling stuff and hope it's fixed only to have it decide to whack out at an inopportune time.

 

It has an OEM steering wheel.

The two halves of the connector seem to have play in them. They snap together, but it seems like they have some jiggle and/or could seat further.

Sensor has not been calibrated since I’ve had it (only a few weeks). Looking into getting a Tech 2 alternative that can do all those things.

I would agree on the active handling being nothing to mess with. I’ll try the zip tie and see if that reduces the error to narrow down if it is that or something else. Worst case scenario, it’ll stay parked or unplug the connector from the wheel to avoid it turning on at an inopportune time.

 

Here is a video showing how jiggly the whole steering wheel position sensor seems to be. If this is normal, someone let me know, and I’ll move onto other diagnostics.

Liink to video showing: SWPS jiggly

 

How much play is there in the other direction? The direction you wiggled it doesn’t really matter. There’s a retainer ring around it that holds the outer part stationary, though there is a tiny bit of play.

If the retainer is positioned correctly, it will stay in place when the steering wheel is turned. However, if the retainer is dislodged — as mine was after a master cylinder replacement — it won’t stay in place and will move with steering input.

 

I apologize but what do you mean in the other direction?

 

 

Thanks for clarifying. See if this video help answer your question.

SWPS lateral jiggle

 

Dielectric grease and zip tie did not fix the active handling issue. I’ll run with it unplugged for now. Will try to find someone with a tool so I can either recalibrate or see if it just isn’t working at all.

 

Update:

I bought bi-directional scan tool. Within 5mins, I identified that the steering wheel position sensor was 360* instead of 0*. So whenever the prior owner installed his camshaft, he must’ve screwed up the re-install.

I reset it, took it for a drive around the neighborhoods and no “Service Active Handling” light came on!!!! Here’s to hoping that’s all it was! Erased all the other historical codes and re-scanned. Came back all clear!

Here’s to hoping!