[Z06] C6 Z06 Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ)

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08-24-2005, 04:04 PM

#21

LTC Z06

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Me at the Nurburgring in C5 Z06.

http://www.racebay.com/links.htm

In the Green Hell and the "pucker" vid you have Mark, a.k.a 360Lemans doing the filming. Our friend and semi-pro driver Christe is in front in a Euro C5. In the green hell vid I'm already pulled over, and in the pucker vid that is the second carousel curve and I purposely left it early to see what would happen, that was a fun day!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZ FASTEST

The time GM uses that was set by Jan Magnussen is 7:42:99 from a standing start. They compare it to the Porsche Carrera GT setting a 7:32:44 time from a flying start. GM states that these times are for a "street-legal car".

That may be the defining term....."street-legal". See Corvette Quarterly, Fall 2005, page 13.

Incidentally, at the dinner following the Sports Car Championships at Monterey, CA, Tom Wallace mentioned that he and Johnny O'Connell had been at the 'Ring a few weeks earlier. Evidently Johnny is getting up to snuff on the track to try and better Jan's time in the Z06.

I say good luck to Johnny!!

Last edited by LTC Z06; 05-20-2007 at 10:42 AM.

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08-27-2005, 10:31 PM

#22

LTC Z06

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The Car&Driver and MotorTrend articles.

Thanks guys
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&forum_id=100

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...5&forum_id=100

Speed Channel Z06 test drive video!!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...61&forum_id=26

Other articles:
Thanks TripleBlack99
http://www.lfpress.com/cgi-bin/publi...icles&s=wheels
http://home.hamptonroads.com/stories...7422&ran=72544

Last edited by LTC Z06; 01-23-2006 at 09:48 AM.

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09-18-2005, 10:39 AM

#23

LTC Z06

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Is it Z oh 6 or Z zero 6?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1552109104

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09-23-2005, 10:29 AM

#24

LTC Z06

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The 2006 C6/Z06 manual.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...0&forum_id=100

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09-27-2005, 10:42 PM

#25

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First dyno run.

Last edited by LTC Z06; 05-18-2007 at 08:28 PM.

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10-11-2005, 01:39 PM

#26

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Octane boost ?

Octane booster discussion.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1599873

Ethanol??????? Good post with info and links.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1385943

The Z06 needs 93.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1&forum_id=100

Octane: Worthwhile to mix 100 to 91 to get 93?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...4&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&forum_id=100

Octane discussion.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/sho...cts&forum_id=74
by LDB
Lots of gasoline comments lately. I’m an engineer for a major oil company, familiar with engine testing for performance, economy, and emissions. I think my company’s gasoline is slightly better than other majors, but I’m not going to use the forum for advertising. Instead, I’ll make a few points about what you should look for in a gasoline. If you do that, my company will get more than an average share of your business.

Octane is generally misunderstood. High octane gasoline isn’t more powerful, it simply offers better resistance to engine knock. Lower than needed octane is a big penalty from knocking and/or spark retard, but higher than needed octane gives no benefits. Sounds odd, but it’s true as described below. Premium gasoline does have some benefits even to a car designed for regular, but those benefits aren’t from octane. They are from some other characteristics which are described at the very end, DI and additives. Let’s talk octane first.

Two main factors set octane requirement: compression ratio and spark advance. Compression ratio is a design feature of the engine, with higher ratios giving better performance, but also requiring higher octane rating. Corvettes need premium gasoline because they are high compression ratio, which requires high octane. Best performance in any given engine is at a particular spark advance, and going in either direction makes poorer performance. But while it costs performance, less than optimum spark advance does have the advantage of lowering octane requirement. So your knock sensor can compensate for low octane fuel by retarding the spark, at a cost in performance. But the reverse is not true. Once octane is high enough to allow optimum spark advance, more octane doesn’t help, because greater than optimum spark advance does not increase performance.

The Corvette gasoline spec is 91. There is some variability in engine response depending on a myriad of other characteristics including engine age, but it’s safe to say that benefits of 93 versus 91 are small, and 94 versus 93 are nil. You can make similar comments about the benefits of greater than 87 octane in a normal car. Its compression ratio is lower, so it can get to optimum spark advance on 87 octane. Running 93 octane will not help turn it into a Corvette, because it doesn’t have the compression ratio to utilize the higher octane.

Bottom line on octane is that benefit of being over manufacturers recommendation is slim to none. The only three things that can cause you to get significant benefit from going higher are: 1) a 100,000 mile engine probably needs a couple of numbers more than new due to various irregularities in an old engine, 2) if you live at high altitude, a couple of numbers over normal spec are usually needed, or 3) if you do major engine modifications to raise compression ratio.

Other issues are a detergent additive package for valve and injector cleanliness, a reliable quality control system, and good DI, drivability index, a measure of how well the fuel evaporates. All majors are roughly equivalent in those areas, and most premium gasolines have more detergent and better DI than most regulars. There are shades of gray differences in additives, but once you are with a major oil company, you need careful tests to see them. All majors (including my own) have had quality control lapses, usually with sulfur (causes odor, emissions, and gas gauge problems), particulates (plugs filters prematurely), and/or water (the worst of all, and can devastate an engine, but this one is almost unheard of with the majors). But when the rare lapse does occur, we quickly correct the problem, including any damage it may have caused. When you buy from the grocery store, or Wal-Mart, or a convenience store, you are much more exposed. Some of the time, those places buy from the majors, and their gas is perfectly OK. But all too often, they buy on the spot market, the cheapest stuff that happens to be floating by on a barge. This gives you higher probability of a serious quality control incident, and also exposes you to poor additives and DI. In the short term, you’d never notice lack of detergent additives, but over time, you engine will foul. DI symptoms are subtle, mostly a rough warm up period, but poor DI also tends to foul the engine, especially if it is short on detergent. So you have to ask yourself, do you want to fuel a $50,000 car from the lowest bidder.

Anyway, at the very end of this tome, I’d advise you to set you minimum standard as being at least recommended octane, from one of the majors. Once you are at that point, differences become small. Does 93 versus 91 or 94 versus 93 make much difference? Probably not, unless you live in the mountains or have an aging engine. Is premium worth it in your regular car for the slightly higher additive concentration and slightly better DI if you don’t need the octane? You have to make that decision. There are benefits, but you are into small stuff. It’s kind of like Mobil 1 versus normal oil. Sure, Mobil 1 is very slightly better. It’s also $4 versus $1 per quart. But that’s another long post, and I’m out of energy for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by......
Too much octane rating when not needed, can infact decrease performance, as the burn rate of the fuel is slowed with higher octane fuel, and can act like timing retard.

Duke is a retired GM engineer.
That's a myth! Normal combustion flame propagation speed is not effected by octane. What octane does is prevent all or some portion of the unburned mixture from reacting virtually instantly, rather than being consumed by the flame front at normal flame propagation speed.

Higher octane than necessary doesn't do any good, but neither does it do any harm other than cost you more for no benefit.

Preignition and detonation are not the same phenomena, but one can lead to the other, which can rapidly damage an engine.

Duke

Last edited by LTC Z06; 01-26-2007 at 10:58 AM.

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10-11-2005, 01:41 PM

#27

LTC Z06

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C6 Z06 brake discussions.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1613466
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...9&forum_id=100

Brembo write up with pics
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1708519
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1498328

Are the stock brakes good enough for the track?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...6&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1555246102

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthony @ LGMotorsports

The StopTech kit uses a ST-60 caliper, and it is a 6 piston caliper as well. The rear uses the ST-40 which is a 4 piston caliper. All of their kits are designed to work with your stock ABS system so that it will not be affected. The StopTech calipers and rotors are also much lighter than the factory units so you are not only loosing total weight but un-sprung weight as well. The StopTech AeroRotors also feature more cooling designs that are not found in many other kits.

You can learn more about their products and the differences between their kits and others here: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/te...e_papers.shtml

Feel free to ask me any questions you might have about the incredible StopTech products.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1440393

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghoffman

Here are a few pics of my new calipers, the new PFC 33 on the revised Hardbar rotors. We will be at NHIS tomorrow final testing them. Check out the pics of the pads next to some stock C6Z pads that are about 60% left! Oh yes, they fit within the stock C6Z wheels with a 1/8 spacer and are 100% made in the USA!
The rotors are $750 a (front) set, the calipers with C6/C6Z mounting hardware $3300, and pads in your choice of PFC compounds are $310 an axle. The SS lines are from DRM and are they same lines that are for the the stock calipers. There is no better system than this at any reasonable price (i.e. carbon/carbon or ceramic at 3x or more this price). This system is 13 pounds less unspung weight (PER CORNER!)than stock with absolutely friggin' amazing stopping power. It will pay for itself with the difference in pads value if nothing else!
We are now taking orders!
PS, I'll be at NHIS tomorrow if anyone wants to see this personally!
Gary Hoffman
Hardbarusa.com
603-682-8073

Will the Z06 brakes fit on a C5/6? Yes they will!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&forum_id=103

part II
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&forum_id=103

If the pictures ever fall off their server go here to see them.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...5&page=1&pp=20

LGM places Stoptech brakes on the front.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&forum_id=100

Brembos added
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1553650505

Movits
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1556365344

Racing Brakes

http://www.racingbrake.com/Two_piece...p/2072-311.htm
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1549721

Some Z06 and big brake kit discussions:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&page=1&pp=20
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...9&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...4&forum_id=100

Ceramic pads for the Z06?No
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1451230

Drilled vs. non-drilled rotors a test
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1357139
Just starting receiving SAE papers and got one where some GM engineers test drilled vs. non-drilled rotors for performance. The did not test stopping distances or a slotted rotor. They tested for fade, cooling, and wet braking performance. They referenced the conflicting information you get from brake manufacturers and the internet forums. They did not state the cars but from the descriptions one is a vette with drilled and non-drilled rotors and the other one is a 911. They did simulated street, race track, and dynometer testing. Some of the conclusions will surprise you. Bottom line: Drilled brake rotors do slow a car down better and it is exponential as speed increases. Drilled rotors have less fade. They could not confirm if this is due to out-gassing but it is due to mechanical friction and scrubbing of the pads; and cooling which is also better. They did state that pad and rotor life is twice as short compared to non-drilled rotors. They were not better in the wet.

and some pics from SMOKNC6Z06 a Supporting Vendor and LGM's Stoptechs:

Quote:

Originally Posted by sdoow

RacingBrake is relatively new to Corvette community, although we have been building performance brake kits for EVO, STi/WRX, 350Z/G35, NSX, RX8, SRT4, BMW, and now RX7. We started getting involved with the two piece rotor development for Z06 & Z51 in February 06 from designing, tooling, testing, to product release in September 06. Here is the history of two piece rotor development:
http://forums.racingbrake.com/viewtopic.php?t=79

After customers have installed our two piece rotors and been impressed with the outstanding performance, they asked us to further develop a complete brake kit. However, we believe the stock brake system has its good value to be preserved except some improvements need to be addressed. Here are some solutions that we have come up that we believe would fit all Corvette owners with different level of requirement in upgrading their brakes.

A. Retaining OE calipers:

Upgrade stock pads to Hawk (Street / Motorsports) or RB brake pads

Stock Pads - Z06 owners seem to have complained that there is limited aftermarket pads available and the cost of replacement is too expensive. We worked with Hawk to make racing compound available in addition to the street compound. We noticed that Carbotech is also very popular, however for some serious racers their XP pads do not hold up well (brake deposit) against those true racing pads such as Raybestos (ST series), Hawk (DTC series), or Pagid.

In response RacingBrake is tooling up to make this brake pad (PD1185) with thicker friction material (~15% more) for both street and track duty and they will be cost effective (Available March 07). More detail to follow.
Replace pad bolts with RB's specially designed EZ bolts

Problem:

Solution:
Replace stock with RB's EZ bolt that will allow you to use a standard M10 socket wrench which will make pad replacement simple and easy. (ETA March 2007)
Brake Rotor Upgrade

Problem:
Stock rotors are curved vane but are made from the same tooling (left or drivers side only) instead of left & right, which makes the cooling on right hand side worse than a straight vane rotor - unbalanced heat load.

Solution:
Upgrade stock one piece to RB two piece rotors (ready to ship).

Why should I upgrade to two-piece rotor?
http://www.racingbrake.com/main/two_...or_upgrade.asp
- Weight Savings: (front stock rotor weighs beyond what the electronic scale can handle).
  
  RB rear two piece rotors use the iron hat as OE instead of aluminum hat like competition.
Learn how RB two piece rotors are built differently from others:
http://www.racingbrake.com/main/two-...r_assembly.asp

See the review and discussion about RB two piece rotors:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1549721

Upgrade stock brake lines to RB stainless steel brake lines

B. Stock Caliper Upgrade: (Available March 2007)

Replacing stock calipers with RB's lightweight yet track duty truly high performance aluminum calipers using single piece brake pads (see above). These calipers are specifically designed for track racing purpose and the pistons are sized to have the same F/R brake ratio as stock with differential bores.

For those who are upgrading from stock to RB caliper brake kit, the following brake pads will be used which are non FMSI standard pads, but are very popular in the racing industry:

RB 6-pot Front Brake Kit

Available from Hawk (HB122), AP (CP3894D51), Pagid (1852), Raybestos, and PFC etc. with various compounds.

RB 4-pot Rear Brake Kit

Available from Hawk (HB110), AP (CP2279D50), Pagid (1361), Raybestos, and PFC etc. with various compounds.

These upgrades can be implemented on a progressive basis with incremental investment. Our brake kits use two piece stock rotors (14” front and 13.4” rear), so your purchase of RB two piece rotors can be used for next level of complete brake kits upgrade, all you need is to add the calipers and adaptors. You maintain the freedom of choice in your brake upgrades at the pace of your need and budget.

RacingBrake Corvette brake kits are engineered and built around OE configuration, i.e. with iron hat on rear drum brake and require no wheel spacer, no need to modify the lower ball joint to install.

RB brake products are backed by our money back satisfaction guarantee for the performance, price (initial and replacement cost) and look.

More detail on calipers to follow.

Any comment or feedback will be appreciated.

Attached Images

Last edited by LTC Z06; 05-18-2007 at 09:36 PM.

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10-20-2005, 03:43 PM

#28

LTC Z06

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Convertible discussions.

And another
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1504320

He put the LS7 and body panels on his C6 Vert
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1473534
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1476344

From a GM engineer:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&forum_id=100

Thread with links to vendors that are doing conversions.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1385874

Quote:

Originally Posted by DJWorm

Or should I say whiners? It seems this board has a lot of them continually beating the dead horse.

I recently spoke to some GM engineers while I was consulting on another project.

1. All agreed that it was possible to strengthen C4 & C5 Coupe & Hardtop (FRC) steel frames to Convertible strength by gussetting and welding. Thus it was possible to convert a C5 Z06 FRC in to a Z06 Vert. Plus many C4 racers used the C4 Vert frame gussets to model their strengthening of a C4 Coupe frame OR just used a C4 Vert frame as a basis to build up a C4 coupe racer

2. Concerning the C6 Z06 Aluminum frame; it is strictly NOT possible to up grade it's strength to enable a convertible conversion. Too much welding would be necessary and would probably weaken the frame further (this would include gussetting, strengthening the current welds and replacing all the blind rivets with welded structure). The integral Magnesium fixed roof is necessary for the frame strength and resistance to untoward harmonics. Their recomendations for those wanting a convertible Z06 would be to start with a C6 steel framed convertible and add the Z06 appointments, trim, options, transmission, differential, clutch, brakes, wheels and engine or just modify a convertible as desired.

3. They brought forward an example that many have NOT considered before. A car that could have greatly benefitted from an Aluminum frame and its weight saving is the Pontiac Solstice and Chevy/Saturn SKY. It is more than 400#'s heavier than its competition, Mazda's new Miata replacement, the MX5. The reason an Aluminum frame was NOT considered (although testing was done) for this car is the fact that it only comes as a convertible and the necessary harmonics an frequency could not be achieved even in this lighter car.

So a convertible based on a hydroformed channeled Aluminum ladder frame in the heavier Z06 Corvette JUST IS NOT POSSIBLE.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...5&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...t&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...e&forum_id=100

From SW:
I was at MTI last week and saw these. They belong to a father and son that wanted ZO6 convertables. Since Chevy doesn't build them, they decided to build them themselves. They purchased all factory ZO6 body panels and had them installed and dropped both cars at MTI for 427s!!

SW

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...3&forum_id=100

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcv

Here's a Callaway SuperNatural 550 Convertible that's just been completed and handed off to Eric from the selling Chevy dealer, Wilton Motors in Wilton, CT. The new owner's assistant picked the car up at our Connecticut facility this morning and is driving it home to Washington, DC. Her first Corvette driving experience!

This particular SuperNatural Convertible is equipped with our 550 hp, 427 cid optional engine package, calibrated for its paddle-shift automatic. Plus, we installed Z06 body panels to take advantage of the lighter carbon fiber front fenders and the wider rear fenders. The body panels really enhance the appearance as well. The new owner wanted his car to match the color of the brick facade of his building, so the body was completely disassembled to change the Velocity Yellow car to a custom color: "Seneca Creek Sandstone Metallic".

The Caravaggio targa!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1415686
Well we are finally done, it took longer then we thought it would due to having to do extensive reinforcement. It also has changed the price dramatically because of all the extra work that goes into it. The new price for the conversion is $10,995.00 and takes 3 weeks from start to finish. We currently have 2 reds and one yellow that we are doing that are all for sale. If you interested p.m. and I will send you all the info of the car broker that we are working with.

Complete wide body conversion info and a good parts list for Z06 guys:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1591602

Attached Images

Last edited by LTC Z06; 01-06-2007 at 10:31 PM.

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10-21-2005, 09:06 AM

#29

LTC Z06

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Track Reviews and discussions.

Visit our auto-x and road racing forum
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23

Alignments for the track
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1557831526

Weight savings
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1555535831

MTI areo parts
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1531024

Windshield tear offs

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoHo

Just a heads up for you guys that frequently track your car or do some serious SCMR's and your windshields are paying the price, I was on line and found a company called Pro Tint that now has Tear Offs for Corvettes, these are not shown in their on line catalog as there to new but they sent me reply today.

They come in 1, 2 and 4 layer applications, give them a call for more info.

Contact Tim Krack
Cell # 704-361-7308 or
1-800-553-8673

Quote:

Originally Posted by XC5VETTE

http://www.protint.com/index2.ivnu

Quote:

Originally Posted by LG Motorsports

Our race car uses our own pick up points in a new location on the frame. We don't use the stock points just because we wanted to change the wheel rate.

I had our coil over package on the new Z06 for 6000 miles with at least 25 track tests and there were no issues. Plus we have plenty of Customer C6 Z06Track cars that have more time than that on them.

In fact GM made the forged shock mounts for the aluminum frame that are in fact supposed to be stronger than the steel frame and mounts. With the way the forged shock mounts are built, I can't see any issues with a coil over.

The aluminum shock mounts are already gusseted and strengthened on the frame so the loads are nicely distributed.

And if you take a normal shock mount, and hit a severe bump, the "shock" loads or instantaneous loads are so high that they exceed the small load of a 700 or 800 pound spring since the spring can only exert a force equal to the spring rate on the mounting point.

On the other hand the shock can almost go infinite on a hard bump due to the forces that come into play trying to force the shock fluid through the shock valving at a rate that is not possible. So the forces on a shock over a sudden bump can exert a force greater than a mere spring. (force=mass X acceleration) Where the mass can be either the unsprung weight of the A arm, brake assembly etc. Or in some bumps it can be the sprung weight of the car on that corner. And the faster the shock compresses the closer it comes to infinite rate unless the shock has a significant bleed or a blowoff inside.

So a shock set at a very stiff bump setting can emulate a solid connection between the A arm and the shock mount, where the spring can only exert a force equal to the spring.

So it is not the coil over spring that is the issue. the stock shock points are built to be much more than enough to handle the loads.

I am getting ready to install the Coil overs on my 07 car and i will take some good photos to post up.

Thanks
Lou Gigliotti

Have fun with your new Coil over package.

Track equipment
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1668389

Quote:

Originally Posted by C5stein

I guess it is your life (or health) and that of your passenger. As required in order to become HANS Installing Dealer, I have gone to training for cockpit and driver safety, presented Dr. Hubbard as well as several NASCAR officials, as well as read many harness manufacturer's installation guidelines and not one of them recommended running a submarine strap forward, and not one of them recommended running a sub strap over and around the front of the bottom seat cushions. I do not know your backgrounds as far as race car builders or preparers go, but to everyone else I would say, do your research, and make your own decisions, but I'm confident that if you showed up for an SCCA or NASCAR sanctioned event with sub straps mounted like this, you would probably not be allowed to run until you re-routed them.

Your position about crushing the family jewels or knocking the wind out of yourself by routing the sub rearward under your legs has no merit, as I'm sure that no one would voluntarily jump out of airplanes if every time they pulled the shoot with a similarly designed and routed harness, that they got the wind knocked out of them and the "boys" crushed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghoffman

I agree with Mark totally, running them forward is incorrect, since you "can't push a rope" and the shop that mentioned that has no understanding of the term "force vector". There is no possible way to put your spine in compression by sitting the sub belts. The way to really have spinal compression, is to have your shoulder belts below your shoulders in a forward hit. We have had several people "test" our system in real world conditions (on this forum) including multiple 90-120MPH head on' hits and walk away. The best solution is the Teamtech Jet Pilot that eliminates the separate sub belts altogether and is like a parachute harness that totally constrains your upper torso and lower pelvic area.
Yes I sell them, but it is what I personally use as well.

TEAMTECH Jet Pilot,Patent #5,306,044
This Uniquely Patented design incorporates padded leg straps for zero "Forward Excursion of the pelvis underneath the lab belt"(also called Submarining). This System is similar in function to a repelling harness. The adjustable anti-submarining straps wrap around the upper thighs of each leg and attach to the latch/link buckle(or rotary buckle) lap belt. This harness also comes with chest and pelvic pads, a sternum strap, and lumbar support to complete the Jet Pilot system. These harnesses have the most anti-Submarine control available in addition to further limiting any awkward sideways leg movement and pivoting of the pelvis in the seat. This support is essential during off-road and road race and marine racing courses where compound off center horizontal - vertical movements and high deceleration rates are extreme. If you need to stay put in your seat, and not slide under the lap belt, the Jet Pilot Harness is designed especially for you. The Jet Pilot harness is only available with pull-up lap belt adjustments.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast & Lazy

I promised to post some photos of the tow hook arrangement I (my shop) installed on my Z to winch it into my trailer or, if necessary, onto a flatbed tow truck without incurring damage to the front of the car.

I tried to show what the receivers look like from many different angles. (Just ignore the rust you see in the threads.)

Anyway, the whole front facia came off and we bolted some custom fit brackets to the aluminum frame. The receivers were welded to the brackets and poke through an area we cut out in the plastic grill. (Almost looks like a James Bond car with some machine guns coming out of the grill.) They are actually not very noticeable unless you know they are there. The eye-bolts only come out as far as necessary to be able to tighten or loosen them with a pipe or screwdriver or .....

Now you should notice that the eye-bolts are also custom made and are specific to either the driver or passenger side so that the orientation of the loop when tightened down is at 90 degrees. (This makes it look pretty!)

The strap should be self-explanatory and is used to winch the car onto a flatbed tow truck or into my trailer.

This particular design is not intended to withstand tremendous lateral force such as being pulled out of a sandtrap at Laguna Seca and the tow truck is not pulling straight in front of the car. I'm actually not sure how much force it will withstand, but if it is in the mud and being pulled at an angle, I wouldn't want to watch.

Anyway, the link to the photos is below. If you have any questions, let me know.

F&L

http://richard.i2photo.com/06 Z06 Front Tow Hooks

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghoffman

This was with a little less than 1/2 tank of gas.

now with driver (me)

Quote:

Originally Posted by allanlaw

Time for a break from the silly posts about the Z having too much power. I had the alignment adjusted for the umpteenth time and did a track day at Buttonwillow on almost-new Nitto NT555RII tires (18" all around). This gave me a good chance to see the results of our latest alignment. For background, we were running Configuration # Race 13 clockwise (you can see it at http://www.buttonwillowraceway.com). The "offramp," "cotton corners" and "grapevine" are particularly hard on the front tires (and brakes, but that's another story for later), and the ambient temp got up to around 95 the afternoon. The car was flawless, and when I went to the alignment shop today to check our handiwork, we all agreed the tire wear was about as perfect as you can get it. So, here are my recommended alignment specs for use with these (or similar) tires, for track and street use:

Camber front, minus 1.70
Camber rear, minus 1.30
Toe, 0
Caster, 8.0 or as close to that as you can get it.

With softer tires, you would possibly need more negative camber; with the stock runflats, maybe less. The car might have to be lowered to get more negative camber in the back.

By the way, the oil level (as measured in the required manner) was about half-way between the lower and middle holes on the dipstick, before and after (although I was running fairly high rpm's when under throttle), no burping oil problems, no significant oil consumption noted.

The car continues to amaze . . .

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1392934

MTI Racing
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1602196

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Last edited by LTC Z06; 05-21-2007 at 04:24 PM.

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10-21-2005, 07:20 PM

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LTC Z06

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Z06 specific part numbers.

As requested, we'll update this as we get them, just let me or the other mods know.

calipers
fr 19121789
fl 19121788
rr 19121803
rl 19121802

rotors
fr 19121787
rr 19121797

frt pads 19121809 and rear pads 19121811

Oil filters:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1552933054
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1691105
From Bob Procter
Fram PH2849A
Fram Model PH10060
Purolator L20073
Purolator Model L12222
Wix 51083
PF 48 part # si 89017524
Mibil 1 M1-113

Last edited by LTC Z06; 05-01-2007 at 02:58 PM.

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10-26-2005, 01:46 PM

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Wheel and Tire section.

I'll add threads dealing with wheels and tires.

Going to different wheels? Must have the air pressure sensors active.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...4&forum_id=100
David Farmer talking about this issue in the road racing section.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...84&forum_id=23
Offset
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...l&forum_id=100
Wheel weights
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...l&forum_id=100
CCW race wheels
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...s&forum_id=100

...and some pics of Z06 front and rear brake ducts.

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Last edited by LTC Z06; 01-26-2006 at 07:08 PM.

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10-26-2005, 07:38 PM

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How to install a switch for muffler valve activation.

Where is the fuse located?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1389303

Quote:

Originally Posted by phantasms

passenger footwell.

pull back crappy mat......pull back carpet. (it's like opening Data's head on StarTrek

)

On the flipside of the carpet you'll see a chart of the fuses in front of you. It's the tiny fuse on the bottom right. Use the white fuse tweezers to pull it out.

Enjoy!

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...0&forum_id=100

and...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1552872737
from: jlvink66
The installation of an exhaust cut-out switch is definitely worth the hassle. The first day I had the car I had the fuse pulled which left the exhaust in the "aggressive" mode. I love the meaner deeper growl when the cut-outs are open. But, if you start cruising down the Hiway at 75 MPH in 6th gear, you are turning 1600 RPM and there is enough of a loud resonance that it is difficult to listen to your CDs/radio. It is obviously very difficult to put the fuse back in while driving. What is needed is a little switch to go from the "aggressive" mode to the "quiet cruise" mode at will. By the way, based on the feedback from my significant other, another name for the "quiet " mode is the "wife" mode.

Below is the finished product.

Your first decision is whether you want to light a little LED in the switch to differentiate between the two modes. Since there is always power applied to the exhaust cutout fuse, the LED will be on when the switch is in the "quiet cruise" mode. The LED will stay on in this mode even when the car is not running. When the LED is off, the switch is in the "aggressive" mode. This means if you decide to go with the LED, you should always leave the switch in the aggressive mode when you shut the car down or you risk some long term battery drain. This is OK with me because I'll leave it in the "aggressive" mode 95% of the time.

STEP 1: Modify a fuse

The easiest way to make the mods to switch the fuse in/out is to modify a fuse so that you don't have to get to the wiring harness behind the fuse panel. I followed another thread on how to do this modification: http://www.z06vette.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89633

Modifying a fuse without having it fall apart was the toughest part of this whole process. Buy a few extra fuses from the auto parts store and try to keep your cool! I used 18 gage wire. Make sure you epoxy or RTV the end of the fuse after you solder the wires to it to give it some structural strength.

Step 2: Remove the mounting panel

There is a little removeable panel in front of the center console glove box. Open the glove box and gentley pry out on the bottom of the panel to pop it out.

Step 3: Drilling the panel

The switch that I used required that a 15/16" hole be drilled in the panel. Since I only had a 1" spade drill, I used it and compensated for the tendancy of the switch to rotate by applying a little RTV to the back of the switch after it was snapped into the panel. If you use my approach for drilling the hole, make sure you have the panel well clamped or you will tear it apart while drilling. After drilling, smooth the edges of the new hole with sandpaper.

I bought the switch at Radio Shack, p/n 275-731. This is what the panel looks like after it is drilled;

Step 3: Install modified fuse/harness and ground lug

The fuse panel is under the passenger footwell. Pull the carpet back and then flap the cover back to access the fuse panel.

If you want to light the LED you will need a ground return and I decided to attach a ground wire lug from the shielded electronic box mount screw next to the fuse panel.

I added an inline fuse that accepts the same mini fuses as the fuse panel to one of the lines running from the modified fuse/harness. I bought the inline fuse holder at Kragens Auto Parts (Cooper Bussman p/n BP/HHM).

Remove the existing fuse that is labeled as "spare" (lower right side of fuse panel) and plug in the modified fuse/harness into the fuse slot. Bend the harness into the right shape so that the modified fuse/harness wants to stay in the fuse socket.

Step 4: Threading harness along tranny tunnel

Pull the carpet and insulation along the passenger tranny tunnel back starting near the fuse panel. Pull the front part of the Emergency Brake boot back (there is a clip that pops out rather easily).

The wire harness is routed from the fuse panel and then in back of the tranny tunnel insulation and up into the Emergency Brake boot area. You can then poke the harness underneath the center console and into the cavity where the panel mounts.

Step 5: Attach spade lugs and connect to switch

Mount the switch to the panel (it snaps in place) and apply a little RTV to the back side so that the switch will not rotate.

Attach spade lugs to each wire and plug them into the back of the switch. For the Radio Shack switch the two fuse wires plug into terminals 1 and 2, the ground wire plugs into terminal 3.

Step 6: Pop panel/switch back in place

Snap the panel/switch back in place and enjoy your ability to change your exhaust note at will!

LGM switch kit and other cool ones:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1&forum_id=100
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1553407433

Quote:

Originally Posted by GoTreo

All,

I just modified my Mild 2 Wild exhaust switch to run in "Mild" mode by default. Then when you hit the ON switch on your remote, "Wild" mode is entered.

It is a very simple modification but requires confidence with a soldering iron. Below is a picture of the modification.

Enjoy.....

Jeff

INSTRUCTIONS

To begin the modification, you will need to remove the 2 screws that hold the black mild-2-wild box together. Once you have the box opened you will see what is pictured below.

In the picture you see the Labels:

A - Point where you need to sever the electical connection. I did this using a dremel drill with a fine dental bit. Be very careful in this step but what you want to do is break the electrical connection at this point.
B - Is the 12V OUT from the switch.
C - This is a new wire that joins the "B" and "C". You will need to solder this wire in place after you have done step "A".
D - Is the new 12V OUT from the switch.

Once you have severed "A" and then joined "B" and "D" with wire "C", you are done! The default mode in this mild-2wild is now QUIET.

"On item C you mean joins B and D correct?"
Yes. You want to join joints "B" and "D" together. This modification is just causing the switch to use the normally closed side of the relay.

I also just found out that Radio Shack sells a solderless pen. With this pen you just draw a line from "B" to "D" and it will form an electrical connection. This would eliminate the need to solder anything! I will post the link after I find it.
The mod is so simple though!
Here is the link to the circuit pen that will remove the need to do any soldering.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
All you need to do is break the connection at point "A" and draw a line from "B" to "D" with this pen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2TONLT1

Here is an alternate approach that does not require cutting the PC board or using the pen approach (which might not provide a low enough resistance to carry the current).

There is plenty of room in the box to simply unsolder the white wire and flip it over the board and solder it directly to the pin on the relay.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstaab

For about $15 in parts and an hour of your time you can build a Z06 exhaust valve switch if you like DIY projects.

You need a SPST switch [Radio Shack], with or without a LED, a mini "add a circuit" [local auto parts store], 3 feet of 18 gauge two or three conductor wire, some shrink tubing, and crimp connectors.

Take a spare fuse and cut one leg from it.

If you have a LED switch you need 3 wires. A power wire from the "add a circuit" to the switch, a load wire back to the "add a circuit" , and a ground wire for the LED. If you have a non LED switch you do not need the ground wire. Solder the leg you cut from the spare fuse to the load wire and insert it into one slot of the "add a circuit" as shown in the photo.

Plug the "add a circuit" into the fuse block orientated as shown in the picture below with the ground wire attached to one of the mounting screws for the radio amp.

Remove the small panel on the console and mark the location for the switch. If using the round LED switch use the appropriate hole saw to drill the hole. Tip: use blue painters tape on the surface you are drilling to give you a clean edge around the hole and use a slow speed drill so you cut the plastic and not melt it from friction of the hole saw.

Mount the switch in the panel. Run the wire under the edge on the console and pull through the opening in the console. Crimp connectors to the wires and install on the switch. Snap the panel in place and test your new switch for proper operation. If you use a LED switch the LED will be on when the exhaust valve circuit is on [stock mode].

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Last edited by LTC Z06; 05-02-2007 at 11:55 PM.

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11-13-2005, 10:10 PM

#33

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Sound reduction for the C6 Z06.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1552772791

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12-03-2005, 09:35 PM

#34

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LS1 vs. LS7 crank.

Thanks Bill Reid
Enjoy...

Bill

The connecting rods and intake valves used in the Corvette Z06 LS7 engine are made of titanium.

Using chlorinated solvents to clean titanium parts causes the surface finish to become brittle, damaging the part. The damage cannot be detected by normal visual inspection. Additionally, spraying chlorinated solvents into the throttle body of a running engine (for throttle body cleaning) will introduce the solvent to the intake valves and possibly into the engine oil.

The following notice is being added to the appropriate SI sections.

NOTICE: Do not clean titanium components with chlorinated solvents. Brake parts, and similar cleaning solvents, safety solvents, or Freon that contains chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) should not be used.

Using chlorinated solvents to clean titanium components can result in component damage, leading to stress corrosion cracking that may be undetected with normal visual inspection.

Acceptable materials for cleaning titanium components include non-chlorinated solvents, alcohol, acetone, and methanol.

A listing of products without and with chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs) appears in the TechLink website Reference Guide.

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Last edited by LTC Z06; 12-26-2005 at 12:59 PM.

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12-04-2005, 08:57 PM

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Torque specs.

From David Farmer:
have done these for the C5, F-body, now the C6. I print on two sides, then laminate and keep in my shop/tool box.

C6 Vette Torque Specs
for Automatic trans http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/C6-Torque-Auto.PDF
for manual trans http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/C6-Torque-Manual.PDF

here are the other favorites from my tool chest:
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/c5-fuse.pdf C5 fuse layout-not year specific
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/C5torque.PDF All engine/suspension/brake/drivetrain torque specs
http://www.metricchemical.com/align.PDF my diy alignment guide

http://www.metricchemical.com/fbody.pdf F-body torque sheet

and lastly, DTC (trouble codes) for C5's
http://www.davidfarmerracing.com/dtc-c5.PDF

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12-07-2005, 07:16 PM

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Weight reduction.

A good thread with numbers.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1553059120

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12-11-2005, 01:19 PM

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Tire Pressure Sensor Reset

From allanlaw:

I have tested all known methods (magnet, etc.) to reset the tire pressure sensors, and have concluded that the only method that will work is with the radio transmitter tool (as set forth in the yet-unavailable service manual). This is true for the '06 Z06 and is or will be true for all C6's as the older style pressure sensors (which would work with magnet or with transmitter) are phased out. The tool is available from Bartec - call Scot at (586) 685-1300, tell him you're from the Corvette Forum and need the tool for the new Z06 (it's a DXR+, I think). Normal price is $299, but members will get a $265 price including shipping by priority mail. Tire pressure sensor sets (including necessary hardware) for track wheels, etc., can be obtained from our Forum GM vendors for under $200. I'm afraid there is no other practical way to do this. The only other possible work-around for the TPWS is to pull a fuse, but it is unclear how many other systems would be affected and what other problems might arise.

I am interested in any feedback, but please confine yourself to comments regarding either '06 model year C6's in general or C6Z06's (customer cars with VINS higher than 0320, not early captive fleet models) since different components were used in '05.

and read the rest of the thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...2&page=1&pp=20

New info as of 19 Jan 06:
TPS Report from the Field

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I mounted my track tires which have a new set of TPS sensors, but DID NOT reset the car to those sensors. Then I set off on an 80 mile trip to Willow Springs. At about 30 minutes into the trip the DIC displayed a TPS system warning message. Hit reset, and the message disappeared, and did not reappear until I restarted the car after reaching my destination. Reset and the message disappeared again. However, while TC could be disengaged, AH could not be disengaged nor could the car be put in COMP mode. I then did the TPS reset with the radio tool, and all was well with the TPS system. My Z is a fairly early model (VIN 00504).

The only variable I'm not sure of is whether the presence of an unrecognized set of sensors caused the car to go into a deeper mode of protection than would have been the case had there been no sensors at all. I don't know. But I do know that the car could not have been driven at the track without going into COMP mode or turning AH off altogether - R compound tires and full AH mode will not cut it at Willow Springs.

Another bit of the puzzle . . .

The thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...6&forum_id=100

Last edited by LTC Z06; 01-19-2006 at 11:38 AM.

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12-14-2005, 01:59 PM

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iPod your car.

A very good thread.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1479169
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...856&forum_id=1
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1381574

Or not! Warning, please read!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1437695

Warning about the Neucleus NC-X2i iPod adapter

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1554552

Quote:

Originally Posted by Just J

Just got off the phone with service. My "battery won't hold a charge" problem is due to a 3 amp drain on the battery even when everything is off, which they say is being caused by the Neucleus NC-X2i I had put in. According to them, GM has a bulletin out which says that the iPod adapter which uses the XM input on the head unit causes the audio system to continue to draw power even when the car is off.

So, it's coming out, and I'll go back to an FM transmitter for my iPod connectivity. Which is a shame, because otherwise I really liked it.

Last edited by LTC Z06; 11-28-2006 at 12:27 PM.

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01-15-2006, 02:43 AM

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Front license plate mounting.

Many solutions in this thread for you poor people that live in those states.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...6&page=1&pp=20

...but don't forget to do a search in the C6 General section, they've been dealing with this problem for awhile.

Last edited by LTC Z06; 01-15-2006 at 11:46 AM.

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01-15-2006, 07:08 PM

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Do you need a Cold Air Intake on the C6 Z06?

Jim Hall of Halltech says no. The Z06 has a functional, well thought out, Cold Air Intake.

Jim's new Z06 Air filter:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1418767

Entire thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...0&page=1&pp=20

Jim's first post:
If you have a C6 Z06, you have cold air already. In fact, our testing shows that the amount of forced air that is directed into the AIS hooded shroud requires that the gasket sealing it to the front bumper NOT be removed. When the gasket is removed, the forced air actually causes severe turbulence at the mouth of the Donaldson PowerCore filter, which promotes severe bucking and surging at very low throttle postitions, especially in fifth and sixth gear.

If you take a trouble light and put it on the end of the AIS, partially close the hood, then shut off the lights in your shop, you can see the light coming through the NACA duct on the front fascia.

IT WORKS.

The methodology here was to provide extreme volumes of forced air into the AIS vestibule, but not directly into the filter itself. The hooded shroud around the AIS protects the filter from airflow turbulence and water. When airflow comes in the NACA ducting it flows over the hooded shroud and is then pulled up into the filter itself.

We are testing a High Flow version of this filter and will have one ready for the market in about 2 months when our testing is finished. We now have two full months of testing and have come to the conclusion that GM's stock AIS is a winner. It outflows our C6 Stinger SSM by 4%, but that is when compared to the intregal C6 screened MAF sensor vs. the Hitachi Probe MAF sensor.

The new Hitachi Probe MAF sensor is sooooooo sensitive to turbulence, that GM had to work on the MAF location, calibration, and filter design for months before getting it all right.

I have not tested the bottom breathers yet, but it will be a challenge to get them to work in this application.

There is no sales pitch here, since we are not considering using the Stinger on the Z06, when their present design mandates a complete re-engineering of our efforts.

More information: http://www.corvettels7.com/products/intake_systems.html

Jim

From an older thread:
Z06 Cold Air scoop, it does work.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...0&forum_id=100
"The new Z06 sports factory cold air induction. Some have suggested that there is no functional NACA ducting on the front fascia, but that is not true. You can hold a light up to the bumper area just behind the duct-work and see light from the outside of the car. This is not ram air, but it is forceful cold air induction. The stock airbox has a shroud around the end of the airbox, and a rubber gasket that seals it against the front bumper. Take this gasket off and you will get so much airflow across the front of the airbox, that is actually causes severe bucking and surging. So much so, that the car feels like it is missing. With the gasket in place, the forced air actually comes in and around the airbox, and is then sucked into the filter area. This is the best of the best for cold air, since there is no chance of water ingestion." - Jim Hall

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1555740908
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1645916

Quote:

Originally Posted by kelp

A number of regular and Z06 owners expressed an interest in a cold air intake. Some commercial units are available. I decided to share my construction, and also include a useful air diverter. You need an air diverter because otherwise the air will pass right by the vertical opening behind the grill.

Here is the diverter cut from plexiglass, which I like because it is transparent and easy to work with

Passenger side diverter in place:

Driver side diverter in place:

The modified fascia extension:

A view from the top of the diverter

Finished product enhancing the appearance.

Nice project taking a couple of hours. I think I got tinypic.com straight now. If not, I'll try again.

I also cutout the nose vent and installed the mesh there. It is black, though. Today I'll work on the side vents if I can figure out how to get at them.

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Last edited by LTC Z06; 03-10-2007 at 09:09 PM.

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