[Z06] Brake Pads ? Which Is Best All Around
03-27-2008, 04:20 PM
#1
Racer
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Brake Pads ? Which Is Best All Around
I've had the stock pads up until my last HPDE when I switched to the Hawk HPS (not HP+) pads. I had 6,200 miles on the stock pads with about 4 track and 3 autocross days on them. I had about 25% to 35% wear on the pads. Since I was getting more involved with track events, I thought the Hawk is next logical step. The HPS pads, front and back run anywhere from $228 to $260, depending on where you buy them....reasonable price to pay. I did two days at Roebling and wore out the left front so much (80%) I need to replace them. The stock Z06 pads run about $363 for the front, and the same for the back even though it has only 2/3 of the pads (8 vs 12). From discount suppliers, cost is down to around $500 to $580.
I run hard on the track but also use the car on the street. I haven't tried the HP+ yet since I was afraid it was too aggressive on the rotors and made noise like a wounded eagle. Those of you with experience, fill me in on which way to go. I'm not ready to change over to Brembo or Stop Tech. What pads do you recommend for combined use ? Also, which pads wear the best or last the longest based on your experiences ?
I run hard on the track but also use the car on the street. I haven't tried the HP+ yet since I was afraid it was too aggressive on the rotors and made noise like a wounded eagle. Those of you with experience, fill me in on which way to go. I'm not ready to change over to Brembo or Stop Tech. What pads do you recommend for combined use ? Also, which pads wear the best or last the longest based on your experiences ?
03-27-2008, 07:42 PM
#2
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St. Jude Donor '08
I asked a similar question....from the answers I got the best of both worlds are the stock OEM pads.....that's what I'm sticking with for now as I'm new to the track as well....
03-27-2008, 08:55 PM
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I would like to know as well. I've tried some racing pads that caused black speks on wheels that will not come off when I used them hard at HPDE's. I have heard the the Hawk HP+ do the same thing though. Based on that the OEM pads probably the best for my use. I used the OEM pads at HPDE's in the beginning and they did fine. I'll probably go back to them when I wear out what I got now.
03-27-2008, 10:41 PM
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Burning Brakes
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I've had the stock pads up until my last HPDE when I switched to the Hawk HPS (not HP+) pads. I had 6,200 miles on the stock pads with about 4 track and 3 autocross days on them. I had about 25% to 35% wear on the pads. Since I was getting more involved with track events, I thought the Hawk is next logical step. The HPS pads, front and back run anywhere from $228 to $260, depending on where you buy them....reasonable price to pay. I did two days at Roebling and wore out the left front so much (80%) I need to replace them. The stock Z06 pads run about $363 for the front, and the same for the back even though it has only 2/3 of the pads (8 vs 12). From discount suppliers, cost is down to around $500 to $580.
I run hard on the track but also use the car on the street. I haven't tried the HP+ yet since I was afraid it was too aggressive on the rotors and made noise like a wounded eagle. Those of you with experience, fill me in on which way to go. I'm not ready to change over to Brembo or Stop Tech. What pads do you recommend for combined use ? Also, which pads wear the best or last the longest based on your experiences ?
I run hard on the track but also use the car on the street. I haven't tried the HP+ yet since I was afraid it was too aggressive on the rotors and made noise like a wounded eagle. Those of you with experience, fill me in on which way to go. I'm not ready to change over to Brembo or Stop Tech. What pads do you recommend for combined use ? Also, which pads wear the best or last the longest based on your experiences ?
I like the Hawk DTC line of track pads, but they are unsuitable for the street. I will probably get about 6 track days from them. I have not found a pad that is satisfactory for combined use.
03-28-2008, 08:38 AM
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
i will say this time and time again you need to go to carbotech. there site is ctbrakes.com ph# 704-481-8554 ask for danny. they make some of the best pads around and are very rotor friendly. 
03-28-2008, 08:51 AM
#7
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But, in my experience, their track pads are no more suitable for the street than other brands I have tried. I have used the Carbotech XP12/10 combo, and, compared to Hawk DTC 70/60, I was better pleased with the Hawk. But among the acceptable track pads, I agree that Carbotech seems to be among the most rotor friendly, and the dust is easily cleaned.
03-28-2008, 09:09 AM
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
But, in my experience, their track pads are no more suitable for the street than other brands I have tried. I have used the Carbotech XP12/10 combo, and, compared to Hawk DTC 70/60, I was better pleased with the Hawk. But among the acceptable track pads, I agree that Carbotech seems to be among the most rotor friendly, and the dust is easily cleaned.
03-28-2008, 09:32 AM
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Burning Brakes
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That was not my perception. I thought the Hawks were better throughout the braking cycle. But, I thought they also required a little more attention, as they overpower the street tires more than the Carbotech, and ABS is easily engaged. I might try the 60 compound all around next time. I am not critical of Carbotech at all, and I have had great success with them in several cars. A lot of this is very subjective, and perspectives will vary, as do driving styles. I would not discourage anyone from trying Carbotech. It is a good product, and they are good folks.
03-28-2008, 10:51 AM
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St. Jude Donor '11,'13
That was not my perception. I thought the Hawks were better throughout the braking cycle. But, I thought they also required a little more attention, as they overpower the street tires more than the Carbotech, and ABS is easily engaged. I might try the 60 compound all around next time. I am not critical of Carbotech at all, and I have had great success with them in several cars. A lot of this is very subjective, and perspectives will vary, as do driving styles. I would not discourage anyone from trying Carbotech. It is a good product, and they are good folks.
03-28-2008, 01:13 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
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Lee Iacocca said, "there ain't no free lunches..". Track pads produce noise, dust, and rotor wear, but they stop like crazy. Street pads can be had with low dust, no noise, and negligible rotor wear, but with much reduced stopping power and/or fade-free performance. You can have either, but not both. Is it worth the extra 30 minutes to change pads for the increased performance? I think so.
03-28-2008, 01:45 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
Lee Iacocca said, "there ain't no free lunches..". Track pads produce noise, dust, and rotor wear, but they stop like crazy. Street pads can be had with low dust, no noise, and negligible rotor wear, but with much reduced stopping power and/or fade-free performance. You can have either, but not both. Is it worth the extra 30 minutes to change pads for the increased performance? I think so.
30 minutes to swap the pads? If so, it must be much easier than I thought. Heck, I think it would take me 10 minutes just to R&R 4 wheels.
03-28-2008, 01:52 PM
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Lee Iacocca said, "there ain't no free lunches..". Track pads produce noise, dust, and rotor wear, but they stop like crazy. Street pads can be had with low dust, no noise, and negligible rotor wear, but with much reduced stopping power and/or fade-free performance. You can have either, but not both. Is it worth the extra 30 minutes to change pads for the increased performance? I think so.
We already know that. I just want some pads that don't damage my wheels and are so so for the track. I do the HPDE's for fun and entertainment, I don't have to be the quickest. 
03-28-2008, 01:58 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
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Sorry, didn't mean to be redundant. It seems then, you have answered your question, OE pads. Just stay away from the low-dust ceramic street pads. As great as low dust may be for the street, they are unacceptable for track use.
03-28-2008, 02:03 PM
#16
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I've never timed it, but let me be more clear. I was talking about strictly replacing the pads, with the car already in place. I always have the car on stands anyway for the brake fluid flush. But yes, to get the car on stands, remove the wheels, and replace the pads, probably an hour. You will read many claims of folks doing it quicker, but they have slower watches.
03-28-2008, 02:04 PM
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again. OE pads probably my best way to go. I have done HPDE's on OE pads in the past and they got the job done, they just so expensive.
03-28-2008, 02:42 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
After discussing this subject, at length, with Allanlaw I've decided to go with stock pads. They don't generate damaging dust, they are quiet, they don't eat rotors, they last, and (most importantly) they work well for the track I run on which has only one threshold braking zone from 145 to 90 MPH.
I just bought 2 sets of OE front pads for $462 + S&H which I think is a great deal.
03-28-2008, 03:01 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
I've never timed it, but let me be more clear. I was talking about strictly replacing the pads, with the car already in place. I always have the car on stands anyway for the brake fluid flush. But yes, to get the car on stands, remove the wheels, and replace the pads, probably an hour. You will read many claims of folks doing it quicker, but they have slower watches.
"slower watches" I love it. Actually, I think 2 hours would be a more accurate estimate.
03-28-2008, 09:00 PM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
You guys are giving me the kind of input I was looking for. Hawks are good and linear, more so than stock but as one of you pointed, there aren't any free rides so there is always a trade off. Better high speed braking, more dust, less life............Better wear, dust is ?, and more linear braking takes a hit.
Question: are the Hawk HP+ useable on the street ? I know its a good track pad, but does it work on the street ? Someone mentioned Carbotech pads, how do they compare with the Hawk HPS and HP+ ?
Background: At Roebling, my top speed in the straight approaches 160 mph before hitting the brakes hard for turn 1, whereby my turn in speed is approx 70 mph. I'm scheduled to hit Sebring in early May and have been told by those who have run it to bring an extra set of pads, the course eats up brakes in a big way. Those of you who run HPDE on fast and hard tracks, what do you recommend ?
Subject: Changing pads....time to jack up car about 10 minutes...time to pull off four wheels....about 10 more minutes.......time to remove caliper from backing plate on each wheel, draw in the pistons (6 each side in front, 4 each side in the back, 10 minutes per wheel or 40 minutes without a break.....reset the fluid level in the master cyl and draw in the calipers, 10 more minutes.....remount the wheels including torquing by hand and lowering car from the stands, 15 more minutes. Add it up, I count 75 minutes. Stop to take a breather, pour down a soda, it comes out to about 1 1/2 hours. If you flush the brakes system, add 30 minutes with a power bleeder or speed bleeders.
Question: Those of you who run HPDE and drive like you stole the thing on a fast track, how many track days do you get out of a set of pads, and what pads are you using ?
Question: are the Hawk HP+ useable on the street ? I know its a good track pad, but does it work on the street ? Someone mentioned Carbotech pads, how do they compare with the Hawk HPS and HP+ ?
Background: At Roebling, my top speed in the straight approaches 160 mph before hitting the brakes hard for turn 1, whereby my turn in speed is approx 70 mph. I'm scheduled to hit Sebring in early May and have been told by those who have run it to bring an extra set of pads, the course eats up brakes in a big way. Those of you who run HPDE on fast and hard tracks, what do you recommend ?
Subject: Changing pads....time to jack up car about 10 minutes...time to pull off four wheels....about 10 more minutes.......time to remove caliper from backing plate on each wheel, draw in the pistons (6 each side in front, 4 each side in the back, 10 minutes per wheel or 40 minutes without a break.....reset the fluid level in the master cyl and draw in the calipers, 10 more minutes.....remount the wheels including torquing by hand and lowering car from the stands, 15 more minutes. Add it up, I count 75 minutes. Stop to take a breather, pour down a soda, it comes out to about 1 1/2 hours. If you flush the brakes system, add 30 minutes with a power bleeder or speed bleeders.
Question: Those of you who run HPDE and drive like you stole the thing on a fast track, how many track days do you get out of a set of pads, and what pads are you using ?