dfinke23

I agree, as I have used this trailer before and the nose does scrape without the use of race ramps, and you have to climb out the window.

andy82

That is awesome!

cream28

Great replies!!! I have noticed the following problems with both methods of securing the vehicle (via wheel or frame).

Using the wheel is great because the wheel will not get an closer to the frame like the frame will via the cars suspension. The problem with it is that the car bounces all over the place during transport.

Using the frame tie down method is the best, when done right. The problem is that the car will move up and down much farther during transport, than when you secure it. This can cause the tie downs to become unattached and if they are crossed, the car will go into the side of the trailer.

The best solution is to use the frame tie down method, but place a solid piece of wood block in the front and in the rear, just slightly shorter than the frame when rested. Now tie the car down and the car and trailer become one! I've been doing it this way for years - it takes longer, but trust me it's worth it!!

saplumr

I've hauled my lowered car on trips of 1500 miles in my enclosed trailer using the floor D-rings strapped front and rear to the A-arms and the car has never or cannot possibly move a fraction.

0C5stein

Re: #7 - an old Corvette Racer friend of mine, Larry Park, had a low trailer that he hauled his auto-x car on. He used to back his tow vehicle up some store bought ramps (you know the good old steel ones) and it would raise the front of the trailer and lower the back and for his setup, nullified the need for any ramps. I actually think that they took all of that into consideration when they built the trailer. It was simple, quick and safe.

vetracer

I have the solid camber plates and cross the straps so I doubt the alignment is at much risk. My straps are new and will take my chances with them crossed rather than put more strain on the suspension by running them straight out to the D-rings.

It would be difficult I would think to use the T-inserts in an enclosed trailer. There isn't much room to get at the side of the car, although the photos above show that it can be done.

I winch my car in backwards with straps coming off the lower control arms to a single point where I hook the cable to it. I use stepped double 2x6 ramps to keep the splitter from touching. I crank up the tounge a little with it attached to the truck to keep it from high centering.

Once the car is in I pull it tight against two tire chocks behind the rear wheels. If I make a panic stop these will absorb the load. Then I lightly tie the car down using straps with a D-ring sewn into the strap so they loop around the control arm. There's no need to overtighten them. AFTER the straps are tight I set the parking brake.

One thing I noticed some people don't do is lock down the ratchet handle when they are done. Although I can see how you could get away with it, I would never leave it open.

The only problem I've ever had in 10 years of doing this is the time or two that I forgot to put the car in nuetral after hooking it up and starting to winch it in. I leave the car in gear to keep it from possibly rolling away, but if you forget to take it out of gear it could be VERY bad on your drivetrain or rip the winch out...

mark47

If you haven't put any money down, I have a Featherlight Aluminum Trailer for sale right now. It's an 18 footer with rock guard and removable fenders and custom wheels. I trailer my 06 Z06 on it all the time with no problems. I am selling it for $4000.00. I am looking to step up to a fully enclosed trailer. I do have a picture of it hooked up to my motorhome but I haven't mastered putting pics on the Forum. I could send it to an email addy if your are interested.

Mark

mark47

Finally figured out how to post pics.

USA1C5

I just got a Car Hauler and will be using it for the first time in about a week (9/27) for a HPDE at VIR on 9/28-29. All this info on this thread is very helpful because I have never hauled a car before.

Any and all info on this topic is very useful to me. I think I have everything I need. T-hooks, straps etc. I realize it is best to have trailer hooked up to tow vehicle but could a trailer be loaded when not hooked to tow vehicle if one was to put jack stands under the rear of trailer to keep the tongue end from lifting into the air?

By the way, there is still plenty of room at the HPDE @ VIR on 9/28-29 put on by 10/10ths if anyone is interested. Looks like lots of track time. Check out http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/page/page/5236308.htm if interested.

saplumr

I would never attempt to load a car into or on a trailer without the trailer attached to a tow vehicle. The trailer will move back and forth while loading. To many bad things can happen.

USA1C5

Thanks, that's what I thought. I have never seen anyone attempt that. Just thought I would throw it out there for comment.

USA1C5

And another question..............

Should everything in the trailer (enclosed) be secured somehow? Don't everything in the trailer like in the back of a pickup tend to migrate toward the front? If something was placed in front loose wouldn't it more than likely stay in the front? Just asking, I'm trailering in about 9 days for the first time and trying to learn all I can about it. If you don't ask you want know unless you try and sometimes thats the hard way to learn.

urslooow

always secure everything on the trailer. period. it could fall off or migrate and hit ur car!

jlutherva

That's a good deal! I would buy it if I were closer.

Jim

94boosted

Is my trailer that much higher? There was no way I was getting my car onto the trailer without both a ramp extension and blocks under the rear tires of the truck just to get a shallow enough angle to get the car on.





And once I finally did get the car onto the trailer the door wouldn't open so I figured I'd just screw a 12"x12" by 1/2" thick sheet of plywood to the trailer deck under each tire. Is there a reason why that wouldn't work?

And another question for those that have a trailer without D-Rings where do you hook the tow straps to? I've got the T-Hook's to attach to frame but no idea where to attach the other end.

LMB-Z

Use the trailer jack to jack the front of the trailer up. Make sure the truck tires are still on the ground though. Put a piece of wood under the jack, then jack up. It makes the angle of the rear of the trailer lower to the ground. You still may have to use a ramp, but it won't be near as steep.

The rings on the sides of the trailer is where I would run the straps through. Put the strap completely through, make a loop, the hook the end of the strap on the ring. After you do it a couple of times, you will figure it out.

94boosted

I thought of that but it seemed like it would be a lot of load on the jack which is why I built the little ramps for under the rear truck tires.

Not sure how I would loop it with these https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1571927467, I ordered those based on the recommendation of others on this forum.

What's wrong with simply screwing a 12"x12"x1/2"thk piece of plywood to the trailer deck right under the car tires. My door looks like another 1/4" and it would be able to open.

AzMotorhead

Thats what I've done to my trailers. Screwed 2x12's to the floor. Single plank the full length, then stack a 2' plank at the front to raise the nose of the car. You can then screw a 2x4 at the forward stop to use as a chock.