[Z06] black clutch fluid
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
black clutch fluid
i have read Rangers posts about keeping the clutch fluid clean so when my 06 Z06 was at the dealership for the shifter update i asked them to service the clutch and brake fluids.
after driving about 80 miles, with absolutely no aggression, never over 4000 rpm, on high way in 5th etc i decided to look at the clutch fluid. it was very dark. not black but still very dark brown.
when i called the service advisor he says that is normal because the fluid is picking up stuff left in the seals etc........
i dont buy it....... it shouldnt change to mud after 80 miles of lady driving.
am i wrong?
after driving about 80 miles, with absolutely no aggression, never over 4000 rpm, on high way in 5th etc i decided to look at the clutch fluid. it was very dark. not black but still very dark brown.
when i called the service advisor he says that is normal because the fluid is picking up stuff left in the seals etc........
i dont buy it....... it shouldnt change to mud after 80 miles of lady driving.
am i wrong?
#2
Race Director
I suspect they didnt touch it. There is no Ranger supplement to the service manual. But there should be.
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2008
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Same thing happen to me (08 Z06)... I flushed out my clutch fluid with DOT4, and made it from Dark Brown to Clear... I would suction out the blown fluid, fill it with clear DOT 4, then pump the clutch. I would over an over until the fill canister was ALL clear... After driving it for a while, it just turns brown... Who knows...?
#4
Racer
I picked up a turkey baster, a large glass bottle of perrier, and a some Dot 4 fluid. I suck the fluid up with the baster and then put it in my fancy bottled water bottle.
From what I understand this process takes some time to clear out all the old fluid. The alternative is to drain the fluid from the bottom which is considerably more expensive. I can report that my clutch is much better responding after doing this. Prior to changing any of the fluid the pedal stuck to the floor once after some real stop and go traffic and some showing off. Of course, I have a cam + headers so my car throws off alot of heat and probablly burned the fluid.
From what I understand this process takes some time to clear out all the old fluid. The alternative is to drain the fluid from the bottom which is considerably more expensive. I can report that my clutch is much better responding after doing this. Prior to changing any of the fluid the pedal stuck to the floor once after some real stop and go traffic and some showing off. Of course, I have a cam + headers so my car throws off alot of heat and probablly burned the fluid.
#6
Le Mans Master
I change my clutch fluid every few months or before any dragstrip use... Well the track is 14 miles from my house and the fluid is much darker after just those 14 miles!!!!!
#8
Le Mans Master
Do to the fluid being highly hydroscopic you now have efficently contaminated the entire clutch circuit. If you read the service manual and specs on the fluid you will see that under no circumstances do you expose the liquid to the atmosphere. Dark is not bad there have been tests on this forum that showed no contamination in regard to color
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
i cant find my bill now but i am sure i was charged over $100 for this service plus the fluid........ so i am figuring it was a complete flush.
so i am to understand that black after 80 miles of nanny driving is to be expected after a clutch fluid change?
so i am to understand that black after 80 miles of nanny driving is to be expected after a clutch fluid change?
#10
Team Owner
Do to the fluid being highly hydroscopic you now have efficently contaminated the entire clutch circuit. If you read the service manual and specs on the fluid you will see that under no circumstances do you expose the liquid to the atmosphere. Dark is not bad there have been tests on this forum that showed no contamination in regard to color
DH
#12
Burning Brakes
#13
Melting Slicks
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Do to the fluid being highly hydroscopic you now have efficently contaminated the entire clutch circuit. If you read the service manual and specs on the fluid you will see that under no circumstances do you expose the liquid to the atmosphere. Dark is not bad there have been tests on this forum that showed no contamination in regard to color
The factory cap is open to the atmosphere though it's air bleed valve. There goes that one.
#14
Le Mans Master
It doesn't it's a pop off and is sealed, test it if you don't believe, it's been discussed at length already. Curious that non-hydraulic clutches stick to floor also.
Last edited by jimman; 04-27-2008 at 12:04 PM.
#15
Racer
Changing clutch fluid is akin to flushing brake fluid etc. As for being a sealed unit: yes. But opening the reservoir is not letting air into the system anymore then opening the top of the master, ps reservoir or even radiator. You are confusing opening the system itself which will let the air in. Having reservoirs accessible with notations such as "min" and "max" on them are because the fluid levels are meant to be adjusted, and, unless you have superhuman physics-bending skills you aren't going to add/remove fluid withouth, you know, taking the top off.
#16
Melting Slicks
Bob, the Friging Stealer charged you a $100.00 to change your clutch fluid?
Get yourself a turkey baster and some dot 4, this simple procedure doesn't take any more than 30 seconds to complete.
Get yourself a turkey baster and some dot 4, this simple procedure doesn't take any more than 30 seconds to complete.
#17
Melting Slicks
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huh? "hyrdolic" [sic.] or not, the C5, C6s, and Fbodies have a history of clutches sticking to the floor dating back to 1997. This too is well documented.
Changing clutch fluid is akin to flushing brake fluid etc. As for being a sealed unit: yes. But opening the reservoir is not letting air into the system anymore then opening the top of the master, ps reservoir or even radiator. You are confusing opening the system itself which will let the air in. Having reservoirs accessible with notations such as "min" and "max" on them are because the fluid levels are meant to be adjusted, and, unless you have superhuman physics-bending skills you aren't going to add/remove fluid withouth, you know, taking the top off.
Changing clutch fluid is akin to flushing brake fluid etc. As for being a sealed unit: yes. But opening the reservoir is not letting air into the system anymore then opening the top of the master, ps reservoir or even radiator. You are confusing opening the system itself which will let the air in. Having reservoirs accessible with notations such as "min" and "max" on them are because the fluid levels are meant to be adjusted, and, unless you have superhuman physics-bending skills you aren't going to add/remove fluid withouth, you know, taking the top off.
#19
Safety Car