[Z06] DIY - Diff Fluid Change *Z06 Specific*
05-12-2013, 11:12 PM
#61
Race Director
Make sure to check out the DIY sticky and be careful not to lose or break the retaining clip.
On my 09, the drain comes out horizontal to the ground, not vertically like shown in the DIY. Also, the fitting did not come all the way out, but out enough for the fluid to fully drain.
06-17-2013, 05:18 PM
#62
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I changed my rear diff fluid once already at 10K miles. ( I used M1 with Red Line Friction modifier). Now the car has 13XXX and the rear end clunking and chatter is back on C6 z06.
What's the verdict on the best fluid to use to avoid clunking and chatter. I dont care about price so as long as it works!
I've done some research but looking for people who have opinions based on experience with clunking and chatter recently.
What's the verdict on the best fluid to use to avoid clunking and chatter. I dont care about price so as long as it works!
I've done some research but looking for people who have opinions based on experience with clunking and chatter recently.
06-17-2013, 05:25 PM
#63
Race Director
I changed my rear diff fluid once already at 10K miles. ( I used M1 with Red Line Friction modifier). Now the car has 13XXX and the rear end clunking and chatter is back on C6 z06.
What's the verdict on the best fluid to use to avoid clunking and chatter. I dont care about price so as long as it works!
I've done some research but looking for people who have opinions based on experience with clunking and chatter recently.
What's the verdict on the best fluid to use to avoid clunking and chatter. I dont care about price so as long as it works!
I've done some research but looking for people who have opinions based on experience with clunking and chatter recently.
Did you do the tight slow figure 8 turns in a parking lot to work the fluid into the dif clutches? If not, try it now and see if that helps.
06-17-2013, 05:42 PM
#64
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I used the factory fluid that has the modifier already in it. Changed the fluid at about 14K, now at 29K with no issues but will change it and the tranny fluid again at 30K (some HPDE's).
Did you do the tight slow figure 8 turns in a parking lot to work the fluid into the dif clutches? If not, try it now and see if that helps.
Did you do the tight slow figure 8 turns in a parking lot to work the fluid into the dif clutches? If not, try it now and see if that helps.
When I originally changed the fluid at 10K I didn't use the friction modifier only the Mobil 1. (PS I changed the fluid at 10K because I was experiencing chatter at low speed turns).
I tried to do some tight turns but the issue goes away once I drive the car after 10-15 minutes. I then added the friction modifier about a week later and all of the chatter and clunking stopped. There would be the ever so slightest when I started the car up and pulled out of the driveway for the first time though. I chalked this up as normal.
Now that the fluid has some miles it's beginning to be a lot worse when i first drive the car for the day getting out of the driveway, down the block, and onto the local roads for the first 10-15 minutes. It's actually a bit worse then how it was on the stock fluid.
The grinding is a lot louder and clunky (if that makes any sense).
I literally try to avoid turns until the fluid can work it's way back into the clutch packs appropriately and the sound eventually diminishes back to normal. I feel however this is not reasonable amount of chatter even for a so called "race car for the street" as many people call it.
Sorry for the rant...I might try and go back to OEM fluid just to avoid any future head aches if that seems to be the best option.
06-17-2013, 08:07 PM
#65
Race Director
I did try that when I initially did the fluid... if I did it now I dont think it would do anything but it's worth a shot if you genuinely believe it might work.
When I originally changed the fluid at 10K I didn't use the friction modifier only the Mobil 1. (PS I changed the fluid at 10K because I was experiencing chatter at low speed turns).
I tried to do some tight turns but the issue goes away once I drive the car after 10-15 minutes. I then added the friction modifier about a week later and all of the chatter and clunking stopped. There would be the ever so slightest when I started the car up and pulled out of the driveway for the first time though. I chalked this up as normal.
Now that the fluid has some miles it's beginning to be a lot worse when i first drive the car for the day getting out of the driveway, down the block, and onto the local roads for the first 10-15 minutes. It's actually a bit worse then how it was on the stock fluid.
The grinding is a lot louder and clunky (if that makes any sense).
I literally try to avoid turns until the fluid can work it's way back into the clutch packs appropriately and the sound eventually diminishes back to normal. I feel however this is not reasonable amount of chatter even for a so called "race car for the street" as many people call it.
Sorry for the rant...I might try and go back to OEM fluid just to avoid any future head aches if that seems to be the best option.
When I originally changed the fluid at 10K I didn't use the friction modifier only the Mobil 1. (PS I changed the fluid at 10K because I was experiencing chatter at low speed turns).
I tried to do some tight turns but the issue goes away once I drive the car after 10-15 minutes. I then added the friction modifier about a week later and all of the chatter and clunking stopped. There would be the ever so slightest when I started the car up and pulled out of the driveway for the first time though. I chalked this up as normal.
Now that the fluid has some miles it's beginning to be a lot worse when i first drive the car for the day getting out of the driveway, down the block, and onto the local roads for the first 10-15 minutes. It's actually a bit worse then how it was on the stock fluid.
The grinding is a lot louder and clunky (if that makes any sense).
I literally try to avoid turns until the fluid can work it's way back into the clutch packs appropriately and the sound eventually diminishes back to normal. I feel however this is not reasonable amount of chatter even for a so called "race car for the street" as many people call it.
Sorry for the rant...I might try and go back to OEM fluid just to avoid any future head aches if that seems to be the best option.
. I will say that I was not having any dif issues when I changed the factory fill fluid, just that I regularly do more fluid maintenance on all my cars than the factory manuals indicate.
01-04-2014, 12:34 PM
#66
Pro
DIY- Diff Fluid Change
First, Great write-up. I just have a few questions.
First, when you mention "CCW-13", I'm not sure what that means. Is that a custom wheel? Will my stock ZR1 OEM Wheels/Tires be okay on a lift without rubbing the control arm?
Second, I know you and other say 3 quarts is all that is required and so does the Clutch Chatter TSB mention that is all that is required for the Z06, but my 08 owners manual says the capacity of the Z06 transmission is 4.5 quarts. Does this mean that not all the fluid is drained when doing this procedure.
Thanks in advance
First, when you mention "CCW-13", I'm not sure what that means. Is that a custom wheel? Will my stock ZR1 OEM Wheels/Tires be okay on a lift without rubbing the control arm?
Second, I know you and other say 3 quarts is all that is required and so does the Clutch Chatter TSB mention that is all that is required for the Z06, but my 08 owners manual says the capacity of the Z06 transmission is 4.5 quarts. Does this mean that not all the fluid is drained when doing this procedure.
Thanks in advance
This is a very easy do-it-yourself project... it took me less than an hour. The “quick-disconnect” design GM came up with for the differential cooler line works great. 
DIY - Transmission Fluid Change is HERE
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.
Tools
* 3/8” Wrench
* 10mm Hex Socket (3/8” Hex will work also)
* Small Flat Blade Screwdriver
* Oil Drain
* Suitable Pump / Transfer Tube
* 3 Quarts Diff Fluid (p/n 88862624 for the GM fluid – NO additive required for this fluid)
* 1 Diff Cooler Line - Retaining Clip (p/n 24205103). Note: The Service Manual says to use a new Retaining Clip. Most people reuse theirs. However there was a clip failure HERE. So either replace the clip or make sure it is not deformed and fully seated.
Step 1) Raise Car
Car must be level once raised to get an accurate fluid level reading.
Step 2) Locate Diff Fill and Drain Plugs
Under the car:
Zoomed in:
Step 3) Open Fill Plug
I’m a big believer in opening the fill plug, before dumping the fluid out
Place Oil Drain under Fill Plug
Insert 10mm (or 3/8”) Hex Socket and open:
A little fluid may dribble out:
Step 4) Remove Retaining Clip from Drain Plug / Cooler Line
There is a retaining click which secures the Drain Plug; it must be removed.
Retaining Clip and Fill Plug:
Insert Small flat blade screwdriver at the ‘tip’ of the clip and pry/move it toward the rear of the car. It’s not a high tension clip; it doesn’t take a lot of force to remove. Working from the left (drivers) side of the car was easier for me.
Clip Position:
Screwdriver in place:
Clip partially out:
Step 5) Open Drain Plug / Cooler Line
Place Oil Drain under Drain Plug
Pull the Drain Plug straight down… wiggle slightly side-to-side as needed. You can use your fingers. It takes a little of force, but not too much. And move Drain Plug to the side.
Drain Plug partially out:
…and the money shot:
Step 6) Close Drain Plug / Cooler Line
Once fluid is drained, push Drain Plug straight up into place. You should hear or feel a SNAP.
Step 7) Replace Retaining Clip
* Service Manual says to use a new Retaining Clip.* Most people reuse theirs. However there was a clip failure HERE. So either replace the clip or make sure it is not deformed and fully seated.
Push the Clip back into place (push toward front of car). The sides and center of the Clip should click back into place.
With clip in place, pull down on Drain Plug… it should not pull out.
Step 8) Fill Diff with Fluid
Insert Pump / Transfer Tube into fill port and add fluid until it starts to dribble out, and then stops dribbling.
Mine took ~2.5 quarts.
Pump in place:
Overflow draining out:
Step 9) Close Fill Plug
Torque to 26 lb-ft (35 N*M)
Step 10) “Drive car” while lifted
Now for the scary part of this procedure… the car rocks side-to-side pretty good due to the shake of the motor.
Since I had to add more fluid after this step (step 11); I’m going to say this step is important.
* From Service Manual: Raise the vehicle so the wheels are about a foot off the floor. Make sure the wheels can spin freely without obstruction from the hoist or any nearby items. Start the vehicle and put the transmission in second gear. Slowly accelerate to 10 mph and hold this speed for one minute. *
I suppose an alternative would be to lower the car and go for a short, slow test drive.
Make sure rotors are secure against the hub. My rotors don’t sit perfectly vertical without the wheels on… and they made a horrible grinding noise against the brake pads. You can put the rear wheels back on... but note that CCW 13" will rub the control arms at full droop!
Step 11) Check Fluid Level
* From Service Manual: Differential fluid level…should be even with the bottom of the fill plug hole to no lower than 6mm (0.25 in) below the opening. *
I couldn’t figure out how to check if the level was within 6mm (0.25 in)… I don’t have very big hands, and I still couldn’t fit my hand to check the level with a finger. So I just started adding more fluid.
Open Fill plug.
Add fluid until it starts to dribble out, and then stops dribbling. Mine took an additional ~4 ounces.
Close Fill plug.
Torque to 26 lb-ft (35 N*M)
Step 12) Lower Car and go for a Test Drive
* From the TSB to cure a noisy diff: Once the differential fluid has been changed, the vehicle must be driven in 8-10 tight figure eight maneuvers to heat the fluid and allow the fluid to be worked into the clutch plates. *
That’s it… enjoy your new Diff fluid!
DIY - Transmission Fluid Change is HERE
*** Standard disclaimers apply. I assume no responsibility for any damage. Please be careful - the consequences of a mistake or improper install could be disastrous ***
Pics below are from a 2007 Z06, and a 2007 Service Manual was used.
Tools
* 3/8” Wrench
* 10mm Hex Socket (3/8” Hex will work also)
* Small Flat Blade Screwdriver
* Oil Drain
* Suitable Pump / Transfer Tube
* 3 Quarts Diff Fluid (p/n 88862624 for the GM fluid – NO additive required for this fluid)
* 1 Diff Cooler Line - Retaining Clip (p/n 24205103). Note: The Service Manual says to use a new Retaining Clip. Most people reuse theirs. However there was a clip failure HERE. So either replace the clip or make sure it is not deformed and fully seated.
Step 1) Raise Car
Car must be level once raised to get an accurate fluid level reading.
Step 2) Locate Diff Fill and Drain Plugs
Under the car:
Zoomed in:
Step 3) Open Fill Plug
I’m a big believer in opening the fill plug, before dumping the fluid out
Place Oil Drain under Fill Plug
Insert 10mm (or 3/8”) Hex Socket and open:
A little fluid may dribble out:
Step 4) Remove Retaining Clip from Drain Plug / Cooler Line
There is a retaining click which secures the Drain Plug; it must be removed.
Retaining Clip and Fill Plug:
Insert Small flat blade screwdriver at the ‘tip’ of the clip and pry/move it toward the rear of the car. It’s not a high tension clip; it doesn’t take a lot of force to remove. Working from the left (drivers) side of the car was easier for me.
Clip Position:
Screwdriver in place:
Clip partially out:
Step 5) Open Drain Plug / Cooler Line
Place Oil Drain under Drain Plug
Pull the Drain Plug straight down… wiggle slightly side-to-side as needed. You can use your fingers. It takes a little of force, but not too much. And move Drain Plug to the side.
Drain Plug partially out:
…and the money shot:
Step 6) Close Drain Plug / Cooler Line
Once fluid is drained, push Drain Plug straight up into place. You should hear or feel a SNAP.
Step 7) Replace Retaining Clip
* Service Manual says to use a new Retaining Clip.* Most people reuse theirs. However there was a clip failure HERE. So either replace the clip or make sure it is not deformed and fully seated.
Push the Clip back into place (push toward front of car). The sides and center of the Clip should click back into place.
With clip in place, pull down on Drain Plug… it should not pull out.
Step 8) Fill Diff with Fluid
Insert Pump / Transfer Tube into fill port and add fluid until it starts to dribble out, and then stops dribbling.
Mine took ~2.5 quarts.
Pump in place:
Overflow draining out:
Step 9) Close Fill Plug
Torque to 26 lb-ft (35 N*M)
Step 10) “Drive car” while lifted
Now for the scary part of this procedure… the car rocks side-to-side pretty good due to the shake of the motor.
Since I had to add more fluid after this step (step 11); I’m going to say this step is important.
* From Service Manual: Raise the vehicle so the wheels are about a foot off the floor. Make sure the wheels can spin freely without obstruction from the hoist or any nearby items. Start the vehicle and put the transmission in second gear. Slowly accelerate to 10 mph and hold this speed for one minute. *
I suppose an alternative would be to lower the car and go for a short, slow test drive.
Make sure rotors are secure against the hub. My rotors don’t sit perfectly vertical without the wheels on… and they made a horrible grinding noise against the brake pads. You can put the rear wheels back on... but note that CCW 13" will rub the control arms at full droop!
Step 11) Check Fluid Level
* From Service Manual: Differential fluid level…should be even with the bottom of the fill plug hole to no lower than 6mm (0.25 in) below the opening. *
I couldn’t figure out how to check if the level was within 6mm (0.25 in)… I don’t have very big hands, and I still couldn’t fit my hand to check the level with a finger. So I just started adding more fluid.
Open Fill plug.
Add fluid until it starts to dribble out, and then stops dribbling. Mine took an additional ~4 ounces.
Close Fill plug.
Torque to 26 lb-ft (35 N*M)
Step 12) Lower Car and go for a Test Drive
* From the TSB to cure a noisy diff: Once the differential fluid has been changed, the vehicle must be driven in 8-10 tight figure eight maneuvers to heat the fluid and allow the fluid to be worked into the clutch plates. *
That’s it… enjoy your new Diff fluid!
01-04-2014, 12:39 PM
#67
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First, Great write-up. I just have a few questions.
First, when you mention "CCW-13", I'm not sure what that means. Is that a custom wheel? Will my stock ZR1 OEM Wheels/Tires be okay on a lift without rubbing the control arm?
Second, I know you and other say 3 quarts is all that is required and so does the Clutch Chatter TSB mention that is all that is required for the Z06, but my 08 owners manual says the capacity of the Z06 transmission is 4.5 quarts. Does this mean that not all the fluid is drained when doing this procedure.
Thanks in advance
First, when you mention "CCW-13", I'm not sure what that means. Is that a custom wheel? Will my stock ZR1 OEM Wheels/Tires be okay on a lift without rubbing the control arm?
Second, I know you and other say 3 quarts is all that is required and so does the Clutch Chatter TSB mention that is all that is required for the Z06, but my 08 owners manual says the capacity of the Z06 transmission is 4.5 quarts. Does this mean that not all the fluid is drained when doing this procedure.
Thanks in advance
The transmission fluid thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1567838613
01-04-2014, 02:06 PM
#68
Pro
I;m not confused. The transmission in a C6 Z06 as well as C6 corvette is a transaxel, where the transmission and rear differential are combined.
I think your confusion stems from the fact that your are referring to transmission fluid and this thread is about rear differential fluid.
The transmission fluid thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1567838613
The transmission fluid thread is here: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...post1567838613
01-04-2014, 02:15 PM
#69
Pro
Sorry about that. your right. I was confusing the rear diff from the trans.
However, my first question is still valid.
Thanks for the correction.
However, my first question is still valid.
Thanks for the correction.
01-04-2014, 02:23 PM
#70
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For the transmission fluid you would be following the transmission fluid guide which replaces approximately 4 Quarts.
The rear differential is 3 quarts.
Hope this helps.
01-04-2014, 02:42 PM
#71
Pro
01-05-2014, 12:59 AM
#72
Race Director
My 2009 Owner's Manual lists the transmission capacity at 4.5 quarts.
01-05-2014, 09:38 AM
#73
Premium Supporting Vendor
Pretty sure they are 13" CCW wheels that are being referred to given the context that they rub against the control arms at full droop. I have similar problems with my 11" CCWs on my C5 Z06 at full droop.
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AMSOIL Dealer (Forum Vendor)
AMSOIL Ordering Information (Retail sales using reference #1206638 benefit the forum.)
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AMSOIL Catalog
01-05-2014, 11:39 AM
#74
Burning Brakes
I have 13" CCW's and they will definitely rub the rear upper control arm at full droop.
01-24-2014, 09:51 AM
#75
Instructor
This has been an excellent thread covering the Z06 differential fluid change. Thanks to everyone. In my auto restoration shop (www.tgrestorations.com), we use a trick to keep track of the C Clips or Snap Clips that often spring across the shop and are so impossible to locate. Use a small piece of fishing line or sewing thread and tie one end on the clip being used. Tie the other end to part of the car. We use a spray can of quick drying paint to give some color to the clip. The sewing thread won't last that long but this trick will help everyone to never lose another one! The photo attached shows the infamous Z06 differential Snap Clip painted red.
02-03-2014, 03:18 PM
#76
Melting Slicks
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^ That is a fantastic tip that I just used to finish the project. I lost my clip yesterday (it flew away somewhere and was never found) and had to pick up another at the dealer. Another thing, the one I picked up was already painted blue haha I guess some Chevy Techs complained enough (or GM reads the forum) to get them to color the clip now.
Edit: also wanted to note that pushing the clip from the rear to front did the trick for me as well.
Edit: also wanted to note that pushing the clip from the rear to front did the trick for me as well.
Last edited by TheDingo; 02-03-2014 at 06:31 PM.
03-07-2014, 02:16 PM
#79
Race Director
W-Mart has a small hand pump that uses about 1/2" tubing that goes into the oil bottle (will fit the Redline bottle neck) and the other end goes in the dif. It is still a little messy but the pump only cost about $8 (guess from 2-3 years ago).
08-31-2014, 07:11 PM
#80
Great write up & great detail man!!! Only question I have is what kind of lift is that you are using? looks real handy and I'm past tired of moving around wood to drive up on to get a jack under my car haha